Thanks!
It's the summer to get caught up on Brazilian Lounge Music. Should be alright, even with inefficient speakers.
First thought my phono stage had too much gain, now with a DAC with 2V into the preamp stage I'm getting more than needed compared to MacBook source of the last few years.
Can't help but wonder if there was a selector switch instead of building a headphone amp
It's the summer to get caught up on Brazilian Lounge Music. Should be alright, even with inefficient speakers.
First thought my phono stage had too much gain, now with a DAC with 2V into the preamp stage I'm getting more than needed compared to MacBook source of the last few years.
Can't help but wonder if there was a selector switch instead of building a headphone amp
Thank you Zen, Chede for the heads up. I will prepare heat sinking or paralel the rectifiers or both ... or even new ones, can't know yet.
The thing is that the rectifiers i bought from Mouser seem money wasted since their case is not appropriate for mounting on heat sink (is just a plain mounting case) because is not slightly polished or prepared for this.
Also if they are rated for 50A ... even with heat-sink at the 500V rating voltage how would they last more than a second? Whatever dodo means; it happens.
By the way, I am unfamiliar with the "dodo" term. Does it mean that they heat/blow up?
In the mean time I will power a 2500W heat blower trough one to evaluate the amount of heat generated and maybe see if sinking is keeping them alive. Otherwise i will have to get heat sink ready ones like these
sanding i can easily do .... but if the case/rectifier is not prepared for heat dissipation; then for sure diodes are not "grown" on the dissipating plate and just thrown in there just fixed with resin(s) and resins do not play well with heat dissipation.
I think I did not made any confusion (is not midnight anymore in my brain
):I figured that the 230V is well within in its rating so if powering a 2500W radiator will get about 11A of current trough it.
And at this point the heat dissipation will be about the same as in the amplifier (disregarding the 10 times lower voltage
that maters not in this context anyway).
No problems: picture on my supply is in post #1355
Got ones that i saw people using, with a bit more current rating because in diy one has an irresistible urge .. or tendency to grossly oversize .... ALWAYS
, but certainly less messy without
Still sounds fishie to me .
Thermal compound is good under 0.01 gaps at best; that one has the surface tolerance and grit ten times deeper not to count that the diodes sit in thermal insulator goo .
My chase is painted steel so as good of a heatsink as is my mother a sniper
Rank Metal Thermal Conductivity [BTU/(hr·ft⋅°F)] 1 Copper 223 2 Aluminum 118 3 Brass 64 4 Steel 17 5 Bronze 15
But i'll go carefully as suggested and can't go wrong where you guys did not.
. Thermal compound is good under 0.01 gaps at best; that one has the surface tolerance and grit ten times deeper not to count that the diodes sit in thermal insulator goo .
My chase is painted steel so as good of a heatsink as is my mother a sniper
Rank Metal Thermal Conductivity [BTU/(hr·ft⋅°F)] 1 Copper 223 2 Aluminum 118 3 Brass 64 4 Steel 17 5 Bronze 15
But i'll go carefully as suggested and can't go wrong where you guys did not.
well, over-engineering is a trap I fell into so many times
especially when I didn't had a slightest clue what I'm really doing
Read my thoughts ... i felt by your peaceful tone that i'm in a engineering loop
Thanks
well, over-engineering is a trap I fell into so many times
especially when I didn't had a slightest clue what I'm really doing
clueless is the rank i aspire ... i am below that
Actually, the heat transfer with the bridges just bolted to the heatsink or to the perforated inner chassis mounting plate that you can get as an accessory for the Modushop cases is strong enough to keep them healthy. The „peaks“ of the underside of the bridge do provide enough contact area for 4.5 V RMS bias that my souped-up Aleph J is pulling. Not even need for heatsinking compound.
The tip from Zen Mod for using a split washer/ Belleville washer or similar is absolutely essential, though.
Otherwise, with the bolt just tightened on a regular washer, the expansion and contraction of thermal cycling as the amp warms up and cools down will work the bolt loose over time, and you lose the heat transfer ability ...
Regards, Claas
The tip from Zen Mod for using a split washer/ Belleville washer or similar is absolutely essential, though.
Otherwise, with the bolt just tightened on a regular washer, the expansion and contraction of thermal cycling as the amp warms up and cools down will work the bolt loose over time, and you lose the heat transfer ability ...
Regards, Claas
Thanks.
Thanks everyone. Stereo sounds the best it ever has. Dual F4s with paralleled inputs doing vertical biamping on Coincident PREs. A little bitter sweet packing up the 300b amps for their new owner yesterday, but the F4s do a number of things better than they did on these speakers. Maybe I've lost a little touch of front to back soundstage depth. I think that's about it really. Gained clarity, extension, and control.
Packed up the dining room work bench since I'm done building... of course I'm already thinking about doing a SissySIT.
Thanks for all the support. It was fun to build and learn.
Thanks everyone. Stereo sounds the best it ever has. Dual F4s with paralleled inputs doing vertical biamping on Coincident PREs. A little bitter sweet packing up the 300b amps for their new owner yesterday, but the F4s do a number of things better than they did on these speakers. Maybe I've lost a little touch of front to back soundstage depth. I think that's about it really. Gained clarity, extension, and control.
Packed up the dining room work bench since I'm done building... of course I'm already thinking about doing a SissySIT.
Thanks for all the support. It was fun to build and learn.
