Same thing here; I used nylon screws, washers, standoffs, inside a metal enclosure. My main reason is my Tripath project was a car audio system, where I always isolate the chassis ground on every component (if you do this, don't forget the antenna ground) and then run everything for -12V power to a single point, but I could see from the design of the Tripath boards that it would be a good idea for a home component as well, and when I was testing/prototyping in the house I used nylon on an aluminum chassis.
You want to be sure your connectors (RCAs, binding posts, etc) are also isolated from the chassis. You can buy either kind.
Be forewarned, nylon hardware is more expensive than metal, though. You can often get them at hardware stores like Home Depot ... look in the bins where they sell all kinds of miscellaneous hardware ... although I get mine at an Electronics supply store.
Use #4-40 for the Helder boards.
You want to be sure your connectors (RCAs, binding posts, etc) are also isolated from the chassis. You can buy either kind.
Be forewarned, nylon hardware is more expensive than metal, though. You can often get them at hardware stores like Home Depot ... look in the bins where they sell all kinds of miscellaneous hardware ... although I get mine at an Electronics supply store.
Use #4-40 for the Helder boards.
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Oh boy... isolate all chassis stuff huh? Well that seals it. I am building up a custom wood case, I will use an internal divider for the psu and side vents for circulation... even going to make my own wooden volume knobs. Read this and it kind of makes sense to me...
Box Clever [English]
Another reason is that I live in a very remote place and the likelyhood of my getting all the pieces I need together in the time I have is pretty slim.
Box Clever [English]
Another reason is that I live in a very remote place and the likelyhood of my getting all the pieces I need together in the time I have is pretty slim.
Interesting article. I'm a firm believer in shielding, and for that you need metal.
However, that does not preclude good mechanical construction techniques, and perhaps application of dampening material to metal, nor does it eliminate the use of a wood enclosure.
It might be worthwhile at this point to mention that shielding effectiveness vs frequency is somewhat dependent on the thickness of the metal shield (there's a formula somewhere) so there's no fundamental reason to go flimsy (thin gauge) from an electronic design perspective.
Copper sheet can be expensive as metal suppliers are not often used to small volume orders, but hobby copper is available at reasonable prices for crafts, an example (there are others) is http://basiccopper.com/index.html
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Yes... shielding is definitely important. I think this will work for me as I will be using copper shielding between psu and board, on sides of case, and also although I will be using a wood case, I am building the amp to be housed inside an entertainment center (hiding all components for times I want to emulate home theater, no led's etc.) I feel that a semi shielded, wooden case built into a cabinet and separated from my tuner,and wifi music streamer feeding a DAC (all of which will be on other side of cabinet) should work ok, eh? Also... I live in a very remote area... we have no cell towers or HD radio, etc. (barely any TV!). I am hoping that this should suffice... what do you think?
Well, I think that every molecule on the planet is vibrating at multiple frequencies at multiple energy levels, because we are causing them to, everywhere on Earth via perhaps trillions of various radio emissions, and that nature herself throws a few more in there for good measure. Even assuming i were remote enough to be relatively immune to RF, every electrical thing in my home is transmitting it's own RF, not to mention light itself is potentially troublesome ... it's well known, for example, (IBM proved it decades ago) that UV light eventually will destroy the reliability of the memory chips in your computer. I know that by seemingly innocent decisions, like making a connecting wire one length instead of another, perfectly useful length, i may inadvertently created a great antenna for a frequency prevalent around me, or one which another device I use may be susceptible to.
So, rather than a potential battle with an invisible enemy, I shield.
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Arjen is waiting to hear they're ready to pick up from the assembler. Email Helderhifi and ask to be put on the email announcement list.
Concerning power supplies on the 2050 boards
I've exchanged a couple of emails with Arjen as I've been planning to build an amp with the new boards. The Tripath chips that run at 24-30v have been said to be more robust as you use higher voltage. Arjen says the board has a 12v relay with a resistor that can get hot with too high a voltage applied to the board. He says 30v is the maximum the board will handle (it's the maximum the chip is rated anyway) and 28v is perfect.
I've exchanged a couple of emails with Arjen as I've been planning to build an amp with the new boards. The Tripath chips that run at 24-30v have been said to be more robust as you use higher voltage. Arjen says the board has a 12v relay with a resistor that can get hot with too high a voltage applied to the board. He says 30v is the maximum the board will handle (it's the maximum the chip is rated anyway) and 28v is perfect.
Arjen,
are you working on a 2x50W TK2050 amp? Found this on taobao and it looks very similar to your TA2020 ans TA2024 boards and has your name on it. Or have I missed something on this forum?
are you working on a 2x50W TK2050 amp? Found this on taobao and it looks very similar to your TA2020 ans TA2024 boards and has your name on it. Or have I missed something on this forum?
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Hi there,
This board is a copy, a try to make a TK2050 amp that is 2X50W, ive bought it on taobao before for fun, but it didn't even work....
Ive also seen copy TA2022 around with my name on it...
Kind of weird really... seeing my name on stuff that others make!
Anyways, reminder, if it has my name on it, but im not the seller, then its not original, and not the same design.
This board is a copy, a try to make a TK2050 amp that is 2X50W, ive bought it on taobao before for fun, but it didn't even work....
Ive also seen copy TA2022 around with my name on it...
Kind of weird really... seeing my name on stuff that others make!
Anyways, reminder, if it has my name on it, but im not the seller, then its not original, and not the same design.
Is this a case of your build house trying to earn a buck with a test piece of yours, or an outright forgery using your name?
I'm glad to hear the TK2050 MKII will be available! I can finally get my HT 5 channel power amp built...
I have been very happy with my MkIII Ta2020 boards, and MkI tube pre. One even powers my Technics SB7000's amazingly well in the bedroom off my Ipod.
I'm glad to hear the TK2050 MKII will be available! I can finally get my HT 5 channel power amp built...
I have been very happy with my MkIII Ta2020 boards, and MkI tube pre. One even powers my Technics SB7000's amazingly well in the bedroom off my Ipod.
Re: Post 110 pics. Whaleman, great build. I have a similar chassis I would like to use for basically the same kind of system. What are the inside dimensions of your chassis? I know you said it was a bit tight, but is it adequate?
Thnaks.
Hello to all, I've noticed a great deal of discussion for the PS for these Helder boards and would like to suggest an alternative.
I just got a pair of the Helders, and long ago discovered that batteries work wonders with 2050 based amps (like on the Virtue amps, I have a Sensation, a Two.2 and a One). So I've got the Helders running from 24V/20A SLA, but for the best sound, am using a LFP Edition supply from RedWine Audio.
Having compared battery supplies against a really good linear power supply, a good switching supply and an HP (now Agilent) $8000 Lab grade variable voltage power supply with 30A current capability, I came away astounded. The SLA battery array ($150 incl. marine grade smart-charger) was way better than the linear and switcher, almost as good as the HP.
And the clincher was the $1K RedWine LFP supply which was CLEARLY better than all of the others including the $8K HP supply!
So I'd like to encourage others to try this, as a SLA battery supply with a really good charger is likely less expensive than a really good linear, and likely better sounding.
And if you can afford it try a good LFP supply, you can find 3.3V /20Amp cells with low source resistance, about 25miliOhm vs the less than 30mili-Ohms that are spec'd... so when you get 8 of 'em in series you end up with about 0.02 ohm source resistance. And it appears the LFP (LiFePo4) type batteries have much better HF source impedance as well. Probably why they sound so much better.
First impressions of the Helders is that they are not as dynamic or lively as the Virtues. However the Helder boards are still in "break-in", only about 20 hours so far. As I remember it, the Virtues needed a long break-in period, but they sounded a little more "alive" right out of the box. I'm betting the input coupling cap could be advantageously replaced on the Helder boards.
I'll follow up with more comments on the stock Helder's sound in about a week, after the've run in for about 100 to 150 Hours or so.
But, as is, with 20 hours, they certainly have a lot of drive and current capability, in the same league as the Virtues. And that's saying a LOT, as the Virtues are stunningly good in this department, especially when driven with batteries.
More later...
I just got a pair of the Helders, and long ago discovered that batteries work wonders with 2050 based amps (like on the Virtue amps, I have a Sensation, a Two.2 and a One). So I've got the Helders running from 24V/20A SLA, but for the best sound, am using a LFP Edition supply from RedWine Audio.
Having compared battery supplies against a really good linear power supply, a good switching supply and an HP (now Agilent) $8000 Lab grade variable voltage power supply with 30A current capability, I came away astounded. The SLA battery array ($150 incl. marine grade smart-charger) was way better than the linear and switcher, almost as good as the HP.
And the clincher was the $1K RedWine LFP supply which was CLEARLY better than all of the others including the $8K HP supply!
So I'd like to encourage others to try this, as a SLA battery supply with a really good charger is likely less expensive than a really good linear, and likely better sounding.
And if you can afford it try a good LFP supply, you can find 3.3V /20Amp cells with low source resistance, about 25miliOhm vs the less than 30mili-Ohms that are spec'd... so when you get 8 of 'em in series you end up with about 0.02 ohm source resistance. And it appears the LFP (LiFePo4) type batteries have much better HF source impedance as well. Probably why they sound so much better.
First impressions of the Helders is that they are not as dynamic or lively as the Virtues. However the Helder boards are still in "break-in", only about 20 hours so far. As I remember it, the Virtues needed a long break-in period, but they sounded a little more "alive" right out of the box. I'm betting the input coupling cap could be advantageously replaced on the Helder boards.
I'll follow up with more comments on the stock Helder's sound in about a week, after the've run in for about 100 to 150 Hours or so.
But, as is, with 20 hours, they certainly have a lot of drive and current capability, in the same league as the Virtues. And that's saying a LOT, as the Virtues are stunningly good in this department, especially when driven with batteries.
More later...
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