Hi, Jzagaja,
What did you prefer between A plastic SEOS 12 horn & DNA-360 CD and a TPL-150 H.... from 1500 or 2000 hz ?
Seos horns : Are there differences with plastic, fiber or else with sound quality (damping, vibrations ?) or are they just visual improvement ?
Well I loot at the spec of the 18 Beyma...beautifull driver. I prefer but the price a Davis RCA 15 (because both of the mms and Fs...and maybe the voice col).... Maybe the Beyma in an active closed box with digital plate amps... but below 100 hz.
Hello.
--First post!--
I'm 3d printing a horn right now.
It is the driver/throat adapter for a conical Synergy horn.
I am printing it just for fun to see how it measures vs. hornresp simulations.
I think it will be finished in aboud 10 hours or so..
you can see the printing live on www.ustream.tv/channel/andersbr
The printer is homemade and has a build volume of 45cm diameter/45 cm height.
The printer cost around 1000usd to build.
Cheers!
Anders
--First post!--
I'm 3d printing a horn right now.
It is the driver/throat adapter for a conical Synergy horn.
I am printing it just for fun to see how it measures vs. hornresp simulations.
I think it will be finished in aboud 10 hours or so..
you can see the printing live on www.ustream.tv/channel/andersbr
The printer is homemade and has a build volume of 45cm diameter/45 cm height.
The printer cost around 1000usd to build.
Cheers!
Anders
Last edited:
Eldam:
Like you, after 40 yrs of searching, building and owning Infinity 4.5's, assorted Magnapan, electrostatic speakers, large B&W speakers I finally got off the speaker merry go round. It all ended while I was at the Rocky Mountain Fest and listened to Dr. Bruce Edgars horn system and the Cogent horn system several years ago. Nothing could touch them with dynamics, efficiency, power and ease of musical flow. I have been to almost all the major audio shows in the USA since the year 2000 and my humble opinion still holds true.
You have a large living space and a horn system would be ideal. Most audio people buy one speaker system after another over time and are unhappy. The reason is mostly the lack of dynamics almost all "box" speakers have.
A mid bass horn is absolutely critical to a great audio system and there is no substitute. The critical 80hz to 400hz range is the foundation of music. A properly made mid bass horn will put to shame ANY box speaker period in that range.
Inductor gave you a link to " paper horn " which is Inlow sound. They have plans for an 80hz and 100hz mid bass horn. They are not that big in size but big in sound. If you can make one of them that would be your foundation for a great speaker system. There are various horn /waveguides available as well as many compression drivers to cover the midrange and treble. If I were you I would get a pair of JBL 2441 2" compression drivers off ebay or locally if possible as they are a great midrange.
High Efficiency is the way to go along with simple 6db crossovers. My system is 108db for 1 watt and sounds fantastic with a small SET tube amp.
I have no regrets with my audio journey over the years however if I knew then what I know now I would have went straight to a 4 way horn system and saved many thousands of dollars.
Joe
Like you, after 40 yrs of searching, building and owning Infinity 4.5's, assorted Magnapan, electrostatic speakers, large B&W speakers I finally got off the speaker merry go round. It all ended while I was at the Rocky Mountain Fest and listened to Dr. Bruce Edgars horn system and the Cogent horn system several years ago. Nothing could touch them with dynamics, efficiency, power and ease of musical flow. I have been to almost all the major audio shows in the USA since the year 2000 and my humble opinion still holds true.
You have a large living space and a horn system would be ideal. Most audio people buy one speaker system after another over time and are unhappy. The reason is mostly the lack of dynamics almost all "box" speakers have.
A mid bass horn is absolutely critical to a great audio system and there is no substitute. The critical 80hz to 400hz range is the foundation of music. A properly made mid bass horn will put to shame ANY box speaker period in that range.
Inductor gave you a link to " paper horn " which is Inlow sound. They have plans for an 80hz and 100hz mid bass horn. They are not that big in size but big in sound. If you can make one of them that would be your foundation for a great speaker system. There are various horn /waveguides available as well as many compression drivers to cover the midrange and treble. If I were you I would get a pair of JBL 2441 2" compression drivers off ebay or locally if possible as they are a great midrange.
High Efficiency is the way to go along with simple 6db crossovers. My system is 108db for 1 watt and sounds fantastic with a small SET tube amp.
I have no regrets with my audio journey over the years however if I knew then what I know now I would have went straight to a 4 way horn system and saved many thousands of dollars.
Joe
thank you for your input Joe,
Sometimes, i just switch on my old Kef 104/2 (first version monowired) getted at 700 euros. Feel in peace after : they disseaper, have a beautifull short treble, a sort of peace of foam between them and the listner,, amazing mid-bass (no Kube, I haven't) but no bass (good for rock !)
My very superior Boston Acoustic 400L are great qualities but separated, that's the opposite with the Kef...you just listen music and not tone+space+speed+polar response+ put all you want here +...
So I understand you ! And I 'm very very not sure to do better than my Kef or Lynnfield without copy design of experienced people here !
Sometimes, i just switch on my old Kef 104/2 (first version monowired) getted at 700 euros. Feel in peace after : they disseaper, have a beautifull short treble, a sort of peace of foam between them and the listner,, amazing mid-bass (no Kube, I haven't) but no bass (good for rock !)
My very superior Boston Acoustic 400L are great qualities but separated, that's the opposite with the Kef...you just listen music and not tone+space+speed+polar response+ put all you want here +...
So I understand you ! And I 'm very very not sure to do better than my Kef or Lynnfield without copy design of experienced people here !
This one has a honeycomb support structure inside (16-20% plastic), covered with 2mm solid walls. 12mm total. Weight is 500g, so it cost around 15$ in ABS plastic.
If printing a normal horn, i guess the walls will be solid and much thinner.
-Anders
I did not get any plans.
the construction is just inspired by other delta printers like Rostock Max, Kossel and the impressive Berrybot3D.
I learned that 3d printers are very flexible in construction, you just have to input the as-built dimensions, arm length etc. in the software when built.
You maybe could try to print the "flower organic horn" by JMLC... don't know if it's free or patented !
I like too the japanese simplicity of the paper horn... asking myself about strengh and wave lenght of sound...are they proof (paper, or do they radiate a little by their external side (damping ?) !!!!
If damping of internal of horns are important, we can imagine a bath of synthetic latex for the 15 dollars 3D print horn ! Or of course red fish open reticulated foam for aquarium...
Cause of the CD and bass, horns system > 100 hz is too expensive for me...
I like too the japanese simplicity of the paper horn... asking myself about strengh and wave lenght of sound...are they proof (paper, or do they radiate a little by their external side (damping ?) !!!!
If damping of internal of horns are important, we can imagine a bath of synthetic latex for the 15 dollars 3D print horn ! Or of course red fish open reticulated foam for aquarium...
Cause of the CD and bass, horns system > 100 hz is too expensive for me...
Eldam & others:
Owning or having access to a 3d printer is nice and a great new technology that will evolve over time. Most are small and still fairly expensive. Some people have actually made a working gun using a 3d printer !!!!!
A horn system can get expensive but you can do like I did and buy the drivers and horns/waveguides a piece at a time as your budget allows. I made my mid bass horns and it was the best time/money investment I ever spent in audio. You have to look at this as long term gratification. Buying many different speaker systems over time can be very expensive.
When you look at Physics aspect of speakers NO cone driver can keep up with the speed and control of a good compression driver due to the very low moving mass and powerful motor of the compression driver. Most good compression drivers have flat frequency and impedance curves which makes them easy to drive.
Joe
Owning or having access to a 3d printer is nice and a great new technology that will evolve over time. Most are small and still fairly expensive. Some people have actually made a working gun using a 3d printer !!!!!
A horn system can get expensive but you can do like I did and buy the drivers and horns/waveguides a piece at a time as your budget allows. I made my mid bass horns and it was the best time/money investment I ever spent in audio. You have to look at this as long term gratification. Buying many different speaker systems over time can be very expensive.
When you look at Physics aspect of speakers NO cone driver can keep up with the speed and control of a good compression driver due to the very low moving mass and powerful motor of the compression driver. Most good compression drivers have flat frequency and impedance curves which makes them easy to drive.
Joe
Now how cool is that? That looks like it could make some pretty good sized parts.
Very nice! If there were a 3D printer that could build out to 60cm, one could have built some JMLC-300 Iwata horns. That would be something! The smaller ones like the JMLC-600, I guess you could build with this machine. What the future brings
Not false Joe.
For me it's one pair every 7 years, I begann at 15... i'm late cause now I'm 44 !
Here in france with Hiraga and others which wrote a lot before Internet with printpapers, Horns are used for a long time like in USA, GB & Japan of course. many spent their life with bad results, now we have informatic XO, Internet, the world is better because a lot of shares between whom of all countries who can have the ressources for it.
But because there are slighty more people who can buy, prices are ridiculous always too high. Don't talk about artisans, but most of brands.
People here who share & makes GB are appreciate. thanks for that.
by the way can't spent more 2000 euros for a pair. Complete speakers horns are too expensive although the great efforts here (Seos and others...). There is the DIY way, but sometimes it's expensive too !
Not really sure a tiny plastic horn and a cheap CD can be better than a TP-150 H even if it is orange and apple ! I want just avoid the worm in the bader fruit into my market!
Well, No "omlette sans casser des oeufs" !
For me it's one pair every 7 years, I begann at 15... i'm late cause now I'm 44 !
Here in france with Hiraga and others which wrote a lot before Internet with printpapers, Horns are used for a long time like in USA, GB & Japan of course. many spent their life with bad results, now we have informatic XO, Internet, the world is better because a lot of shares between whom of all countries who can have the ressources for it.
But because there are slighty more people who can buy, prices are ridiculous always too high. Don't talk about artisans, but most of brands.
People here who share & makes GB are appreciate. thanks for that.
by the way can't spent more 2000 euros for a pair. Complete speakers horns are too expensive although the great efforts here (Seos and others...). There is the DIY way, but sometimes it's expensive too !
Not really sure a tiny plastic horn and a cheap CD can be better than a TP-150 H even if it is orange and apple ! I want just avoid the worm in the bader fruit into my market!
Well, No "omlette sans casser des oeufs" !
Last edited:
Having access to a 3d printer is nice and a great new technology that also will evolve over time, I'm sure of that. And there are small cheaper 3D CAD/CAM machines that you can make at home DIY for +/- 1K usd.
The price at this moment for metal sintering 3D printers (CAD-DMLS) from the likes "Solid Concepts" (saw interview on TV this week) is between 600K - 1 million usd. (You can choose between a diy part?! or a Veyron!...) At the same time a MOLD for the manufacturing process of a few hundreds/thousands PARTS can be also 10K-100K usd. So this is the type of money involved in the industry right now outside diy.
Anyway you have now access time to a factory CADCAM paying by the hour. You can ask/pay for 1 PART or a hundred, your choice. The money for the process/design/man-hours gets diluted if you solicit for more than one from the same mold.
Of course there are also plastic guns that you use only once... and cheaper processes.
Solid Concepts - Direct Metal Laser Sintering (DMLS) Technology - YouTube
Besides the plastic parts (3D-CAD) at the moment or the Plastic Injection Molding for this purpose, I find the aluminum cast (Sand Cast) more interesting for applications of any size at home or at the workshop (manufacture or university). Talk is cheap...
Metal Casting: A Sand Casting Manual for the Small Foundry, Vol. 1: Stephen D. Chastain: 9780970220325: Amazon.com: Books
Sand Casting - INTRODUCTION Philip White & jenny dunseath - YouTube
Metal Casting: Sand Moulds (excerpt) - YouTube
Ive been drawing up ideas for a easy way to build a conical, or elliptical synergy/tractrix horn, and been looking at the idea of 3D printing the entry for the 1" driver and the tricky mounting of the 4 other drivers.
Shapeways now offers porcelain as an option, and the early ideas have these coming in at about £75.
Now I just need to learn SolidWorks as Sketchup is rubbish for this sort of thing...
Shapeways now offers porcelain as an option, and the early ideas have these coming in at about £75.
Now I just need to learn SolidWorks as Sketchup is rubbish for this sort of thing...
- Status
- This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.