Moondog, I've just had a quick look over your sims. 500L is a big box! The Qts of your driver would be about 0.4. I'd probably squish them all into an aperiodic box. See what size box you get with a Q of say 0.8 - 1. Now put in an aperiodic port - could be as simple as an opening blocked with foam. Fill your box to add some damping. See if you can get it down to more like 250L.
You end up with something like 500 x 500 x 1200, 3 drivers on the front, 3 on the back. In that case you will only need a minimum of bracing, even as simple as 2 studs connecting weak points of the baffles, and a few the other way. Basically you are anchoring the drivers solidly to each other with a strut (stud). That takes care of vibration right at the source and you could even get away with leaving out all other bracing.
If you can pick up some cheap chinese formply, you have something light, easy to carry and store, reasonably weather proof right away and easy to build. In that case you might use construction adhesive.
If you set the low pass around 80 Hz, then that already gives you some EQ effectively.
Only thing to watch is amp power, which can creep up as the box gets smaller. If you only have 300w, then each driver gets about 50w. The design may well become amp limited.
You end up with something like 500 x 500 x 1200, 3 drivers on the front, 3 on the back. In that case you will only need a minimum of bracing, even as simple as 2 studs connecting weak points of the baffles, and a few the other way. Basically you are anchoring the drivers solidly to each other with a strut (stud). That takes care of vibration right at the source and you could even get away with leaving out all other bracing.
If you can pick up some cheap chinese formply, you have something light, easy to carry and store, reasonably weather proof right away and easy to build. In that case you might use construction adhesive.
If you set the low pass around 80 Hz, then that already gives you some EQ effectively.
Only thing to watch is amp power, which can creep up as the box gets smaller. If you only have 300w, then each driver gets about 50w. The design may well become amp limited.
Paul it depends on which driver we are talking about, this thread (Like lots of others ) got a bit sidetracked ) LOL.
The 500l box was for the MTX subbie
The 12 inch Avicos are OK for anything between 50 and 120 litres and X-Max limited to around 30 or 40 watts in the bigger box, so my initial box plans at 1200*1200 are maybe a bit big but use a single sheet with only one cut and utilise cut stuff I already have.
Drivers front and rear will be wasted as the position for the box will be hard up against the house wall and firing down the length of the yard.
I can make the box less deep to lower the volume per driver and bracing will also take up some space
The 500l box was for the MTX subbie
The 12 inch Avicos are OK for anything between 50 and 120 litres and X-Max limited to around 30 or 40 watts in the bigger box, so my initial box plans at 1200*1200 are maybe a bit big but use a single sheet with only one cut and utilise cut stuff I already have.
Drivers front and rear will be wasted as the position for the box will be hard up against the house wall and firing down the length of the yard.
I can make the box less deep to lower the volume per driver and bracing will also take up some space
We're talking about bass bins right? So rotate them 90 degrees so both fire side ways. It makes a big difference with vibration, and turns a crappy box into an ok box. You should also get some nice reinforcement from the wall, especially if brick. Another way to go would be to make it so they are close to the ground wall junction for maximum reinforcement, assuming the wall is suited to bass reinforcement. If it was a leaky wall with an open subfloor space then it's a different story. If it's a brick wall on concrete, then there is massive gain to be had that way. I remember setting up some crappy little speakers in front of a concrete garage wall on pavers outside, in my uni days, and I was suprised at the punchy bass - best I ever had with those speakers.
Crappy weatherboard on loose decking.
But you are right and I need to think about that aspect, might need to redo the extension plans for a short section of external brick-venereal and concrete base when we do the new lounge room. Hmm maybe a section of the compressed cement sheet underneath would work, in the short term; not cheap but may be cost effective way to get some floor bounce. House is to be clad all over with galvanised iron on battens over Foilboard so the new exterior will not be music friendly in that regard.
But you are right and I need to think about that aspect, might need to redo the extension plans for a short section of external brick-venereal and concrete base when we do the new lounge room. Hmm maybe a section of the compressed cement sheet underneath would work, in the short term; not cheap but may be cost effective way to get some floor bounce. House is to be clad all over with galvanised iron on battens over Foilboard so the new exterior will not be music friendly in that regard.
Just rethinking this Paul, given your advice.
I could make it ultra cheap by using 16mm pre-cut chipboard "Handy sheet" and build a box ~600*600*900 and put 2 drivers on each of 3 sides leaving the rear for the terminal plate.
I can use all of my ply and MDF offcuts for the bracing and it will have a smaller footprint to boot
I could make it ultra cheap by using 16mm pre-cut chipboard "Handy sheet" and build a box ~600*600*900 and put 2 drivers on each of 3 sides leaving the rear for the terminal plate.
I can use all of my ply and MDF offcuts for the bracing and it will have a smaller footprint to boot
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