Me noooooooooooooo , I made the bench to high
I tried curfing a board ,what a pain in the **** that is .If the make each vein/section to wide ,when you curve it you end up with a faceted curve .
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Hi Lusk
Its Pacific Maple Marine 2440x1220x25 $159.71 a sheet .
If your going to be showing the end grain after you stack them go with Russian or if you can get Finnish Baltic Birch .
CHeers
Now you tell puppet
,whats a spindle shaper .Anyway its down the corners are cut .Next glue them together then rabbit the ends for the side boards to fit into .
CHeers
gluing
Made a simple jig up to hold the corners while being glued .Its much easier to glue layers together when you have dowel holes,like I did with the speaker cab's .
There's a little bit of variance between each layer which should be alright after sanding a hiFilling .
7 more to go
CHeers
Made a simple jig up to hold the corners while being glued .Its much easier to glue layers together when you have dowel holes
,like I did with the speaker cab's .
There's a little bit of variance between each layer which should be alright after sanding a hiFilling .
7 more to go
CHeers
Hi 56oval .... the bandsaw would have been ideal here ... if there's a next time, cut the sheet up into smaller squares.
Make a template for the bandsaw ... basically a flat piece of plywood that has a strip attached underside to ride the mitre gauge groove. Advance into the blade to establish the cut line halfway into the plywood template. Clamp a stop block on the aft side of the saw bed to keep the sled (plywood template) from going any farther forward while cutting all of the pieces ... (repeatability).
Off the cut line, right where it ends in the sled, scribe a 90* line. On this line you will locate a pin, nail, whatever at the desired final arch radius. Put your blank on the sled and advance it into the blade to the stop block ... turn the blank on the pin ... done.
Make a template for the bandsaw ... basically a flat piece of plywood that has a strip attached underside to ride the mitre gauge groove. Advance into the blade to establish the cut line halfway into the plywood template. Clamp a stop block on the aft side of the saw bed to keep the sled (plywood template) from going any farther forward while cutting all of the pieces ... (repeatability).
Off the cut line, right where it ends in the sled, scribe a 90* line. On this line you will locate a pin, nail, whatever at the desired final arch radius. Put your blank on the sled and advance it into the blade to the stop block ... turn the blank on the pin ... done.
Hi Henry & 3GGG
Mine isn't the same design, Paul Spencer sim'd a different cabinet for the Alpine .The cabs over 600mm WIDE and 2400mm LONG the pair are going to be big
. Horns rep sims
Red Spade Audio
A mate showed me a build on AVS using these drivers but its a different build .
The drivers can be bought from a number of supplier's .I do have plans for the build which I payed for and there not up for grabs at the moment need to prove the design first .Need to make sure reality close to sims
.Cheers
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It's slowly coming together
Evening
The corners have had time to dry ,I've given a rough sand to smooth out the face's and square them up .The tops I've left to trim level with the sides.
I needed to rebate the ends so theres over lap with the side boards to bond to and seal .Couldn't find a router bit with enough width so I cut the rebates with the saw .Finally drilled the 20mm holes in the bench top for the clamps .
CHeers
Evening
The corners have had time to dry ,I've given a rough sand to smooth out the face's and square them up .The tops I've left to trim level with the sides.
I needed to rebate the ends so theres over lap with the side boards to bond to and seal .Couldn't find a router bit with enough width so I cut the rebates with the saw .Finally drilled the 20mm holes in the bench top for the clamps .
CHeers
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