Great job guys! You all are amazing, you are masters, I want to be like you.Have you tried to cut aluminum with a jigsaw, I did it (small cuts,just an L bar or cross bar) and the cut was really good.Remember I'm just a newbie don' kill me!.Also can you tell me how to anodized aluminum. Do I have to use sand paper? Thanks
Brian,
That looks very nice, it should look great once its all finished
I really like the idea of using solid blocks instead of L-bars to hold the sides together. I think if you use a thick enough front plate you could tap it on the inside. You could then connect the solid side support bars to the heatsinks and to the front/back plate. That way you'll end up with only couple visible screws on the TOP and buttom. Nothing on the front at all
That looks very nice, it should look great once its all finished
I really like the idea of using solid blocks instead of L-bars to hold the sides together. I think if you use a thick enough front plate you could tap it on the inside. You could then connect the solid side support bars to the heatsinks and to the front/back plate. That way you'll end up with only couple visible screws on the TOP and buttom. Nothing on the front at all 
porfi4ever said:
I have initially tried to cut aluminum with a jig saw, and actually used it to trim a couple of pieces of my first case, shown here:http://brian.darg.net/chassis
It is quite hard to get a nice looking, straight cut with a jig saw. Peter Daniel uses a circular saw to cut his aluminum, which is much easier to obtain then a table saw.
Anodizing is a electro/chemical process, where aluminum oxide is basically grown out of the surface of the aluminum, making a extremely hard, electrically insulated layer on top of the aluminum. It doesn't seem easy to do by yourself, and I am planning on having a professional place do it. As for the surface treatment, this is done before the anodizing.
nbaula said:Hi! Brian where did you buy all the aluminum that you use. Can't stop drowling after I saw those chasses.
I bought it all from Metal Supermarkets and mostly in "drop" form, which means pieces categorized to be too small to charge full price for, and not cut to size for you. They charged $1.85/lb for the stock pieces, and $2.50/lb for the sheets.
Jean said:I think if you use a thick enough front plate you could tap it on the inside. You could then connect the solid side support bars to the heatsinks and to the front/back plate. That way you'll end up with only couple visible screws on the TOP and buttom. Nothing on the front at all
That is exactly the goal of my Aleph-X chassis, but there will also be screws on the back, as I wanted to keep it 1/8" thickness so that the jacks/connectors can easily be mounted on it. The reason that I didn't do this for my preamp was that I wanted to also keep the front 1/8" so that I could easily mount the display, optical encoder, and other things easily. Ideally, if I had a machine shop, I would make all panels 1/2", and have no screws visible anywhere, and then have the front and back panels machined to mount the devices.
garnex said:
No problem! Good luck with your projects.
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Brian
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