Actually, before I ordered STW34NB20, STW20NW50FD as recommended for TA0105 was the one I wanted to use as it's the newest type from STM with low Qg for fast switching. However, eventually I decided to use STW34NB20 as it's what Tripath tried and suggested for TA3020.
If you are starting a fresh design, then take a closer look at "NW" series, besides "NB".
-ehien
If you are starting a fresh design, then take a closer look at "NW" series, besides "NB".
-ehien
Stability
Ehein,
Have you had any issues with your Tripath module? I bought a TA-104A last Spring, but put the project to the side after reading a couple of threads here re the instability of the amp. Apparently, the evaluation board has some issues. Some (like Chris Broderson) have reported trouble-free use for years, while others, (like rljones) have given-up on Tripath after many pops, explosions and small fires. I would love to have the power and efficiency of these amps, and have heard good things about the sound, but wonder if modules other than the 104A's might be more stable.
Any comments?
brad
Ehein,
Have you had any issues with your Tripath module? I bought a TA-104A last Spring, but put the project to the side after reading a couple of threads here re the instability of the amp. Apparently, the evaluation board has some issues. Some (like Chris Broderson) have reported trouble-free use for years, while others, (like rljones) have given-up on Tripath after many pops, explosions and small fires. I would love to have the power and efficiency of these amps, and have heard good things about the sound, but wonder if modules other than the 104A's might be more stable.
Any comments?
brad
Hi Brad,
I believe the Tripath amp can be VERY stable. Actually due to its low idle power (<10W with mute; <30W without) I am leaving it on 24/7 and not worrying about anything.
However, I did went through one fire and one explosion!!! Scared? Dont'...
Before my amp made any sound, the 10ohm/1W resistor I installed between chassis and internal ground burned out in flames once. I immediately recalled an issue I noticed but forgot to check before final assembly- the bridged TA3020 PCB has a few solder points too close to mount holes. When the aluminum standoffs were installed a couple of solder joints touched them and subsequently shorted to chassis ground. The problem never reappeared after I removed those particular standoffs.
The explosion (well actually not that bad, the top of a lytic cap popped) happened not long ago on one of Vpp-GND 470uF/63V electrolytic bypass caps. I believe it's due to excess turn-on surge voltages when I removed IRL (inrush current limiter). I replaced it with a new cap and reinstalled IRL and the amp has been on continuously for more than a week without hiccups.
Both incidents happened when my amp was being worked on on the bench. But it never gave me surprises (well except good sound) while connected in my system.
All in all, I believe this 3020 based amp can be very reliable. The chip has over current and other protections. I'm less familiar with 0104/0105 based amps but expect them to be about as reliable.
-ehien
I believe the Tripath amp can be VERY stable. Actually due to its low idle power (<10W with mute; <30W without) I am leaving it on 24/7 and not worrying about anything.
However, I did went through one fire and one explosion!!! Scared? Dont'...
Before my amp made any sound, the 10ohm/1W resistor I installed between chassis and internal ground burned out in flames once. I immediately recalled an issue I noticed but forgot to check before final assembly- the bridged TA3020 PCB has a few solder points too close to mount holes. When the aluminum standoffs were installed a couple of solder joints touched them and subsequently shorted to chassis ground. The problem never reappeared after I removed those particular standoffs.
The explosion (well actually not that bad, the top of a lytic cap popped) happened not long ago on one of Vpp-GND 470uF/63V electrolytic bypass caps. I believe it's due to excess turn-on surge voltages when I removed IRL (inrush current limiter). I replaced it with a new cap and reinstalled IRL and the amp has been on continuously for more than a week without hiccups.
Both incidents happened when my amp was being worked on on the bench. But it never gave me surprises (well except good sound) while connected in my system.
All in all, I believe this 3020 based amp can be very reliable. The chip has over current and other protections. I'm less familiar with 0104/0105 based amps but expect them to be about as reliable.
-ehien
audioPT said:Tripath Components
Anyone can tell me where I can buy Tripath components? I live in Portugal, and here I can't buy them.
I know that those chips sound good.
But, sounds really good?
Thanks
Pedro Martins
In europe try
http://www.profusionplc.com
best regards
Tripath
On of my email correspondants, who has a lot of time and experience with these Tripath modules, has expressed that the digital side of things is absolutely critical to the sonic performance of these amps.
Basically the same things that work well for reducing jitter in CDP's work wonders with these amps. Essentially give all the love and attention you can give to the quality of the 5V supply and you will reap massive musical rewards.
Andy.
On of my email correspondants, who has a lot of time and experience with these Tripath modules, has expressed that the digital side of things is absolutely critical to the sonic performance of these amps.
Basically the same things that work well for reducing jitter in CDP's work wonders with these amps. Essentially give all the love and attention you can give to the quality of the 5V supply and you will reap massive musical rewards.
Andy.
Hi
now I have a link with Measurements of the "prototype" with TriPath TA 3020
http://bernhard.nerz.bei.t-online.d...urementsEng.pdf
best regards
now I have a link with Measurements of the "prototype" with TriPath TA 3020
http://bernhard.nerz.bei.t-online.d...urementsEng.pdf
best regards
Hello all
My own Tripath TA3020 based amp is nearing completion, and only know do I discover this interesting thread!
Unlike ehien however, I realised early on that building a less powerful amp will mean less noise, and since I didn't need that much power anyway, I decided on building the non-bridged stereo eval-board with rather low rails (+- 30V). I hope that this will keep me from encountering ehien's noise problems.
I'm building the amp to get a "finger in the pie" of building digital amps, since I mostly only work with solid state (class AB) amps. The plan is basically to get some experience with this amp before moving on to Texas Instruments' True Digital Audio Amplifiers (TDAAs) which operates entirely in the digital domain (digital in, digital out, no analog stage/s). The end goal is to build a FULLY digital system, converting to analog just before hitting the speaker drivers.
I'll keep all who are interested updated.
Cheers
DJ
My own Tripath TA3020 based amp is nearing completion, and only know do I discover this interesting thread!
Unlike ehien however, I realised early on that building a less powerful amp will mean less noise, and since I didn't need that much power anyway, I decided on building the non-bridged stereo eval-board with rather low rails (+- 30V). I hope that this will keep me from encountering ehien's noise problems.
I'm building the amp to get a "finger in the pie" of building digital amps, since I mostly only work with solid state (class AB) amps. The plan is basically to get some experience with this amp before moving on to Texas Instruments' True Digital Audio Amplifiers (TDAAs) which operates entirely in the digital domain (digital in, digital out, no analog stage/s). The end goal is to build a FULLY digital system, converting to analog just before hitting the speaker drivers.
I'll keep all who are interested updated.
Cheers
DJ
ta103
I have a ta103 eval board. similar to the 104 but setup to use 54v power rails.
I did some testing with it but never ended up doing anything major with it. I did replace the output capacitors once because I ran a rather large sub with it an fried the supplied caps. I replaced them with higher voltage parts.
If anyone would want one to tinker with, i would be willing to part with mine.
I have a ta103 eval board. similar to the 104 but setup to use 54v power rails.
I did some testing with it but never ended up doing anything major with it. I did replace the output capacitors once because I ran a rather large sub with it an fried the supplied caps. I replaced them with higher voltage parts.
If anyone would want one to tinker with, i would be willing to part with mine.
hi.
>Cadaudio (www.cadaudio.dk) in Denmark have some.>
just to clarify , we have some TP0103 boards (and cases, heatsinks, transformers etc...but none of the TA3020....)
rgds - karsten madsen - www.cadaudio.dk
>Cadaudio (www.cadaudio.dk) in Denmark have some.>
just to clarify , we have some TP0103 boards (and cases, heatsinks, transformers etc...but none of the TA3020....)
rgds - karsten madsen - www.cadaudio.dk
hi.
ok let me explain a bit more, for the last couple of years we have sold tripath boards to diyer's (and to oems etc...) + linear power supplies, cases etc.
we have been selling pwm amplifiers (500-2000w) + switch mode supplies for these to oems.
we still do that but we will begin to sell these also to diyer's together with a range of new products in these catagories.
(new mono pwm amplifier boards, new stereo pwm amplifier boards boards , 12v switch mode supplies, 115/230v switch mode supplies,etc.....)
best rgds - karsten madsen - www.cadaudio.dk
ok let me explain a bit more, for the last couple of years we have sold tripath boards to diyer's (and to oems etc...) + linear power supplies, cases etc.
we have been selling pwm amplifiers (500-2000w) + switch mode supplies for these to oems.
we still do that but we will begin to sell these also to diyer's together with a range of new products in these catagories.
(new mono pwm amplifier boards, new stereo pwm amplifier boards boards , 12v switch mode supplies, 115/230v switch mode supplies,etc.....)
best rgds - karsten madsen - www.cadaudio.dk
T Amp problem!!
Hello,
Can anyone help me?
I have tried the input modifications re Michael Mardis's site but my problem lies with resistor R2.I have removed the resistor as required but I cannot solder onto this position again and the area on the pcb where R2 resided is now worn away and will not take solder.Can anyone tell me another way to access the R2 position on the pcb or another way of wiring up the replacement 22k resistor or indeed any other way of making the amplifier work.
I should say I did manage to get R1 removed and the replacement resistor soldered ok.
Any help anyone can give is much appreciated.
This is my first attemp at diy electronics and has convinced me to steer clear of smt components!
Hello,
Can anyone help me?
I have tried the input modifications re Michael Mardis's site but my problem lies with resistor R2.I have removed the resistor as required but I cannot solder onto this position again and the area on the pcb where R2 resided is now worn away and will not take solder.Can anyone tell me another way to access the R2 position on the pcb or another way of wiring up the replacement 22k resistor or indeed any other way of making the amplifier work.
I should say I did manage to get R1 removed and the replacement resistor soldered ok.
Any help anyone can give is much appreciated.
This is my first attemp at diy electronics and has convinced me to steer clear of smt components!
be cardful of this guy KM from http://www.cadaudio.dk
search on diyaudio.com and you will know what happened
search on diyaudio.com and you will know what happened
- Status
- This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.