luka said:
Luka,
I tried changing the pulley ratios and this worked well. Alternator runs slower, and the engine doesn't stall nearly as easy as with the factory 2.3875" pulley. Engine's pulley is a Ford 302 Crank Pulley (7"dia), mounted to a modified lawnmower blade adapter, for a ratio of 2.93:1. This means that 3600 engine rpms, the alternator was spinning at 10,500rpms! OUCH! With an aftermarket "underdrive" alternator pulley of 3.5", this ratio is reduced to 2:1, reducing the top alternator speed to a more manageable 7500rpms. I would like to reduce this even further to say ~ 1.75:1, giving a top speed of 6300rpms, just about at the alternator's required speed to generate the full 140A output.
Anyway, please give me feedback on the pics.
Steve
. I think if you should leave it at 7500rpm, it is not that much for alternator to run at that speed all the time + better cooling, right?
Paticularly, the Stator. As it produces more power, its I^2R losses go up. Although after reading my last post, I think the delta in power losses (heat produced) is not that much. I was half-asleep when I posted that one. zzzzzzz
I would like to do some re-working of the control panel, though. Maybe make it a little more hi-tech looking.
Update on batteries: I now have 280Ah of storage. A friend recently gave me a nearly-new 6T starting battery, rated at 110Ah. To bring it into perspective, six - 6Ts are used to start an M1 Abrams main battle tank. That' quite a kind of power!. So now I have 170Ah of deep-discharge energy storage-batteries, and 110Ah, (1050CCA) starting power! I'm loaded for bear.
I would like to do some re-working of the control panel, though. Maybe make it a little more hi-tech looking.
Update on batteries: I now have 280Ah of storage. A friend recently gave me a nearly-new 6T starting battery, rated at 110Ah. To bring it into perspective, six - 6Ts are used to start an M1 Abrams main battle tank. That' quite a kind of power!. So now I have 170Ah of deep-discharge energy storage-batteries, and 110Ah, (1050CCA) starting power! I'm loaded for bear.
Paticularly, the Stator. As it produces more power, its I^2R losses go up. Although after reading my last post, I think the delta in power losses (heat produced) is not that much. I was half-asleep when I posted that one. zzzzzzz
I would like to do some re-working of the control panel, though. Maybe make it a little more hi-tech looking.
Update on batteries: I now have 280Ah of storage. A friend who works for the local power company recently gave me a nearly-new 6T starting battery, rated at 110Ah. To bring it into perspective, six - 6Ts are used to start an M1 Abrams main battle tank. That' quite a kind of power!. So now I have 170Ah of deep-discharge energy storage-batteries, and 110Ah, (1050CCA) starting power! I'm loaded for bear.
I would like to do some re-working of the control panel, though. Maybe make it a little more hi-tech looking.
Update on batteries: I now have 280Ah of storage. A friend who works for the local power company recently gave me a nearly-new 6T starting battery, rated at 110Ah. To bring it into perspective, six - 6Ts are used to start an M1 Abrams main battle tank. That' quite a kind of power!. So now I have 170Ah of deep-discharge energy storage-batteries, and 110Ah, (1050CCA) starting power! I'm loaded for bear.
Hi Steve
Abrams uses 6 batteries?! well it is big...Do you happen to know if it has one or more starter motors, and on what voltage do they run on, probably not on 12v sistem.
How much time does this generator of yours work, if tank is full and batteries all full too, before you have to do something?
Abrams uses 6 batteries?! well it is big...Do you happen to know if it has one or more starter motors, and on what voltage do they run on, probably not on 12v sistem.
How much time does this generator of yours work, if tank is full and batteries all full too, before you have to do something?
One starter, six batteries arranged in three sets of 2 batteries in series for a 24/28V system. Starter draws 1.5kA for about 30 seconds until the burner cans kick in.
As for my humble little setup, depending on the load being drawn, if it draws, say 500W continuously (w/o the engine), maybe it would last say, six hours. With the engine running, again at 500W, it has a 3/4 gallon tank, so I would say, 4-5 hours on the engine, and when it dies, the aforementioned six hours. so, about 10 hours, max. These numbers are approximatons, because I have never really tried to run it out to the max time/power. If I have a chance to soon, I will test it out.
As for my humble little setup, depending on the load being drawn, if it draws, say 500W continuously (w/o the engine), maybe it would last say, six hours. With the engine running, again at 500W, it has a 3/4 gallon tank, so I would say, 4-5 hours on the engine, and when it dies, the aforementioned six hours. so, about 10 hours, max. These numbers are approximatons, because I have never really tried to run it out to the max time/power. If I have a chance to soon, I will test it out.
Hi
Wow now that is long time I think with so much power. Maybe you should lower speed to 6300rpm, probably save some fuel, which would give you several more minutes of running with engine.
Do you have option of running engine at lower speeds if demand for power is not big, even if alternator wouldn't be working at max current?
Wow now that is long time I think with so much power. Maybe you should lower speed to 6300rpm, probably save some fuel, which would give you several more minutes of running with engine.
Do you have option of running engine at lower speeds if demand for power is not big, even if alternator wouldn't be working at max current?
Yes, that was the whole idea with going with an alternator-battery-inverter setup, so I could slow down under light loads. At present, I don't have a servo controlling the engine's throttle, just manual control. If the opportunity presents itself in the future, I would like to add some form of mprocessor control, but that's not in the cards for the near-term future. At a low loads, the engine idles at about 800-1000RPMs, just above the volume of a brisk conversation.
At max load, I'm putting it at 3600-3800RPMs, and it's kinda loud, but I'm working on quieting that.
At max load, I'm putting it at 3600-3800RPMs, and it's kinda loud, but I'm working on quieting that.
Also had to change out the regulator- nasty popping noises coming from the inverter because the alternator's output voltage was approaching 15.1V. 
Switched it out for the regulator I had in my other CS-144, and new output voltage settles down to ~14.4V, much more manageable. Apparently, the Xantrex doesn't like anything over 15V, because the inverter's LCD controller display kept flashing "DC-DC Converter Shutdown!".
Switched it out for the regulator I had in my other CS-144, and new output voltage settles down to ~14.4V, much more manageable. Apparently, the Xantrex doesn't like anything over 15V, because the inverter's LCD controller display kept flashing "DC-DC Converter Shutdown!".
Shadie-
Here's the best of both worlds: Find a broken one, get the schematic from the manufacturer (Like Aims). I have a 2500W inverter that is on the fritz, but was able to get the schematics for it. When I get the time, I will try to fix it. Just remember, unless the inverter is labeled specifically "Pure Sine wave" or "Sine Wave" output, assume that it is a "Modified" Sinewave, which means (+) & (-) pulses separated by some deadtime to crudely simulate a real sinewave.
Here's the best of both worlds: Find a broken one, get the schematic from the manufacturer (Like Aims). I have a 2500W inverter that is on the fritz, but was able to get the schematics for it. When I get the time, I will try to fix it. Just remember, unless the inverter is labeled specifically "Pure Sine wave" or "Sine Wave" output, assume that it is a "Modified" Sinewave, which means (+) & (-) pulses separated by some deadtime to crudely simulate a real sinewave.
turn off pulses
well i have been on the road for a couple of months.
i have been trying to get kampenenens to work with an etd-59 and 1turn for the pri and 1.5 turn for the secondary, and i get crazy turn off pulses and ringing.
powering with 12 volts the turn off pulses are like 200 volts.
i was trying to get tight coupling i have tried copper strips, wire, litz everthing.....
well i have been on the road for a couple of months.
i have been trying to get kampenenens to work with an etd-59 and 1turn for the pri and 1.5 turn for the secondary, and i get crazy turn off pulses and ringing.
powering with 12 volts the turn off pulses are like 200 volts.
i was trying to get tight coupling i have tried copper strips, wire, litz everthing.....
Modern power supplies have enough filtering. But filtering can help prevent EMI issues due to coupling from the power cords.N-Channel said:
It's also pretty straightforward to modify an inverter to output 170v DC. However, some power supplies with active PFC (most universal input power supplies) will wait a few zero crossings before starting operation in order to reduce inrush current. DC does not have zero crossings so those power supplies, while otherwise perfectly capable of operation on DC, will not start up. A lightly filtered 170v peak squarewave with just a little dead time is a good compromise that allows power supplies with PFC to start up. It also allows power supplies with voltage doublers to work.
Re: turn off pulses
etd-59 is dual e core and the material is 3c90 (2300) ferroxcube running at 100khz
the suppresors get smokin hot and the spike remains although a little lower but still high enough to punch through(lots of fire and smoke)
jamesrnz said:well i have been on the road for a couple of months.
i have been trying to get kampenenens to work with an etd-59 and 1turn for the pri and 1.5 turn for the secondary, and i get crazy turn off pulses and ringing.
powering with 12 volts the turn off pulses are like 200 volts.
i was trying to get tight coupling i have tried copper strips, wire, litz everthing.....
etd-59 is dual e core and the material is 3c90 (2300) ferroxcube running at 100khz
the suppresors get smokin hot and the spike remains although a little lower but still high enough to punch through(lots of fire and smoke)
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