The Quad 63 is built wit 3 micron TENSILIZED polyester. Three micron would not be a recommended film thickness for a first time build. Such thin films are just not strong enough to take the tension necessary to provide stable restoring force and they will collapse under moderat drive. Two micron or thinner is just not strong enough and is very difficult to work with. I can just about assure you that any film that you buy today sub 6 microns is NOT going to be tensilized (which adds a lot of strength to the film). Do you really want to go through such a hard learning curve building your panels and then have your diaphragms split in the near future? I mentioned before that you could not do yourself a better favor than to pick up a set of Acoustat interfaces preferably with panels so that you will have top quality interfaces as well as a real quality reference to judge your work by. Jim Strickland who owned Acoustat originally designed and built high voltage direct drive amplifiers to drive his panels which were fashioned after Arthur Janzen`s design. Jim replaced the direct drive amps with the Acoustat twin transformer interface and much prefered the transformers to the DD amp. There is not a hope that you are going to be able to do a better job of designing and building a better interface. The Acoustat interfaces can be found for very little money far less than buying new parts so why are you trying so hard to make your project so much harder than it needs to be?
You are looking at a complicated project and also working with transformers and voltages that can put you in a box if you do not know what you are doing. Take it easy and start with something that works and then when you have learned what is what you can work on your next project. Not to be negative but you are not going to equal much less better the best in the industry on your first attempt. I am sorry if this is not what you want to hear but I would rather you were a little more realistic with your first project. The high voltage supply is fully capable of knocking you *** over tea kettle if you get yourself across it and are well grounded at the time. If you think I am being mean or insensitive I am sorry but that is not my intent. I will stop now. Good luck and best regards Moray James.
You are looking at a complicated project and also working with transformers and voltages that can put you in a box if you do not know what you are doing. Take it easy and start with something that works and then when you have learned what is what you can work on your next project. Not to be negative but you are not going to equal much less better the best in the industry on your first attempt. I am sorry if this is not what you want to hear but I would rather you were a little more realistic with your first project. The high voltage supply is fully capable of knocking you *** over tea kettle if you get yourself across it and are well grounded at the time. If you think I am being mean or insensitive I am sorry but that is not my intent. I will stop now. Good luck and best regards Moray James.
that stuff would be great for some headphones!
But i don't think that you will get enough tension to withstand the forces of 2kv and higher.
The 5 micron or 10 micron stuff would be just fine though.
Non Aluminized of course.
jer
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Low Powered High Voltage Ceramic Capacitor Charger and Test Jig
High Voltage DC Power Supplies
Geraldfryjr..... what do you think of the item named on this site... the test jig
or 35,000 Volt Low Cost Power Supply
"Almost Shockless" Current Controlled Version
I know enough to know I am wanting dc high voltage preferably variable and low current
below on the same page looks cheap
All New
Low Cost 25 KV DC Power Supply
Available in Positive or Negative Output
These low powered devices may be used for battery or solar applications. They are short circuit proof and suitable for capacitor charging without a current limiting resistor. They may also be used as low power high voltage power supplies.
At last an affordable virtually indestructible source of high voltage for the hobbyist and professional. Now be able to experiment with continuous high voltage spark discharges, negative or positive ion generation, high speed ion propulsion motors, capacitor charging, powering small anti gravity lifters, animal and pest control, shocking, night vision power supplies, powering Crookes tubes, Geiger tubes, material testing, corona and Saint Elmo's fire, static generation, flocking devices, ion ray guns etc..
High Voltage DC Power Supplies
Geraldfryjr..... what do you think of the item named on this site... the test jig
or 35,000 Volt Low Cost Power Supply
"Almost Shockless" Current Controlled Version
I know enough to know I am wanting dc high voltage preferably variable and low current
below on the same page looks cheap
All New
Low Cost 25 KV DC Power Supply
Available in Positive or Negative Output
These low powered devices may be used for battery or solar applications. They are short circuit proof and suitable for capacitor charging without a current limiting resistor. They may also be used as low power high voltage power supplies.
At last an affordable virtually indestructible source of high voltage for the hobbyist and professional. Now be able to experiment with continuous high voltage spark discharges, negative or positive ion generation, high speed ion propulsion motors, capacitor charging, powering small anti gravity lifters, animal and pest control, shocking, night vision power supplies, powering Crookes tubes, Geiger tubes, material testing, corona and Saint Elmo's fire, static generation, flocking devices, ion ray guns etc..
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I think that they are neat ,But, IMHO they are overpriced.
But they are in a kit with every thing you need and is already designed for you.
I built mine for much less from parts at radio shack.
It would have been much cheaper had I mail ordered the capacitors(with a higher voltage rating) and proper diodes(higher speed).
My supply will charge up to the 20kv to 40kv range and can draw a continuous 6mm dc arc.
I have been able to measure as much as 7.5kv with a large resistor divider string but measuring voltages above this starts to become difficult due to not having a high enough resistance to limit the amount of current draw.
But the > .75 inch snaps that it does produce is a very good indication of its capabilities.
I have these tests documented in another thread as well including pictures of waveforms using my scope.
The ripple was about 200v to 400v at >200khz switching frequency.
I have posted the schematic as is, But higher speed diodes such as the UF4007 should be used as I used the standard 1N4007 type in my circuit and it is probably the cause of its suffering performance when a load is connected to it,But hey it works!
It provides the 0v to 7.5kv that I need to power my panels and that is all it was designed to do ,so there is much room for improvement.
I have posted the schematic and have been criticized for it s shortcomings ,But like I said it works perfect for what it is supposed to do.
Therefore I don't have an exact recipe as those kits offer(although at a very high price).
I used some torrid filter cores rip out of some dead PC Supplies with little mods for the step up transformer and FET drive transformer.
It took some experimenting to get it right.
This was before I was familar with the in's and out's the transformer design.
So, I can't tell you what exactly which core to go get and use X amount of turns.
But, What I have presented is the basis for a start if you have a scope to help through the rest of it.
Right now after a year later it is still on my breadboard waiting to be rebuilt on a PC board for permanent mounting.
I will have a pattern for this shortly as I just got a new laser printer for the sole purpose of making boards.
It is because of this reason I haven't done anything lately with my ESL projects and this is soon to change.
Last year the thing was sprauld all across my desk and I was at great risk of taking out some expensive equipment several times and did lose a 5.25" woofer from its wires getting to close to the bias supply wire and opening the voice coil while everything was running and playing some music.
It could also be the reason why one of my computers don't want to boot up even into bios anymore as well (maybe).
I used every precaution I could but high voltages do travel and very easily I might add.
So, putting the stuff in a proper enclosure is something I can't stress enough.
When I do the board I will incorparate the resistor divider network buffered by an opamp in order to make accurate voltage samplings as I just used my scope connected to it and was at great risk of popping the input stage of my scope.
Also this will allow me to incorperate a feedback type regulation system as well.
My intent was to use PWM but this proved difficult due to two reasons,
1# the stepup transformer had a very high Q at its resonate frequency and any variations of this rendered a drastic change in output voltage,
2# since the frequency was so high it was at the extreme end of the 555 timers limit of operation and proved difficult to incoreperate it and still stay stable.
Rewinding the simple transformer for a lower frequency of operation will probably solve these issues and is something I just might due when I build a second version.
Right now I just need it in a box and running again.
But once it was tuned up it remained stable and worked every time I fired it up as well as it was very reliable.
I left it on for two months straight with no issues of output voltages changing or FET's running hot or burning up,Very much unlike my first few attempt's.
I didn't get a chance to measure how much current the final version draws so that I could determine the use of a smaller supply transformer but the power devices were cool to the touch.
The ability to have a variable output and measure this voltage reliably at the same time has been a Godsend as far as testing various type of materials and the stators for any leakages.
My next version will be more refined with a much higher voltage and current capability strictly for testing materials and should I decide to make some large bass panels some time in the future.
jer
But they are in a kit with every thing you need and is already designed for you.
I built mine for much less from parts at radio shack.
It would have been much cheaper had I mail ordered the capacitors(with a higher voltage rating) and proper diodes(higher speed).
My supply will charge up to the 20kv to 40kv range and can draw a continuous 6mm dc arc.
I have been able to measure as much as 7.5kv with a large resistor divider string but measuring voltages above this starts to become difficult due to not having a high enough resistance to limit the amount of current draw.
But the > .75 inch snaps that it does produce is a very good indication of its capabilities.
I have these tests documented in another thread as well including pictures of waveforms using my scope.
The ripple was about 200v to 400v at >200khz switching frequency.
I have posted the schematic as is, But higher speed diodes such as the UF4007 should be used as I used the standard 1N4007 type in my circuit and it is probably the cause of its suffering performance when a load is connected to it,But hey it works!
It provides the 0v to 7.5kv that I need to power my panels and that is all it was designed to do ,so there is much room for improvement.
I have posted the schematic and have been criticized for it s shortcomings ,But like I said it works perfect for what it is supposed to do.
Therefore I don't have an exact recipe as those kits offer(although at a very high price).
I used some torrid filter cores rip out of some dead PC Supplies with little mods for the step up transformer and FET drive transformer.
It took some experimenting to get it right.
This was before I was familar with the in's and out's the transformer design.
So, I can't tell you what exactly which core to go get and use X amount of turns.
But, What I have presented is the basis for a start if you have a scope to help through the rest of it.
Right now after a year later it is still on my breadboard waiting to be rebuilt on a PC board for permanent mounting.
I will have a pattern for this shortly as I just got a new laser printer for the sole purpose of making boards.
It is because of this reason I haven't done anything lately with my ESL projects and this is soon to change.
Last year the thing was sprauld all across my desk and I was at great risk of taking out some expensive equipment several times and did lose a 5.25" woofer from its wires getting to close to the bias supply wire and opening the voice coil while everything was running and playing some music.
It could also be the reason why one of my computers don't want to boot up even into bios anymore as well (maybe).
I used every precaution I could but high voltages do travel and very easily I might add.
So, putting the stuff in a proper enclosure is something I can't stress enough.
When I do the board I will incorparate the resistor divider network buffered by an opamp in order to make accurate voltage samplings as I just used my scope connected to it and was at great risk of popping the input stage of my scope.
Also this will allow me to incorperate a feedback type regulation system as well.
My intent was to use PWM but this proved difficult due to two reasons,
1# the stepup transformer had a very high Q at its resonate frequency and any variations of this rendered a drastic change in output voltage,
2# since the frequency was so high it was at the extreme end of the 555 timers limit of operation and proved difficult to incoreperate it and still stay stable.
Rewinding the simple transformer for a lower frequency of operation will probably solve these issues and is something I just might due when I build a second version.
Right now I just need it in a box and running again.
But once it was tuned up it remained stable and worked every time I fired it up as well as it was very reliable.
I left it on for two months straight with no issues of output voltages changing or FET's running hot or burning up,Very much unlike my first few attempt's.
I didn't get a chance to measure how much current the final version draws so that I could determine the use of a smaller supply transformer but the power devices were cool to the touch.
The ability to have a variable output and measure this voltage reliably at the same time has been a Godsend as far as testing various type of materials and the stators for any leakages.
My next version will be more refined with a much higher voltage and current capability strictly for testing materials and should I decide to make some large bass panels some time in the future.
jer
Well it costs nothing when you consider the danger. I will probably contact the maker of them and tell him or her my use and buy one or two finished. Perhaps buy one as a kit.
I have looked at the kit built by Jason DIY electrostatic (google) and looked at his construction. This has helped me understand construction. Do you use a copper metal thread all around?
I have looked at the kit built by Jason DIY electrostatic (google) and looked at his construction. This has helped me understand construction. Do you use a copper metal thread all around?
Here are some links that I had compiled and one day I will add to them and put them in the permanent thread location.
As they get buried very quickly and are sometimes hard to find most every thing I have done so far is here as well as many others.
It is a great wealth of info,
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/plan...vice-information-reassurance.html#post2205114
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/plan...trostatic-speakers-dummies-3.html#post2557561
here is my circuit,
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/plan...tor-insulation-mylar-coating.html#post2531218
jer
As they get buried very quickly and are sometimes hard to find most every thing I have done so far is here as well as many others.
It is a great wealth of info,
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/plan...vice-information-reassurance.html#post2205114
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/plan...trostatic-speakers-dummies-3.html#post2557561
here is my circuit,
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/plan...tor-insulation-mylar-coating.html#post2531218
jer
I have not used the charge ring technique in all of my past builds as I rarely found it necessary.
On one occasion using Licron original (not the crystal) the coating had developed a crack along the edge of the frame and stopped it from charging.
To remedy this I just used a thicker coat around the edges and I haven't had a problem since.
It is much thicker than the CRYSTAL formula and I have not had this issue using the Crystal version.
But I do like the concept and I had incorperated it in my last rebuild of one made out of watered down white glue (elmers) and graphite and painted it on with a tooth pick.
It was something that I stumbled upon while playing with different coatings in a discussion using PVA Glue ,is to make a simple conductive paint.
Last year one of the fellow DIYer's had mentioned that he lived in a very high humidity area and had witnessed the corrosion of his copper charge ring after a short period of time.
And Back in 2003 I had wondered about this so I was going to use some gold based paint but it was much too expensive, so I got Nickel Print instead.
But I had found that it was not needed,as it isn't exactly cheap either when you talk about a 20 foot stripe.
So I got by using aluminium foil tape for the connections and they have yet to fail me.
But as aluminium oxide is an insulator it can possibly be a problem in the long run.
But I haven't had any as of yet, Just make sure that the surface is conducting first or scrub it with some fine steel wool if you choose to use it as it will last longer than copper will.
I used to live in Florida and the salt in the air is a big issue.
So,when I discovered the DIY conductive paint I made some stripes on a piece of glass and took some resistance readings and found it that it was quite low.
Low enough that there wouldn't be any issues at such high voltages and will not ever corrode.
It worked perfectly, So this is the method that I will use on all of my builds from now on.
jer
On one occasion using Licron original (not the crystal) the coating had developed a crack along the edge of the frame and stopped it from charging.
To remedy this I just used a thicker coat around the edges and I haven't had a problem since.
It is much thicker than the CRYSTAL formula and I have not had this issue using the Crystal version.
But I do like the concept and I had incorperated it in my last rebuild of one made out of watered down white glue (elmers) and graphite and painted it on with a tooth pick.
It was something that I stumbled upon while playing with different coatings in a discussion using PVA Glue ,is to make a simple conductive paint.
Last year one of the fellow DIYer's had mentioned that he lived in a very high humidity area and had witnessed the corrosion of his copper charge ring after a short period of time.
And Back in 2003 I had wondered about this so I was going to use some gold based paint but it was much too expensive, so I got Nickel Print instead.
But I had found that it was not needed,as it isn't exactly cheap either when you talk about a 20 foot stripe.
So I got by using aluminium foil tape for the connections and they have yet to fail me.
But as aluminium oxide is an insulator it can possibly be a problem in the long run.
But I haven't had any as of yet, Just make sure that the surface is conducting first or scrub it with some fine steel wool if you choose to use it as it will last longer than copper will.
I used to live in Florida and the salt in the air is a big issue.
So,when I discovered the DIY conductive paint I made some stripes on a piece of glass and took some resistance readings and found it that it was quite low.
Low enough that there wouldn't be any issues at such high voltages and will not ever corrode.
It worked perfectly, So this is the method that I will use on all of my builds from now on.
jer
As far as the dangers are concerned,
Yes, there are high voltages and there is always a possibility of getting poked while you are messing with them.
But the current from the bias supply will be quite low to be of any real danger unless you have an health issue with your heart.
Always keep one hand in your pocket when poking around.
All precautions and care should be taken when messing with highvoltages.
The biggest danger that you can incounter is if you should touch a connection of the step up transformer feeding the panel while it is being fed a signal from the amplifier.
And never grab the two panels with both hands while they are being powered as well!
These currents are very high for a high voltage and can knock you on your A$$ !!
These things are no joke so, PLEASE abide by all of the rules when working with these things.
If you are not up to building one from scratch then the kits are a good thing but abit pricey IMHO.
I wish I could give you an exact recipe for my design,But it is something I plan to do in the future.
Also remember that you don't need 5kv to make them work, and, that high of a voltage won't do you any good if your stator coatings can't contain it.
For this reason many stay in th 2kv to 3kv range.
it has been proven very difficult but not impossible to run them up that high as it greatly increases their efficiency.
But your stator to diagphram spacing is going to determine the maximum bias voltage.
For instance the Dielectric Strength of air is about 80v per mil (.001") so the most that I could get in my .070" to .075" is in the order of 5.8kv to 6.5kv including the resistance of the stator coating.
My supply is capable of 7.5kv under these condtion and the air starts too breakdown at this point with the familiar purple glow depending on the humidity conditions at the time.
This is the nice thing about using a variable supply is that you can dial in the maximum voltage as the condtions change.
Also it seems to me that there is a little more detail and dynamic when running them at a higher bias.
But this is subjective and I haven't tested this concept fully yet comparing to having the same SPL level for for different bias levels.
jer
Yes, there are high voltages and there is always a possibility of getting poked while you are messing with them.
But the current from the bias supply will be quite low to be of any real danger unless you have an health issue with your heart.
Always keep one hand in your pocket when poking around.
All precautions and care should be taken when messing with highvoltages.
The biggest danger that you can incounter is if you should touch a connection of the step up transformer feeding the panel while it is being fed a signal from the amplifier.
And never grab the two panels with both hands while they are being powered as well!
These currents are very high for a high voltage and can knock you on your A$$ !!
These things are no joke so, PLEASE abide by all of the rules when working with these things.
If you are not up to building one from scratch then the kits are a good thing but abit pricey IMHO.
I wish I could give you an exact recipe for my design,But it is something I plan to do in the future.
Also remember that you don't need 5kv to make them work, and, that high of a voltage won't do you any good if your stator coatings can't contain it.
For this reason many stay in th 2kv to 3kv range.
it has been proven very difficult but not impossible to run them up that high as it greatly increases their efficiency.
But your stator to diagphram spacing is going to determine the maximum bias voltage.
For instance the Dielectric Strength of air is about 80v per mil (.001") so the most that I could get in my .070" to .075" is in the order of 5.8kv to 6.5kv including the resistance of the stator coating.
My supply is capable of 7.5kv under these condtion and the air starts too breakdown at this point with the familiar purple glow depending on the humidity conditions at the time.
This is the nice thing about using a variable supply is that you can dial in the maximum voltage as the condtions change.
Also it seems to me that there is a little more detail and dynamic when running them at a higher bias.
But this is subjective and I haven't tested this concept fully yet comparing to having the same SPL level for for different bias levels.
jer
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I use that same regulator as the basis in my power supply.
The interfaces that Moray James is referring to are the boxes that have the bias supply ,the huge step up transformers (huge because of the low frequency response required as they are run pretty much full range except one panel I think) and the crossover filter capacitors.
I have all of the data on them but I don't remember the configurations off hand.
jer
The interfaces that Moray James is referring to are the boxes that have the bias supply ,the huge step up transformers (huge because of the low frequency response required as they are run pretty much full range except one panel I think) and the crossover filter capacitors.
I have all of the data on them but I don't remember the configurations off hand.
jer
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JooJoo1234: here is a single site which has lots of info on the Acoustat and the interfaces. Panels are run full range but the interface is a twin transformer design which was granted a patent and is a very clever design. Best regards Moray James.
Izzy Wizzy Audio
http://www.eraudio.com.au/ sells tensilized polyester film and esl speaker kits well reviewed
Izzy Wizzy Audio
http://www.eraudio.com.au/ sells tensilized polyester film and esl speaker kits well reviewed
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Way early but curious... my Insignia 200w solid state amp drives my monitor 10 polks very well. Its only problem seems to be a small heat sink as it shuts itself off on occassion when driving them loud. Will I need a new amp or is it a total guess. I KNOW IT IS NOT GREAT (but stunning with my polks for the price if a bit noisy). But would you guess it is not good enough?
Amplifier Power output, stereo mode, 8Ω, THD 1%, 40 Hz~20 kHz: 2×100W
Total harmonic distortion, 8Ω, 100 W, 40 Hz~20 kHz: 0.04%
Intermodulation distortion, 60 Hz:7 kHz= 4:1 SMPTE, 8Ω, 100W: 0.02%
Input sensitivity, 47 kΩ, Phono (MM): 2.5 mV
Input sensitivity, 47 kΩ, Line (CD, AUX1, AUX2): 200 mV
Signal to noise ratio, IHF “A” weighted, Phono (MM): 70 dB
Signal to noise ratio, IHF “A” weighted, Line (CD, AUX1, AUX2): 95 dB
Frequency response Phono (MM), RIAA, 30 Hz~20 kHz: +/- 3 dB
Frequency response Line (CD, AUX1, AUX2), 20 Hz~100 kHz: +/- 3 dB
Output level AUX1, AUX2 OUT, 2.2 kΩ: 200 mV
Bass/Treble control, 100 Hz/10 kHz: ±10 dB
Amplifier Power output, stereo mode, 8Ω, THD 1%, 40 Hz~20 kHz: 2×100W
Total harmonic distortion, 8Ω, 100 W, 40 Hz~20 kHz: 0.04%
Intermodulation distortion, 60 Hz:7 kHz= 4:1 SMPTE, 8Ω, 100W: 0.02%
Input sensitivity, 47 kΩ, Phono (MM): 2.5 mV
Input sensitivity, 47 kΩ, Line (CD, AUX1, AUX2): 200 mV
Signal to noise ratio, IHF “A” weighted, Phono (MM): 70 dB
Signal to noise ratio, IHF “A” weighted, Line (CD, AUX1, AUX2): 95 dB
Frequency response Phono (MM), RIAA, 30 Hz~20 kHz: +/- 3 dB
Frequency response Line (CD, AUX1, AUX2), 20 Hz~100 kHz: +/- 3 dB
Output level AUX1, AUX2 OUT, 2.2 kΩ: 200 mV
Bass/Treble control, 100 Hz/10 kHz: ±10 dB
Thanks moray for those links and Geraldfryjr I have not hit your links you gave me about your various experiments and what not but will. I have a decent knowledge of the build procedure due to photos and such and have built my schematic of sorts with knowledge of potential problems regarding burs on metal and edges of metal and taping the edges or insulating.... etc etc... I am using plastic that is slightly long and hangin over by a sixteenth. I am just going to buy a variable power supply and then build permanent guts afterwards. Do you all mostly have your electronic guts in a seperate box or is it a part of the frame bottom? Do you all definitely recommend the torroidal transformers.. they are worth it?
Well in truth Moray I should have ordered one of those repair kits probably if enough film and tape is supplied.. oh well. I have at least alot more stuff for many more builds for friends and family if this turns out. I have on order one roll of each ebay.. 25ft 2um and 25ft 6um.
Some 5micron stuff that may turn out to not be tensilized... whoops... sandwich wrap I guess. 16 1 inch wide sheets of 48 inch long clear acrylic. Not expensive at all. And various glues... from what I read polyurethane is great for the mylar so will use this... long dry time though. I also have that spray super glue which is supposed to be good. So... some money lost but some extra stuff... again thanks everyone. I will see this through to the end.
Some 5micron stuff that may turn out to not be tensilized... whoops... sandwich wrap I guess. 16 1 inch wide sheets of 48 inch long clear acrylic. Not expensive at all. And various glues... from what I read polyurethane is great for the mylar so will use this... long dry time though. I also have that spray super glue which is supposed to be good. So... some money lost but some extra stuff... again thanks everyone. I will see this through to the end.
joojoo1234: as to your amp and how well it will do runnng stats there is only one way to find out. Losts of good amps today will run an esl but few sound really good doing so. The narrower the band that you ask your stats to reproduce the happier your amp will be.
Keep your HT supply and transformers in a closed box for saftey reasons metal plastic or wood you want to keep fingers or anything else out.
ER Audio does have 6 micton tensilized film that would be your best bet for strength and ease of use.
I have had excellent success using LePages Press Tite Green water based contact for bonding mylar. It is easy to use has a very long work time once applied can be repositioned if necessary, is 100% non toxic and cleans up with soap and water. 3M has an adhesive (forget the number) which is stronger and which is absolutly perminent but it is expensive. super type instant glues (CA`s) are not a good idea for diaphragm mounting they are generally very thin and will wick onto the diaphragm which will leave a hard sharp edge once cured. Some CA type adhesives can damage polyester film resulting in less strength and tears. To add to this CA adhesives are not good for your health so I avoid them where possible.
Finding tensilized polyester film is very difficult and vendors who don`t care will say that they are when they are not. If you talk directly to the major film manufacturers you will find that it is rarely made these days.
Good luck with your build. Make as many mistakes as you can on the first go around as that`s the best way to learn what not to do in the future. Once you learn what does not work you are left with what does. Best regards Moray James.
Keep your HT supply and transformers in a closed box for saftey reasons metal plastic or wood you want to keep fingers or anything else out.
ER Audio does have 6 micton tensilized film that would be your best bet for strength and ease of use.
I have had excellent success using LePages Press Tite Green water based contact for bonding mylar. It is easy to use has a very long work time once applied can be repositioned if necessary, is 100% non toxic and cleans up with soap and water. 3M has an adhesive (forget the number) which is stronger and which is absolutly perminent but it is expensive. super type instant glues (CA`s) are not a good idea for diaphragm mounting they are generally very thin and will wick onto the diaphragm which will leave a hard sharp edge once cured. Some CA type adhesives can damage polyester film resulting in less strength and tears. To add to this CA adhesives are not good for your health so I avoid them where possible.
Finding tensilized polyester film is very difficult and vendors who don`t care will say that they are when they are not. If you talk directly to the major film manufacturers you will find that it is rarely made these days.
Good luck with your build. Make as many mistakes as you can on the first go around as that`s the best way to learn what not to do in the future. Once you learn what does not work you are left with what does. Best regards Moray James.
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