20-30hz tapped horn for studio with ande drivers

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Hi reminence,

The T-TQWT is bjorno's specialty, he has suggested that particular layout many times; maybe he'll chime in on this subject for your application. For general information and references see these threads:

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/subw...band-w8q-1071f-8-x-12-box-reccomendation.html, and

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/subwoofers/188283-fiddling-hornresp-peerless-831759-a.html

The simulation is for Xmax (Hornresp: 11.0991mm @ 38Hz) @ 250W into 8 Ohm. Obviously it depends totally on the quality of the data. The best first step would be to measure the T/S parameters.

By the way, even a dual driver version (e.g.: push-pull) would be only 260 L_net (Hornresp).

Regards,
 
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Hi,

FYI, Another Ande LB1560 T-TQWT design:

b:)
 

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Here's a thought for you. The LB1560 looks on paper like a great driver.... how about a djk PPSL cabinet? Then your drivers can work for either the TH or the PPSL?

In about 300liters you can PPSL a couple drivers and get flat down to about 28hz.

Im still very interested in this design, I bet it will be heaver and less portable than I wanted but after reading much on the ppsl design I have become entranced with the relatively simple and small boxes that go very low and have less distortion than horns!

considering that two lb1560=24kg how much weight would you estimate the whole box to be?
 
Hi,

FYI, Another Ande LB1560 T-TQWT design:

b:)

As far as I can tell the t-tqwt design needs a lot of tweaking and damping to get right. This doesn't work well with me as I know I lack finesse and patience haha

Also would I be wrong in differentiating this between a tapped horn by moving the speaker position to half way and the mouth as apposed to both ends in a tapped horn?

I would assume that by doing this the box ends up resonating or having positive phase relationships in half the length than a tapped horn, or at least for the back end of the horn.
 
Hi reminence,

Post #24:"...the t-tqwt design needs a lot of tweaking and damping to get right."

If you compare the SPL responses of e.g.: the 212 Kraken (485.837 L_net) v. a Dual LB1560 T-TQWT (260.603 L_net), I think that is pretty much a wash as far as tweaking is concerned. Both benefit from some absorptive treatment in the horn path, and both need steep high and low cut filters.

Regards,
 

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So a t-tqwt does not need much tuning? I am surprised that two of the much larger and more powerful ande drivers don't give much more volume.

hmm Im curious now, what about a ppsl tapped horn? is it possible & has it been done?

Also what is considered the most efficient enclosure design for subs regardless of any other characteristics?
 
Decided to go with the kraken 112 for a first build. I would go for the full thing but havent got the room for it not to mention the ability to easily move it...

Once the project is done I will look into some awe inspiring very loud and low (probably big and heavy) ande 1560 boxes, maybe dags 40hz one, or maybe ppsl.

Thanks everyone,

Jaye
 
Hi reminence,

20Hz is too low for this driver in a bass reflex box, and that is basically what a vented PPSL is. If you're trying to go that low with the Ande LB1560 you'll need to go with the T-TQWT, and even then the mid-20s is about the most you should consider. You could be the first to build a PPSL-T-TQWT :).

Regards,
 
Hi reminence,

For a single T-TQWT with the Ande LB1560 about 125 L_net, for a double about 260 L_net. Note that bjorno's in Post # 22 is a bit smaller.

For the JBL GTO1214: I ended up with 211 L_net for a home theater version that goes down to about 15 Hz, and 181 L_net for a dual with F3=20Hz (which is what I would probably recommend). So quite similar.

I have not done a full design/drawing to see how the drivers would fit, etc., obviously, you can push the response up and down a bit to suit your requirements, and to fit whatever final layout/space requirements.

Regards,
 
181 L_net for a dual with F3=20Hz (which is what I would probably recommend)

That's the one I would chose too, I would go for the original kraken but its way too huge. Even though I dont know much about litre-age I bet this design would be much smaller no?
edit, ss15 is 210L so this design is looking very good!

If you cant think of any reason why this hybrid design might not work I might just build it. Im betting that ppsl and t-tqwt designs both have the advantage of clarity and less distortion so both together appeals greatly for a studio design.

Oh and I ordered the dbx RTA-M mic to do measurements :D
 
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Hi reminence,

Post #34: "...If you cant think of any reason why this hybrid design might not work I might just build it..."

Should work well.

The layout will be more difficult than for a simple T-TQWT. NEO Dan designed a very straight forward T-TQWT box for ODougbo that you could use as a starting point, Post #50:

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/subwoofers/203345-isobaric-less-then-20-a-5.html

It'll be a bit of a puzzle to add the PPSL feature to it, but it should be possible :)-)).

I've been doodling on T-TQWTs for a while, here are two examles, Post #50:

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/subwoofers/198056-th-t-tqwp-5.html

The T-TQWT should work fine in a studio environment, especially in multiples.

Regards,
 
Hi reminence,

Here is my first stab at it, a simple folded T-TQWT. Gross volume is 238.7 L. It should be able to handle 500W without exceeding Xmax in its passband.

The size could be slightly modified to provide for better wood usage. The driver that sits further away from the mouth could be reversed for improved distortion cancelling, but that will require a 3/4"-1" shim, and it will restrict the duct, so it would have to be tried. When building it I would leave one side removable to get to the drivers and filling. It could also be build as a single fold.

Let me know what you think.

Regards,
 

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looks good!

I have not done much research into t-tqwt but it looks different to the other designs I have seen. this looks just like a tapped horn but with the throat getting smaller not larger!

I was thinking to get it ppsl, basically use your design but optimistic for single driver, then double it and have the mouth's meet in the same spot (basically)!
 
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