Would you do such a job without studying and practicing first?wanna see my awful work as Brain Surgeon?
Is it wrong to ask for it?
And what does this prove?Frankly, I do not have an archive of soldering jobs, so I can only dig in my stock and make a photo of some old prototype
My advice was quite sincere - without reliable assembly and soldering you may expect any kind of “unexplainable” failures. I am saying that as someone who spent 40+ years in electrical engineering and electronic design and who has assembled, soldered and tested about 4000 PCB boards. Just an advice.
That you are better than Joe Blow?
Who cares?
This is DIY as far as I know.
You better start a new thread offering professional advice how to best solder DIY kits, don't pollute the conversation here.
No, cause I don't think you are a good brain surgeon, or a comedian for that matter.well, proof is in da Pudding
if someone sez that soldering is awful, it isn't determining Solderer as person
wanna see my awful work as Brain Surgeon?
is it just my ZMEngrish?
anyway, I don't care
when I see awful soldering job, I don't have a problem to say so, and I'm not expecting Solderer getting that as personal characterization and insult
if contrary, well, not my problem
whenever I was prompted by someone to do better work, it just did benefit
anyway, I don't care
when I see awful soldering job, I don't have a problem to say so, and I'm not expecting Solderer getting that as personal characterization and insult
if contrary, well, not my problem
whenever I was prompted by someone to do better work, it just did benefit
in post 11916 i implement the ACA amp boards in a Apple G3.
here:
now the empty ACA housing (very small- just 60mm high) has to be a linear power supply with the given Trafo 160VA 18VAC one Winding with 8,88A.
CRC and caps what i got and have.
trafo- rectifier - CRC (on board, changeable) - output
CRC 2x12mF / 3x0,22R / 2x33mF
2x 22k Bleeder resistor and a green led
no load 24,61Volts
under load with 5 amps --> 20,80Volt
holly *%§"§ it is very small and compact..never did this before
chris
here:
now the empty ACA housing (very small- just 60mm high) has to be a linear power supply with the given Trafo 160VA 18VAC one Winding with 8,88A.
CRC and caps what i got and have.
trafo- rectifier - CRC (on board, changeable) - output
CRC 2x12mF / 3x0,22R / 2x33mF
2x 22k Bleeder resistor and a green led
no load 24,61Volts
under load with 5 amps --> 20,80Volt
holly *%§"§ it is very small and compact..never did this before
chris
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Hi, I'm looking for advice on a replacement switch for this kit. I understand that the original switch is rated: 6A @ 125 VAC, 3A @ 250 VAC. How important is it to keep to those values? Would a rated 3A @ 250 VAC/5A @ 125VAC work fine too? Sorry if this is a stupid question.
How can this be? I mean, is there an electrical explantation for a switch being rated like many Watts (Volt times Ampere) in AC, but very lowly in DC?rated for 6A @ 125VAC, 5A @ 250VAC, but only 0.1A @ 24VDC
Upon closer inspection it looks like 5/5/.1 . It does seem strange, but there it is. My only guess is that the switch relies on relatively light spring tension to make and break contact, and there is a greater propensity to arc/fuse with DC current than with AC. But a factor of 50 does seem extreme. Even with the 5A rating, I wouldn't be comfortable using this switch for mains voltage. I'm using ut to activate a 24V relay.
https://www.mouser.com/blog/which-switch-who-cares-if-its-ac-or-dcHow can this be? I mean, is there an electrical explantation for a switch being rated like many Watts (Volt times Ampere) in AC, but very lowly in DC?
Thanks to you…In the future, the next time you wonder whether the difference between the AC and DC rating on a switch really matters, you can positively say yes and you’ll know why!
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