Sonics-related controls should be grouped together, so the crossfeed switch should be next to the tone controls.
Power switch should be on the direct right or left, so you can turn it on or off in the dark, when drunk.
There should be lines moving to and around the control showing which switch turns of which controls, etc. Visual cues. (say 3 lines coming from bass, balance and treble and ending at "defeat", so you know what that switch does)
- keantoken
Power switch should be on the direct right or left, so you can turn it on or off in the dark, when drunk.
There should be lines moving to and around the control showing which switch turns of which controls, etc. Visual cues. (say 3 lines coming from bass, balance and treble and ending at "defeat", so you know what that switch does)
- keantoken
I would use a switched headphone jack and use it to power on or off the unit when the headphones are plugged in or unplugged. This encourages the user to put the phones away after use, instead of having them plugged in all the time.
My preference is to retain a power switch.....my phones are left plugged in and they store on a special jarah hanger just above my gear.
Balance should stay, to correct small recording errors and any asymmetry of response of the cans (and the listener!) as they age, and the crossfeed is a pot, not a simple switch.
I like the comment about being drunk, KT. If you wear headphones whilst drunk, you should be careful you don't strangle yourself on the cord!! Died pretty, anyone?
Gaetan, like the panel. We must think about dimensions. My feeling is that we should use a standard diecast Al box of dimension (W)221mm x (L)150mm x (D)49mm, or very close to it. The longest face should be used for controls; this is just less than 2" tall so has very low profile and some elegance. (Ratio of W to L is 1.47, close to the golden mean of 1.618). The various control on the front face can be pcb mounted (pots and switches) and this means that only the opposite face of the pcb need be secured inside the box. I'd suggest using the output devices - four sturdy TO220s, plastic insulated, which with their twelve leads trimmed short should very securely affix the pcb on the other side. The board would be around 160mm wide (along the controls face) by 125mm deep (depth from one side to the other inside the box. There are semicircular columns inside the box for the six securing screws; the pcb would need to fit inside these, or at the least have one large, near central slot for the board to fit flush against the side of the enclosure.
200 sqcms should be enough for all the internal parts, Nico? We should be able to accommodate components of height up to 35mm.
Done this way, there should be no need for ventilating slots.
That would mean the vertical front panel would have dimension of 221 x 49 millimetres.
Does this help?
Hugh
I like the comment about being drunk, KT. If you wear headphones whilst drunk, you should be careful you don't strangle yourself on the cord!! Died pretty, anyone?
Gaetan, like the panel. We must think about dimensions. My feeling is that we should use a standard diecast Al box of dimension (W)221mm x (L)150mm x (D)49mm, or very close to it. The longest face should be used for controls; this is just less than 2" tall so has very low profile and some elegance. (Ratio of W to L is 1.47, close to the golden mean of 1.618). The various control on the front face can be pcb mounted (pots and switches) and this means that only the opposite face of the pcb need be secured inside the box. I'd suggest using the output devices - four sturdy TO220s, plastic insulated, which with their twelve leads trimmed short should very securely affix the pcb on the other side. The board would be around 160mm wide (along the controls face) by 125mm deep (depth from one side to the other inside the box. There are semicircular columns inside the box for the six securing screws; the pcb would need to fit inside these, or at the least have one large, near central slot for the board to fit flush against the side of the enclosure.
200 sqcms should be enough for all the internal parts, Nico? We should be able to accommodate components of height up to 35mm.
Done this way, there should be no need for ventilating slots.
That would mean the vertical front panel would have dimension of 221 x 49 millimetres.
Does this help?
Hugh
Hello Hugh and all guy's
So is there a concensus in all the suggestions ?
Any suggestions that you would prefer Hugh ?
Here is the suggestions who was done, which one do we keep ? :
Switched headphone jack or power on or off switch --- Yes or No ?
The 10/120 on the back panel --- Yes or No ?
Volume control centre with switches and jack to the left and tone controls to the right --- Yes or No ?
Sonics-related controls should be grouped together, so the crossfeed switch should be next to the tone controls --- Yes or No ?
Power switch should be on the direct right or left --- Yes or No ?
There should be lines moving to and around the control showing which switch turns of which controls, etc. Visual cues. (say 3 lines coming from bass, balance and treble and ending at "defeat", so you know what that switch does) --- Yes or No ?
Thank
Bye
Gaetan
So is there a concensus in all the suggestions ?
Any suggestions that you would prefer Hugh ?
Here is the suggestions who was done, which one do we keep ? :
Switched headphone jack or power on or off switch --- Yes or No ?
The 10/120 on the back panel --- Yes or No ?
Volume control centre with switches and jack to the left and tone controls to the right --- Yes or No ?
Sonics-related controls should be grouped together, so the crossfeed switch should be next to the tone controls --- Yes or No ?
Power switch should be on the direct right or left --- Yes or No ?
There should be lines moving to and around the control showing which switch turns of which controls, etc. Visual cues. (say 3 lines coming from bass, balance and treble and ending at "defeat", so you know what that switch does) --- Yes or No ?
Thank
Bye
Gaetan
Hello Nico
OK
And I will do it with the vertical front panel of arround dimension of 221 x 49 millimetres, so it will look like Hugh suggested.
Bye
Gaetan
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I think it's very elegant, and masterfully set up. I too like the level control right at the center, but my golly it's going to be tricky to set up the layout with all controls on the board. Nico, you confident you can achieve this OK? (Of course I realise it's quite possible to implement, but it will take a lot of time and you will need exacty dimensions of all the parts).
BTW, I have thought carefully on the tone control issues. If we have a defeat switch, phase shift at the flat settings is not an issue, and if we use an inverting tone control, the conventional style, we can achieve double or triple the tone extension, no bad thing. So, I'm prepared to go with this as it will set a linear control at flat at precisely the midpoint, which is an important refinement.
Thanks for your email, hope you are back home, comfortable again,
Thank you Gaetan. It's terrific, and I really like it. This is coming along fast now, many thanks. BTW, Nico, can we do the crossfeed BEFORE the amp? It will use smaller caps, be a little cheaper, and will not impact on the Zout either.
The output jack might need duplication, for another coupler?
Cheers,
Hugh
BTW, I have thought carefully on the tone control issues. If we have a defeat switch, phase shift at the flat settings is not an issue, and if we use an inverting tone control, the conventional style, we can achieve double or triple the tone extension, no bad thing. So, I'm prepared to go with this as it will set a linear control at flat at precisely the midpoint, which is an important refinement.
Thanks for your email, hope you are back home, comfortable again,
Thank you Gaetan. It's terrific, and I really like it. This is coming along fast now, many thanks. BTW, Nico, can we do the crossfeed BEFORE the amp? It will use smaller caps, be a little cheaper, and will not impact on the Zout either.
The output jack might need duplication, for another coupler?
Cheers,
Hugh
I have used board mounted DPDT pushbutton switches like this:
Buy the button separate, a few different colours available:
Compact enough, easy to machine faceplate - just drill a hole.
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Buy the button separate, a few different colours available:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
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An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Compact enough, easy to machine faceplate - just drill a hole.