They are not. Greg noticed that the previous anodizing was also part of the problem. If suspended with wires into the anodizing bath using the center hole, it caused non uniform anodizing layer into the hole, contributing to the hole imperfection and unbalance. Proper anodizing need to be done with a custom rack, supporting the pulleys, which his supplier didn't have. These small parts, high tolerance, seem to be very difficult to get right indeed. He didn't want to take the risk to get some more problem . Since he did all this basically fro free, I can understand. It had been discussed previously into the thread, see Greg post on page 29.
They were done with aircraft grade aluminum that is said to don't have this oxidizing problem. Anodizing was done to be even better was not absolutely necessary. This also had been discussed previously by peoples much more expert than me on the subject, ex. Vinyll-Addict.
They were done with aircraft grade aluminum that is said to don't have this oxidizing problem. Anodizing was done to be even better was not absolutely necessary. This also had been discussed previously by peoples much more expert than me on the subject, ex. Vinyll-Addict.
I may have an intermediate solution for the anodizing. I have some alodine solution at home where I can dip all the pulleys. It will provide corrosion protection and a slight gold finsih. However, the finish won't be uniform. See http://www.rci-products.com/ALODINE.html for some details.
But again, I don't want to cause any problem on the pulleys. I'll ask Greg.
But again, I don't want to cause any problem on the pulleys. I'll ask Greg.
Replacement Pulleys - First Shipping 12 MAY
Sent the pulleys for you guys, check your email. Thanks.
Thuer, Wasted, Doug R, Fisheads, Killowattski, Wuffer, Luvdunhill, Paudux, Pekka, Nameci, Finneybear, Vil.
Don't search for an order, there is none. Just going throught the original GB shipping address, they way I printed them out originally.
Bye.
Sent the pulleys for you guys, check your email. Thanks.
Thuer, Wasted, Doug R, Fisheads, Killowattski, Wuffer, Luvdunhill, Paudux, Pekka, Nameci, Finneybear, Vil.
Don't search for an order, there is none. Just going throught the original GB shipping address, they way I printed them out originally.
Bye.
Shipping cost payment and New Pulleys
I still have 4T and 7S new pulleys if anyone is interested.
Please note that replacement pulleys don't come with the allen keys installed. Remove them from the your defective pulley and re-install them on the new one.
New pulleys will come with them.
Still didn't received shipping costs payment from: Pekka, Nameci, Vil.
I still have 4T and 7S new pulleys if anyone is interested.
Please note that replacement pulleys don't come with the allen keys installed. Remove them from the your defective pulley and re-install them on the new one.
New pulleys will come with them.
Still didn't received shipping costs payment from: Pekka, Nameci, Vil.
Tech support Please
Hi Guys,
I have built the circuit but am having a few problems. Is this the best place to post my questions? Might be useful to others?
To my limited knowledge, the charging side of the circuit looks healthy with 13.6 v out. But motor output is not with only .45v at 33 rpm and .65 at 45rpm?
I have checked solder joints and resister values and collected a load of component measurements but don't really know what to do next.
ic1 pin1=27.5 pin2=14.4 pin4=2.7 pin5=14.4
ic2 pin1=1.8 pin3=1.7 pin5=1.8 pin7=1.8
ic4 pin1=12.7 pin3=1.7 pin5=.6 pin7=.6
ic3 Vout=5.5 and 4.98 when jp2 gnd
q1 c=12.6 b=13.1 e=13.7
q2 c=0.1 b=12.5 e=13.6
q3 c=.6 b=.3 e=0
q4 c=1.8 b=.3 e=0
q5 c=13.7 b=.6 e=.3
q6 c=0 b=3.5 e=0
q7 c=0 b=12.7 e=3.5
q8 c=0 b=0 e=0
i set the vr`s as per the instructions (ic2 pin 6&7 set for 25Kohms) and followed the testing procedures but couldn't get the motor turning?
Any help would be much appreciated.
cheers
Ian
Hi Guys,
I have built the circuit but am having a few problems. Is this the best place to post my questions? Might be useful to others?
To my limited knowledge, the charging side of the circuit looks healthy with 13.6 v out. But motor output is not with only .45v at 33 rpm and .65 at 45rpm?
I have checked solder joints and resister values and collected a load of component measurements but don't really know what to do next.
ic1 pin1=27.5 pin2=14.4 pin4=2.7 pin5=14.4
ic2 pin1=1.8 pin3=1.7 pin5=1.8 pin7=1.8
ic4 pin1=12.7 pin3=1.7 pin5=.6 pin7=.6
ic3 Vout=5.5 and 4.98 when jp2 gnd
q1 c=12.6 b=13.1 e=13.7
q2 c=0.1 b=12.5 e=13.6
q3 c=.6 b=.3 e=0
q4 c=1.8 b=.3 e=0
q5 c=13.7 b=.6 e=.3
q6 c=0 b=3.5 e=0
q7 c=0 b=12.7 e=3.5
q8 c=0 b=0 e=0
i set the vr`s as per the instructions (ic2 pin 6&7 set for 25Kohms) and followed the testing procedures but couldn't get the motor turning?
Any help would be much appreciated.
cheers
Ian
Replacement Pulleys - First Shipping 13 MAY
Sent the pulleys for you guys, check your email. Thanks.
Ed lafontaine, Patriz, Webby, Jlwong, Ligascon, Agent5, Terence8888, Posthorn, Gewa, Secips, Cedus.
Vil indeed got the money. Sorry, my mistake. Thanks...
Webby I'll get back to you tonight or tomorrow, got to leave.
Sent the pulleys for you guys, check your email. Thanks.
Ed lafontaine, Patriz, Webby, Jlwong, Ligascon, Agent5, Terence8888, Posthorn, Gewa, Secips, Cedus.
Vil indeed got the money. Sorry, my mistake. Thanks...
Webby I'll get back to you tonight or tomorrow, got to leave.
Hi Webby. Check the documentation, send me an email, I'll send you all the documentation. There is a step by step troubleshooting tool into the FAQ section. There is also useful information into the PCB assembly instructions.
Basically steps are:
-Check charger, you already did that
-Without any IC inserted, check all IC supply.
-Check the final shunt transistors drive (Q6,Q7,Q8), using supplied procedure (remove IC4, Ground using 1K resistor IC4 socket, pin 1, the motor should start full speed.
-First do the checks without the motor current feedback, install the jumper JP2, pin2-3. Now the motor voltage is reference to gnd. It make checking easier. Then activate the motor current sensing and continue with the tests.
-Double check all small transistors, make sure you installed all of them at the right place and orientation. They are easy to misplaced.
-Naturally, double check the resistors, so they are all correct.
-Use the doc schematic as troubleshooting tool. It has voltages written all over the place. Start from the speed potentiometer, then move up to the control transistor.
There is good possibility that the problem is caused by the DIP switches setting. Try to set all of them closed, so only the speed potentiometer is selected.
Hi Mark. I need your email because the file is too big. I don't have the .sch file because I have only the PCB module of eagle. I can send you the silkscreen, schematic and parts list. But everything is included into the documentation. Bas Horneman website use to have the file. I'll check with Bas.
Basically steps are:
-Check charger, you already did that
-Without any IC inserted, check all IC supply.
-Check the final shunt transistors drive (Q6,Q7,Q8), using supplied procedure (remove IC4, Ground using 1K resistor IC4 socket, pin 1, the motor should start full speed.
-First do the checks without the motor current feedback, install the jumper JP2, pin2-3. Now the motor voltage is reference to gnd. It make checking easier. Then activate the motor current sensing and continue with the tests.
-Double check all small transistors, make sure you installed all of them at the right place and orientation. They are easy to misplaced.
-Naturally, double check the resistors, so they are all correct.
-Use the doc schematic as troubleshooting tool. It has voltages written all over the place. Start from the speed potentiometer, then move up to the control transistor.
There is good possibility that the problem is caused by the DIP switches setting. Try to set all of them closed, so only the speed potentiometer is selected.
Hi Mark. I need your email because the file is too big. I don't have the .sch file because I have only the PCB module of eagle. I can send you the silkscreen, schematic and parts list. But everything is included into the documentation. Bas Horneman website use to have the file. I'll check with Bas.
testing circuit
Hi Sylvain,
Thanks for the advice.
I have tacken the IC`s out and connected a 1k resister to IC4 pin1 and ground, still no voltage on the motor connector.
I am not very good at reading the schematic, so am i right suspecting
q6 c=0 b=3.5 e=0
or
q7 c=0 b=12.7 e=3.5
And that would stop q8 producing a voltage?
q8 c=0 b=0 e=0
What would be the voltages to check to confirm this?
Many thanks
Ian
Hi Sylvain,
Thanks for the advice.
I have tacken the IC`s out and connected a 1k resister to IC4 pin1 and ground, still no voltage on the motor connector.
I am not very good at reading the schematic, so am i right suspecting
q6 c=0 b=3.5 e=0
or
q7 c=0 b=12.7 e=3.5
And that would stop q8 producing a voltage?
q8 c=0 b=0 e=0
What would be the voltages to check to confirm this?
Many thanks
Ian
The latest version. I deleted the 1.3 version.TT_Motor_Controller_SB_Doc_Ver_1.4.pdf
The full path http://www.basenjes.de/tubes/data/sb/TT_Motor_Controller_SB_Doc_Ver_1.4.pdf
The full path http://www.basenjes.de/tubes/data/sb/TT_Motor_Controller_SB_Doc_Ver_1.4.pdf
