Audio-Sector discussion splitoff

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If you dont have these certified buy a company that does CSA yor going to be sued up the but. Id suggest before selling these or putting them on your site you might want to get these aproved. Or put a note on the site these are only for diy and owner must take there own risk.

I know a guy that just had his products tested and failed and was sued. Due to a house fire. I'd Hate to see you be sued over this. : O )

J'
 
Are you saying your design's are perfect and will never fail or hiccup ? I have had lots of things that needed fuses that shold have never blown. Ie a mouse on a computer or a keyboard or my remote for my tv ect ect lots of things they all blow at some point. unplugging something then pluging it back in causes a serge it might blow the fuse ect ect there are lots of reason's..

I think it would be wise for me any way or others to solder a fuse off the board and in some kinda of holder : O )
 
Peter Daniel said:
...... Do you really think I would made a commercial DAC without a fuse? Look closely and you'll see one ;)

Hi,
your fuse implementation doesn't look safe and practical.
Why not use an insulated version (with optional two pin socket)?

Regards,
Milan
 

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moamps said:


Hi,
your fuse implementation doesn't look safe and practical.
Why not use an insulated version (with optional two pin socket)?

Regards,
Milan



I agree. Peter you say that there is little room in the chassis but yet you use a opene ended fuse that could cause some kinda short. If Your idea's are so well thought out. then how come this one was not ?


Again this is not safe at all. CSA would walk all over this.
 
jleaman said:




I agree. Peter you say that there is little room in the chassis but yet you use a opene ended fuse that could cause some kinda short. If Your idea's are so well thought out. then how come this one was not ?


Again this is not safe at all. CSA would walk all over this.

Well Jason, in this case I will not be able to send you the board, sorry.
 
moamps said:


Hi,
your fuse implementation doesn't look safe and practical.
Why not use an insulated version (with optional two pin socket)?

Regards,
Milan

I need a fuse assembly that is not more than 1/4" high (above the board) and insulated in case of maximum height. Don't worry, I will find a proper one. The one in a picture is just for testing, it is not permanent instalation, although for my personal use I wouldn't care less what fuse is there.
 
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Joined 2002
Vikash said:
why all the fuss ?

Just maybe because safety of customers IS an issue in most countries ?

The PCB looks nice but when showing a pic like that one can expect comments. Certainly when a DIY kit is involved security should not be an issue that needs discussing. If the manufacturer had spent one minute soldering a proper fuseholder the discussion would have been about the most important parameter of the thing.

I am afraid provocation with comments like these:

Peter Daniel said:

And lastly, a properly designed device, shouldn't require fuse change in its lifetime, so why would you need a socket for?

will only heat up the fire and draw wrong attention.
 
jean-paul said:


Just maybe because safety of customers IS an issue in most countries ?

The PCB looks nice but when showing a pic like that one can expect comments. Certainly when a DIY kit is involved security should not be an issue that needs discussing. If the manufacturer had spent one minute soldering a proper fuseholder the discussion would have been about the most important parameter of the thing.

I am afraid provocation with comments like these:



will only heat up the fire and draw wrong attention.

Well, I never mentioned I will be offering that particular board as kit, did I? Actually this board was designed specifically for AudioZone DAC and I'm really hesitant to mix it with DIY market. That's why I still didn't post any info on my site. It seems like preocuppation with fuses is much more important that the parts of the DAC.

The board has also a scoring line, and two parts (PS and DAC section) can be separated. I'm pretty aware of implications and danger of selling AC powered board to end customer, that's why the best approach would probably be offering the board without AC section. AC section could available on special request, after signing release form.

As to the soldered fuse needing replacement, in all my years of using stereo equipment, I never had a single case when I had to replace fuse in source equipment. I changed countles fusses in power amps, but never in line sources. That was one other reason I've chosen soldering option.
 
Peter Daniel said:
Well, I never mentioned I will be offering that particular board as kit, did I? Actually this board was designed specifically for AudioZone DAC and I'm really hesitant to mix it with DIY market. That's why I still didn't post any info on my site. It seems like preocuppation with fuses is much more important that the parts of the DAC.
Peter, if you act like a pro I think it's your duty to do what you can when it comes to electrical safety and regulations. If you aren't so good in this, just ask because some things are pretty easy like creepage distance and usage of approved parts.

The electrical issue is not twice as important in 230 v countries, probably 3-4 times more important, the voltage is more lethal than 120 V.

The reason I point this out is not because I want to critize you, the opposite in fact.
 
Peter, you misunderstand. Creepage is between primary side and secondary side. You can touch anything metallic like the volume knob, the ground of a RCA jack, the tone arm, the push buttons of a CD player etc, not only the case.

I'll hope this was ment as joke and I think quite honestly that you shouldn't joke about safety issues. I can agree on that some things seems to be ridiculous but have you seen damages in electrical equipment you will also understand better. I have seen quite a bit when things have gone broken and note "approved" things. I can just imagine what could have happend if there have been more "unapproved" things out there.
 
peranders said:
Peter, you misunderstand. Creepage is between primary side and secondary side. You can touch anything metallic like the volume knob, the ground of a RCA jack, the tone arm, the push buttons of a CD player etc, not only the case.

I'll hope this was ment as joke and I think quite honestly that you shouldn't joke about safety issues. I can agree on that some things seems to be ridiculous but have you seen damages in electrical equipment you will also understand better. I have seen quite a bit when things have gone broken and note "approved" things. I can just imagine what could have happend if there have been more "unapproved" things out there.

It was not meant as a joke. With 3/4" wooden enclosure, there is no creepage issues, you are talking about.

For that matter, with 3/8 standoffs and appropriate fuse, there is not creepage issues even with a metal tubing.
 
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