Hi Will, I build Decware ZSLA-1 clone and chipamp in one box, PS for both in other box.
Today I see in decware.com , ZSLA-1 is out of production and schematic is not available online now. I have not saved file too, only printed schematic.
If you are really interested, I can try to draw it, maybe someone have saved schematic?
Zigis.
Today I see in decware.com , ZSLA-1 is out of production and schematic is not available online now. I have not saved file too, only printed schematic.
If you are really interested, I can try to draw it, maybe someone have saved schematic?
Zigis.
I have absolutely no hiss or hum with my gainclone, it's very quiet! My DC offset seems a bit high 90mV one channel and about 40 for the other one.
For Zigis :
I use the same schematics as Joe Rasmussen but I use 2 tubes. The pcb layout is not from me, it comes from a guy called Idefixes on another forum. I simply did the same as him, and I didn't ask why he used 2 tubes instead of one. The only thing different is the regulated PSU for the heater.
Of course I've got the PCB layout and I can share it if you're interested!
For Zigis :
I use the same schematics as Joe Rasmussen but I use 2 tubes. The pcb layout is not from me, it comes from a guy called Idefixes on another forum. I simply did the same as him, and I didn't ask why he used 2 tubes instead of one. The only thing different is the regulated PSU for the heater.
Of course I've got the PCB layout and I can share it if you're interested!
hidetogil, do you use only one half of each tube, or both are parallel ?
One half of each tube!
hidetogil said:I have absolutely no hiss or hum with my gainclone, it's very quiet! My DC offset seems a bit high 90mV one channel and about 40 for the other one.
For Zigis :
I use the same schematics as Joe Rasmussen but I use 2 tubes. The pcb layout is not from me, it comes from a guy called Idefixes on another forum. I simply did the same as him, and I didn't ask why he used 2 tubes instead of one. The only thing different is the regulated PSU for the heater.
Of course I've got the PCB layout and I can share it if you're interested!
Hi,
As I said, if you're using standard efficiency speakers the hiss is hardly noticable. But push it up to about 98-100dB like mine, hell will break loose.
Nuuk,
What's your current rated efficiency for your OB?
cheers.
What's your current rated efficiency for your OB?
They are 95db Will.
hidetoqil - can you send me the pcb layout and schematic you used for the buffer? Thankss
marcus7601@gmail.com
marcus7601@gmail.com
Hello h@kan, I looked at the PCB & kit you bought on eBay...what voltages does it require? Also, any way I could look at the schematic to see if I can use it in my car amp (chip amp based)?
marcus7601, do you have a copy of the schematic you personally used and/or the PCB as the guy above requested? How's the sound to you, also....you like it?
I built a +260V preamp for my car to use with the chip amp but it requires much circuitry for the power & time delays, etc. I would prefer to simplify it if possible as you guys did.
Thanks!
marcus7601, do you have a copy of the schematic you personally used and/or the PCB as the guy above requested? How's the sound to you, also....you like it?
I built a +260V preamp for my car to use with the chip amp but it requires much circuitry for the power & time delays, etc. I would prefer to simplify it if possible as you guys did.
Thanks!
I'm sorry Marcus, I meant to type "hidetogil" regarding my post asking for info the same as you.
As a side note, what I did for my car tube preamplifier (12AX7) was to use a 555-based timer that switches over DPDT mini relays from a line pass-through to the tube audio signal after about 30s.
That way I never lose audio unlike the commercial hybrid tube-transistor amps I owned long ago (Planet Audio HVT series) that made the listener wait 30+s with no sound while the tubes warmed up.
However in my LM3886 amplifier, I made a Microchip PIC-based (12F629) multiple-output delay timer for similiar purposes. It ends up being almost the same amount of hardware, but can be more flexible, and the software was simple.
As a side note, what I did for my car tube preamplifier (12AX7) was to use a 555-based timer that switches over DPDT mini relays from a line pass-through to the tube audio signal after about 30s.
That way I never lose audio unlike the commercial hybrid tube-transistor amps I owned long ago (Planet Audio HVT series) that made the listener wait 30+s with no sound while the tubes warmed up.
However in my LM3886 amplifier, I made a Microchip PIC-based (12F629) multiple-output delay timer for similiar purposes. It ends up being almost the same amount of hardware, but can be more flexible, and the software was simple.
MartyM said:Hello h@kan, I looked at the PCB & kit you bought on eBay...what voltages does it require? Also, any way I could look at the schematic to see if I can use it in my car amp (chip amp based)?
The tube buffer requires 12VAC. I use a 14 VAC transformer from a cordless drill charger with no problem. I dont know what happens if connecting 12DC. Maybe some where after the rectifiers on the board.
I dont have the schematic of the buffer, I have asked diy gene for it but with no success. The ebay ad claims that a logical schema diagram are included in the package but thats not true, at least not in my package.
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