The cathode biasing will do that for you automatically.if you can accurately balance the currents on each side.
Fixed bias on such low mu toobz is a sure path to disaster.
I eventually used resisters on heat sink tabs to the Aluminum chassis. They need to be 10 watt rating.
And more recently added a couple of pieces of scrap Aluminum extrusion externally to better dissipate the heat.
In my case building this amplifier was a 'Proof of Concept'
experiment to overcome the large drive requirements of low mu toobz.
I never built a complete amplifier, the concept worked, I moved on the other problems.
I've put a pdf together of the original project as published with some additions & corrections.Can I ask You for full schematics with power supply
Anyone wants a copy, PM me with you email address.
Do the experiment; try both and see for yourself if you are building rather than buying one. My personal preference would be push-pull.I have a bunch of 6AS7G I thinking of building with in the future.
But I wonder do they sound best I SE or P-P?
Nevermind the outputpower just the sound Quality.
Schemas are welcome..