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Amanero Isolator/Reclocker GB

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The plan is to interface the S03 to any transport and DAC without having to roll out adapter boards for just about every interface and connect in some sort of articulated way.

In fact there would have been no adapter board for BBB like the BBB-DSD if the I2S/DSD switching were done internally within the BBB hardware/software and of course this risk of possible damage to BBB when power is interrupted, requiring additional arrangements as you can see on the board with the uC watchdog/battery

e.g other hardware like Amanero, WaveIO, etc do not require interface boards and can be wired-in directly. So, actually, this was what I meant by direct connections, typical DIY setup :)
 
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Amanero with Najda DSP

Hi,
I am not an expert in digital technics. I therefore have a question to the specialists here: I am using the Amanero connected to a Najda DSP From WAF Audio. I would like to insert an isolator, but still don't know what would be the best to do and how connect it. I have read most of the postings here and got a little confused.
Help will be much appreciated
Cheers
Sigi
 
Hi,
I am not an expert in digital technics. I therefore have a question to the specialists here: I am using the Amanero connected to a Najda DSP From WAF Audio. I would like to insert an isolator, but still don't know what would be the best to do and how connect it. I have read most of the postings here and got a little confused.
Help will be much appreciated
Cheers
Sigi

Hi Sigi,
Although the basic concepts can be applied to the Nadja DSP a more specialized arrangement is needed to bring out the best - a little beyond the scope of this project. Please contact me for further information.
 
Acko was kind enough to supply a file that allowed me to create a solder paste stencil to reflow my own S03 board. I built an arduino controlled reflow oven for another project and I try to use it when I can just because. Worked awesome for the S03! No flux to clean up and perfect joints at the push of a button. I misplaced a couple of potato chips and ufl connectors in my storage area, so I will need to do a little hand soldering after all.

BK

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.


An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
 
Looks good. How did you create the stencil ?

Stencil is laser scribed into polyimide by OSH Stencils for small change!

This is the result of the solder paste application - the grey is the paste over the gold pads:

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.


And this shows the stencil alongside the reflowed board:

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
 
Acko was kind enough to supply a file that allowed me to create a solder paste stencil to reflow my own S03 board. I built an arduino controlled reflow oven for another project and I try to use it when I can just because. Worked awesome for the S03! No flux to clean up and perfect joints at the push of a button. I misplaced a couple of potato chips and ufl connectors in my storage area, so I will need to do a little hand soldering after all.

BK

Very impressive! Didn't think that a DIY solution will produce such professional looking results similar to that done on equipment costing thousands of dollars. Well done and thanks for sharing :cheers:
 
Today I installed into my DAC the BBB/SO3 interface board that arrived from Acko yesterday. I installed the interface board vertically on the BBB header to keep connections short; connections to the SO3 are via 10cm ufl cables. A picture is below.

It worked first time (so far). I've played PCM music so far. Reassuringly, the little green LED on the board lights up when I play 48KHz family data and is unlit with 44.1KHz family data; it implies the sample rates are being correctly identified so the correct clock on the SO2 is being used.

You can see I've wired up a momentary action switch and this has worked perfectly at shutting down the BBB.

Initially I hooked up the LiPo battery but uncovered an undesirable consequence; with the battery installed and, presumably, needing a good charge there was a significantly higher current load on the linear regulator I use to power the BBB and that was causing the R in the CRC filter of the supply to get very hot. Without the battery (but including the interface board) I measured a load of just under 400mA but with the battery it was almost 800mA. I believe the load will drop considerably when the battery charging switches to trickle charging but I decided to remove the battery and charge it separately then reinstall when fully charged.

The next thing to test will be DSD playback but first I have to check the required configuration and make any necessary edits to the Botic config files. I did try a DSD file but the DSD led didn't light up so presumably it wasn't correctly identified/processed.

BTW, an update to the Botic distro to V4 is now available;

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/twisted-pear/258254-support-botic-linux-driver-71.html#post4309092

Anyway, here's the picture and I'll post another update when I have something to report.

Ray

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
 
Thanks for the report!

Today I installed into my DAC the BBB/SO3 interface board ....

It worked first time (so far). I've played PCM music so far. Reassuringly, the little green LED on the board lights up when I play 48KHz family data and is unlit with 44.1KHz family data; it implies the sample rates are being correctly identified so the correct clock on the SO2 is being used.

The next thing to test will be DSD playback but first I have to check the required configuration and make any necessary edits to the Botic config files. I did try a DSD file but the DSD led didn't light up so presumably it wasn't correctly identified/processed.

DSD led did light up when I tested with the sample file that came with Botic/ympd. Please check again.

You can see I've wired up a momentary action switch and this has worked perfectly at shutting down the BBB.
You should get similar action if mains power is lost (with battery connected)


Initially I hooked up the LiPo battery but uncovered an undesirable consequence; with the battery installed and, presumably, needing a good charge there was a significantly higher current load on the linear regulator I use to power the BBB and that was causing the R in the CRC filter of the supply to get very hot. Without the battery (but including the interface board) I measured a load of just under 400mA but with the battery it was almost 800mA. I believe the load will drop considerably when the battery charging switches to trickle charging but I decided to remove the battery and charge it separately then reinstall when fully charged.
Cannot avoid this as this is how battery charge requirements are. The load current will drop below 300mA when fully charged but even then the next time you power up the charge current goes up momentarily to 800mA before dropping back. PSU capacity needs to match accordingly.
 
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Status
This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.