This is what I have so far. After a bit more research I decided against the FP for the woofer as I would think it would be better served else where for maybe a CD. I am still undecided about a 2-way or 3-way. I find the its mostly dependent on the woofer I choose. Attached are the drivers I'm considering. Haven't got to the CD's yet.
... I do think my budget build is quite good, maybe a bit "over the top". If I where to do it again I could settle for the Fane 12-250TC and some double 12" for bass duties for each channel. I will never be able to push my 3x15" (two-way setup) per channel to anywhere near max volume. On the other hand, it does sound very dynamic, effortless, natural.
I also use the Fane and 2 12 inch for low freqs.
Fane Sovereign 12-250TC for 100hz-18khz tops.
A 12 inch (the box Speaker 12-280/8-W) in a 6th order bp for 65-100hz kicks.
And a 12 inch (Alpine SWG-1244) in a 6th order bp for 30-65hz subs.
The setups I really struggled to decide between was actually:
1. The Fane build that is currently in my main listening area. (one FC152 and two 15-400 per channel for those who do not know)
2. A Seas build, with one FA22RCZ and two A26RE4 per channel.
I do not regret going for the Fane build, and would probably be equally satisfied with the Seas. It was a very tough choice, the reason I went with the Fane build was that it was more in line with my original, but highly unrealistic, goal (100db/2.83v from 40hz-10khz in under 300 liters per channel). Turns out it was not quite as impossible as imagined.
1. The Fane build that is currently in my main listening area. (one FC152 and two 15-400 per channel for those who do not know)
2. A Seas build, with one FA22RCZ and two A26RE4 per channel.
I do not regret going for the Fane build, and would probably be equally satisfied with the Seas. It was a very tough choice, the reason I went with the Fane build was that it was more in line with my original, but highly unrealistic, goal (100db/2.83v from 40hz-10khz in under 300 liters per channel). Turns out it was not quite as impossible as imagined.
Last edited:
I also would have chosen Fane.
3 pairs of 15 inch speakers.
Very nice.
I might order them also and A/B them to my 12 inch rig.
Yes, the Fane FRs are pretty efficient.
If paired with multiple subs 100db should be no problem.
I feel this should have received an answer earlier, but are you also new to speaker design? How about crossover design? This may be the biggest stumbling block.
I'm just concerned how this thread mostly reads like a parts wish-list so far, with hardly any design goals stated, which IMO should come first, with suitable parts following.
Several members have replied with what appear to be complete builds, worked out including crossover. With the caveat that I did not look these over other than what was in the posts, I'd suggest going with one of these if either of my above questions has "yes" for an answer.
I don't want to sound like a downer here, but if you are serious about spending lots of time designing, building and measuring a solid pair of speakers, as well as spending a non-negligible amount of money doing so, I just think you should start out correctly.
Last edited:
My apologies to those who I may have offended. I thought this would have been a lot easier to figure out. I get set on one thing and make circles on weather its the right choice. I have learned about a few brands I never thought of. I really appreciate the contributions so far and have looked into each driver so far mentioned including anther new brand Fane. I will continue to do research on anything else listed and may take time from posting as to not give anyone the run around. I also feel like I need to do more research and investigating on my part.
Agian sorry, ignore me if you feel so inclined, I understand.
Agian sorry, ignore me if you feel so inclined, I understand.
Last edited:
So you are back to a 2way? 
I'm not offended but IG does have a point: Things would be a lot easier if we'd know some basic things like budget, 2- or 3-way, how loud, how low etc.
Either way the cheapest feasible 15" 2way I can come up with is this:
FaitalPro 15FH510 at about $260 each, crossed steeply at 900Hz to BMS4550 which comes in at $150.
The only 1" horn I could find which are large enough to cover from 900Hz were the Dayton H812 for $10 and the SEOS-15 from diysoundgroup.com for $36.
Total on drivers per speaker $420-446.
I'm not offended but IG does have a point: Things would be a lot easier if we'd know some basic things like budget, 2- or 3-way, how loud, how low etc.
Either way the cheapest feasible 15" 2way I can come up with is this:
FaitalPro 15FH510 at about $260 each, crossed steeply at 900Hz to BMS4550 which comes in at $150.
The only 1" horn I could find which are large enough to cover from 900Hz were the Dayton H812 for $10 and the SEOS-15 from diysoundgroup.com for $36.
Total on drivers per speaker $420-446.
my experience,
Its better to build as per the design as posted by well known designers or go with kits available with madisound or some such stores..
Unless you have measurement equipment and have lot of experience with simulations and measurements, speaker designing is no easy task.
I went your way and designed my own speakers with drivers available locally...
I had to spend a lot on XO components , and lots of hard work and listening tests+measurements with (cheap) equipment that I had (and wondering a lot about unexplained, weird FR), until I got the sound I wanted. Yes, many many iterations+simulations.
Although it was a learning experience, I didnt go the same path for my next speaker builds and just copied the designs which met my requirements. Full stop.
I have been very happy with my builds and didnt have to change anything expect may be box tuning.
regards
Prasi
Its better to build as per the design as posted by well known designers or go with kits available with madisound or some such stores..
Unless you have measurement equipment and have lot of experience with simulations and measurements, speaker designing is no easy task.
I went your way and designed my own speakers with drivers available locally...
I had to spend a lot on XO components , and lots of hard work and listening tests+measurements with (cheap) equipment that I had (and wondering a lot about unexplained, weird FR), until I got the sound I wanted. Yes, many many iterations+simulations.
Although it was a learning experience, I didnt go the same path for my next speaker builds and just copied the designs which met my requirements. Full stop.
I have been very happy with my builds and didnt have to change anything expect may be box tuning.
regards
Prasi
As for the budget its 1000$ max dont need to include the cabnet have most of the wood and all the tooling supply's ext. Im good with a 2 way or 3 way, why I originally wanted a 2 way was because I thought getting the crossover point low would sound better and less effect of a not so good crossover design it would have on the speaker. I would like to get 30hz or low 40hz f3,
I think with the Fatal if I remember correctly might have been with the 400fp 15 didnt go that low although maybe some manipulation with the cabinet could be achieved at the sacrifice of the frequancy response if im correct. I will recheck and model that driver.
As for the cabinet I am not worried can be as big up to 10 cubic feet if needed.
I have been using bassbox pro for all this. I can also get a few more hz with the dsp maybe. I have 2 Crown PS 400 I can use to biamp. So a minidsp on the woofers would be easy if Im correct.
To clarify I am very familiar with the minidsp and use rew for measurements also have the mic as well.
I think with the Fatal if I remember correctly might have been with the 400fp 15 didnt go that low although maybe some manipulation with the cabinet could be achieved at the sacrifice of the frequancy response if im correct. I will recheck and model that driver.
As for the cabinet I am not worried can be as big up to 10 cubic feet if needed.
I have been using bassbox pro for all this. I can also get a few more hz with the dsp maybe. I have 2 Crown PS 400 I can use to biamp. So a minidsp on the woofers would be easy if Im correct.
To clarify I am very familiar with the minidsp and use rew for measurements also have the mic as well.
how about
Tarkus - undefinition
or
Zaph|Audio SB12.3 ~ SB Acoustics 12", Dual Midrange, 3-Way
or anything palatable from
DIY-Loudspeakers
Tarkus - undefinition
or
Zaph|Audio SB12.3 ~ SB Acoustics 12", Dual Midrange, 3-Way
or anything palatable from
DIY-Loudspeakers
Things become a lot easier if you go active with DSP and in the end probably cheaper than passive and experimenting with a lot of components.
Do the $1000 cover both speakers or each? Drivers only?
If it is per speaker and drivers only you could end up with some very nice 3ways indeed!
If it covers both see my post above.
Many pro drivers come with a choice of ferrite or neo magnets.
Ferrites are no worse for SQ but heavier which is unimportant if you use the speakers at home. They are a lot cheaper though.
Do the $1000 cover both speakers or each? Drivers only?
If it is per speaker and drivers only you could end up with some very nice 3ways indeed!
If it covers both see my post above.
Many pro drivers come with a choice of ferrite or neo magnets.
Ferrites are no worse for SQ but heavier which is unimportant if you use the speakers at home. They are a lot cheaper though.
Last edited:
it covers both speakers just the drivers though. I am wondering if there is a problem with lowering the optimum setting in Bassbox to achieve a lower f3. Meaning if it gives me a vb of 3 cubic feet and that achieves a f3 of 50 hz can I choose the exteded bass option which gives me a f3 of 45hz wth a bigger vb and lower tunning frequancy. Does doing so only effect the frequancy response or does it affect sound quality as well.
Hope that made sense.
Hope that made sense.
Last edited:
- Status
- This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.