I will admit I did not do a huge amount of price hunting, just a few googles and ebay check to get a rough price guide. I ended up getting them from Elite electronics at $179 inc postage each. Took 4 working days to get to me.
JBL GTO1214 12 GTO Series Subwoofer - $179.00
could have probably done a little better on price but I was too busy to go further with hunting. I have no doubt you might be able to get them cheaper and yes the price is very high compared to American prices but I needed them fast.
Edit, Elite Electronics is also on ebay but I preferred not to buy through ebay and just went to their on-line store.
JBL GTO1214 12 GTO Series Subwoofer - $179.00
could have probably done a little better on price but I was too busy to go further with hunting. I have no doubt you might be able to get them cheaper and yes the price is very high compared to American prices but I needed them fast.
Edit, Elite Electronics is also on ebay but I preferred not to buy through ebay and just went to their on-line store.
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Have a good time. I can't stand recording bands, "separate amps and egos to suit!". My main recording gig now is a symphony orchestra.
Don't rush the woodwork, you put a lot of time and effort into researching and settling on a design with a lot of experienced advice. It's your first build so take your time and get it right.
I'm off to Rainbow Serpent Festival, PA spotting ;-)
Home | Rainbow Serpent Festival
cheers,
col.
Don't rush the woodwork, you put a lot of time and effort into researching and settling on a design with a lot of experienced advice. It's your first build so take your time and get it right.
I'm off to Rainbow Serpent Festival, PA spotting ;-)
Home | Rainbow Serpent Festival
cheers,
col.
Sounds like fun COl, have a great time. Its my first full band recording so far!
As for the build i will. Although Im not so worried about its aesthetics more its sonic characteristics. The one thing Im worried about is when I put the lid on (or final side) due to any misalignments when compared to the base sheet. Its easy to glue and nail all the angles of wood on the base sheet but they might be slightly off when the top sheet goes on and therefore I may not be nailing the sheet in because of the middle angles being out of line...
In other words If you were to draw out the diagram on both side panels (the biggest sides) you will nail and glue the middle panels perfectly on one of the side pannels (making it the bass panel) but you wont be able to see if it aligns with the other final panel (except for the outer 4 middle panels as you can see them obviously)...
If that makes any sense lol But I will be very careful when it comes to that and my uncle (the wood worker) should be able to help do a great job so that all the pieces align on the bottom the same as the top.
Edit, I guess bracing should help keep things aligned heaps too.
As for the build i will. Although Im not so worried about its aesthetics more its sonic characteristics. The one thing Im worried about is when I put the lid on (or final side) due to any misalignments when compared to the base sheet. Its easy to glue and nail all the angles of wood on the base sheet but they might be slightly off when the top sheet goes on and therefore I may not be nailing the sheet in because of the middle angles being out of line...
In other words If you were to draw out the diagram on both side panels (the biggest sides) you will nail and glue the middle panels perfectly on one of the side pannels (making it the bass panel) but you wont be able to see if it aligns with the other final panel (except for the outer 4 middle panels as you can see them obviously)...
If that makes any sense lol But I will be very careful when it comes to that and my uncle (the wood worker) should be able to help do a great job so that all the pieces align on the bottom the same as the top.
Edit, I guess bracing should help keep things aligned heaps too.
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Hi reminence,
If you post an HR input screen of what you are building I can help you with the enclosure stuffing matter by using the MJK programs but I'm lost
in this thread cause I cannot figure out what you are building.b
post 38 has all the details:
Although I would have preferred a ppsl integrated t-tqwt or at least opposing dual drivers it seamed to be too much hassle or too hard, not to mention unable to get to drivers easily once built so thats why I'm building that one.
However Oliver's designs have shown me where to put the stuffing and how much of it it doesn't tell me how to attach it or even if not to attach it at all.
Although I would have preferred a ppsl integrated t-tqwt or at least opposing dual drivers it seamed to be too much hassle or too hard, not to mention unable to get to drivers easily once built so thats why I'm building that one.
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Hi reminence,
Post #90: "...whats the best way to attach the stuffing..."
The fiberfill stuffing doesn't have to be attached, but it may be a good idea to staple batting in place around the S1 area, and the back of the drivers. The rest should just be a loose fill, e.g.: weave it through the braces. You can also vary the density from the closed end (S1) to the end of the filling from dense @ closed end to not so dense where the duct transitions into an open duct. Try to stay close to the general rule of 1/2 lb per 1 ft^3 (so, about 1 to 1.5 lb).
I'm sure bjorno can give you a more precise number.
Regards,
Post #90: "...whats the best way to attach the stuffing..."
The fiberfill stuffing doesn't have to be attached, but it may be a good idea to staple batting in place around the S1 area, and the back of the drivers. The rest should just be a loose fill, e.g.: weave it through the braces. You can also vary the density from the closed end (S1) to the end of the filling from dense @ closed end to not so dense where the duct transitions into an open duct. Try to stay close to the general rule of 1/2 lb per 1 ft^3 (so, about 1 to 1.5 lb).
I'm sure bjorno can give you a more precise number.
Regards,
pull clasps! although all the ones I have found are too expensive, and two layers of foam seal!
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
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Hi reminence,
Can't say I like the idea, but you can always try. To my mind attaching a large panel to a horn path with a few clasps is just not enough.
I'll attach a sketch for the typical screw locations for a removable panel which is mounted to internal 1-1/2" blocking at the top and bottom, and the 3/4" sides of a box left and right. On your box that would be an access panel to get to the fiberfill. For a good seal you can use, e.g.: weather stripping, or rubber/silicone splicing tape.
Anyway, have at it. Regards,
Can't say I like the idea, but you can always try. To my mind attaching a large panel to a horn path with a few clasps is just not enough.
I'll attach a sketch for the typical screw locations for a removable panel which is mounted to internal 1-1/2" blocking at the top and bottom, and the 3/4" sides of a box left and right. On your box that would be an access panel to get to the fiberfill. For a good seal you can use, e.g.: weather stripping, or rubber/silicone splicing tape.
Anyway, have at it. Regards,
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