Aleph J illustrated build guide

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RainfallSky

RainfallSky

Member
Joined 2015
I want to build Aleph J but can't right now so I make a BOM for future build with various components consideration.
This search brings me meditative form of relaxation.. :D

DiyAudio BOM revision D suggest Cornell Dubilier Silver Mica capacitor series CD15 for C5.
Aleph J PCB lead space for C5 is 5mm.

This cap in revision D BOM:
Cornell Dubilier - CDE CD15CD050DO3F (Mica 5pF 500V +/-0.5pF 11.4x4.8mm Lead Space 5.9mm Copper-clad steel lead)
https://mouser.com/ProductDetail/CD15CD050DO3F

Might be beter fit series CDA15:
Cornell Dubilier - CDE CDA15CD050DO3 (Mica 5pF 500V +/-0.5pF 10.9x3.6mm Lead Space 5.1mm Copper lead)
https://mouser.com/ProductDetail/CDA15CD050DO3


Wire for jumpers:

Vishay / Dale DB4U0000000000D500 (Tin coated copper wire 0.8x53mm)
https://mouser.com/ProductDetail/DB4U0000000000D500

or

KOA Speer JL8CT52R (Tin coated copper wire 0.8x64mm)
https://mouser.com/ProductDetail/JL8CT52R

Or this one if you want a bit of luxury :king:

Amtrans OFC gold plated wire, 0.9mm dia, bare wire - 1m
Amtrans OFC gold plated wire, 0.9mm dia, bare wire | Hifi Collective
 
2 picoDumbs

2 picoDumbs

Member
Joined 2013
RainfallSky said:
DiyAudio BOM revision D suggest Cornell Dubilier Silver Mica capacitor series CD15 for C5.
Aleph J PCB lead space for C5 is 5mm.

This cap in revision D BOM:
Cornell Dubilier - CDE CD15CD050DO3F (Mica 5pF 500V +/-0.5pF 11.4x4.8mm Lead Space 5.9mm Copper-clad steel lead)
CD15CD050DO3F Cornell Dubilier - CDE | Mouser

Might be beter fit series CDA15:
Cornell Dubilier - CDE CDA15CD050DO3 (Mica 5pF 500V +/-0.5pF 10.9x3.6mm Lead Space 5.1mm Copper lead)
CDA15CD050DO3 Cornell Dubilier - CDE | Mouser
Click to expand...

I accidently purchase the steel lead parts, they are now sitting in my parts bin never to be used.

Thanks for finding some copper lead parts.

For permanent metal links/jumpers I just purchase 20AWG - 22 AWG pure solid silver wire. For switchable jumpers I use gold plated type jumpers.
 
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RainfallSky

RainfallSky

Member
Joined 2015
2 picoDumbs said:
I accidently purchase the steel lead parts, they are now sitting in my parts bin never to be used.

Thanks for finding some copper lead parts.

For permanent metal links/jumpers I just purchase 20AWG - 22 AWG pure solid silver wire. For switchable jumpers I use gold plated type jumpers.
Click to expand...

Yeah, I meant permanent "jumpers" for R6, R27, R30, J1, J2.
Solid silver wire is also a very good choice.

chede said:
Good call on the magnetic leads on the silver mica caps, I have to check mine for that !

Best regards, Claas
Click to expand...

It seems all Cornell Dubilier Silver Mica capacitors have copper-clad steel lead except series CDA15 and CDA17.
 

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kilohertz

kilohertz

Member
Joined 2006
For those little 5pF caps I gave up trying to find the right cap and just made my own from wire wrap wire, but any nice silver plated Teflon or Kynar insulated solid wire will work, 22-26ga or so. I think mine ended up being about 1.25" long, just used 2 pieces of wire and twisted them together and tested with my capacitance meter. Cheap and easy.

Cheers
 

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1

13stoploss

Member
Joined 2016
Hi, newb here. I've just read 70 pages. Do I need to keep reading the next 470? Or is post #4 the gist of what's best to come? I'm experienced soldering and have built previous hum-free Decware DIY tube amps, but that's because I followed instructions.

I literally have no idea how this magic works, and all these acronyms and measurements in the first 70 pages are wildly over my head. I own a digital multimeter, but turning it on is the extent to my knowledge on how to use it.

I bought the BOM.
I bought the extras kit.
I bought a 4U that will ship after Italian summer holiday.
Store was out of LEDs and back panel kit.

Kinda frustrated that "Aleph J Kit" in the store page didn't say anything about power supply board. And I don't even know what a rectifier is, but I don't see that in the BOM either. You seasoned pros probably already know all this stuff, but this build guide and the kit page suggests that beginners can follow along. It would've been cool if the "Aleph J Kit" in the store said, "This BOM, and this BOM, and this chassis, and this transformer, etc."

So:

- Will the v3 PSU in the store work for this build?
- What other parts do I need that aren't listed above? I don't have a parts-bin stash like some of ya'll.
 
B

Ben Mah

Member
Joined 2012
Paid Member
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1

13stoploss

Member
Joined 2016
Ben Mah said:
Read 6L6's build guide at the start of this thread (post #1). It describes the power supply construction. And yes, the diyAudio power supply board will work with this amp. The power supply schematic shown in the build guide at the beginning of this thread shows all the components needed.

https://files.diyaudio.com/forums/gallery/data/500/medium/F5PSUschematic.jpg

Also 6L6's power supply build board V3 build guide:

diyAudio Power Supply Circuit Board v3 illustrated build guide
Click to expand...

Yep, I read the first 70 pages. Page one mentions an older, smaller version of the PSU that 6L6 had on hand. That's when I first freaked out, thinking, "This isn't in the BOM." And something about Diode bridges. This is what I mean--this stuff should be on the Aleph J Kit store page. I'm still trying to figure out what "Diode bridge" even means.

Super stoked for my project and to learn along the way. As you can see, I'm starting from basically no knowledge (your common terms are uncommon to beginner DIYers).

Thanks for the link to the v3 build guide. :)
 
1

13stoploss

Member
Joined 2016
Ben,

What's the difference between 3502 and 3506?

You linked to 3502, but in the first 70 pages, someone else linked to 3506: https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetai...PC3506/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMuQUXCJI7Y4ls%2bqq7CUTZec

So, in addition to learning about diode bridge, I now need to figure out what "bridge rectifier" means. I'm not being sarcastic. I'm up to the challenge. I'm here to learn. It pains me to be so literal that I have to ask these questions, but it appears that the first 70 pages assume a much higher understanding than what I'm starting with. I have to catch up. But to do that, I need to understand these terms, and they're kind of more localized than what Google can provide.

From pics, I gather that "bridge rectifier" is some kinda thing that I need to wire the transformer wires to, which then get routed to the PCB. By definition, a bridge is some kind of connection. You can get from here to there. But I'm coming from no knowledge or understanding of what the terms even mean.

My fault for buying the stuff before reading 500+ pages, but the first post from 6L6 seems kinda simple. I can follow those instructions, even if discovering things that I need to buy that weren't mentioned in the store page.

I guess I'm just asking... what else do I need to buy?

I don't have a power supply PCB. Or the parts that go to that. (Thanks for the link)
I've got lots of wire, and also shielded cable.
I know I need to buy an IEC receptacle with fuse.
I know I need to buy single-ended, back-panel stuff, and since I want to use balanced, I need those connections, too. (Sold out on store)

What else am I missing that wasn't included in the BOM at the store page?
 
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