steve,
i have kinda gotten stuck on the mc33025, i like its method of current limiting versatility.
i have some etd59 double e's and some copper strip about 2 inches wide and 0.025" thick.
i was trying to do too big of step changes in input to output voltages so the toroids gave me trouble.
PLUS!!! my layout really sucked in huge amounts.
I have found that many of my control wiring methods were no good.
i have taken to twisting control grounds and signal together and taking care with ground loops. to get rid of mechanical buzzing due to instabilities.............
my mosfets are stp60nf10, 80 amps 100 volts 300 w 320 amp pulse
my rectifiers are stps80150cw, 2x40amp 150 volt to247 common cathode, one in each leg
i tested it with just 55 amps flowing though it of 13v no boost to see how the temp was, sort of for a baseline...
the strips i used for the high current got to about 130f they are 0.25x.0.025.
the transformer windings got to about 120f the transformer is etd50E-E with 160x#36 "litz" wire.
jim
the rectifiers got to about 130f each drawing roughly 27.5 amps
the inductor is a toroid of about 30x#24 77 material maybe an ft140 or 190 it gets about 115f
i'm not sure where the rectifiers are getting hot at, maybe the common cathode lead is to small for contiuois current, i may parallel another set or go wth a d0-5 stud mount like sd51.
i am running it at about 135khz, the cores seem to calulate out very conservitavly at that power level.
i am running 13 Vin to get 17.5 Vout at 6 amps boost right now to stabilze the control wiring and feed back before moving up.
a fellow ham was watching me last year when a loss of control happened things blew up rather dramatically, when he exclaimed," you just don't let the smoke out, YOU LET THE FIRE OUT TOOO!!!!"
i have kinda gotten stuck on the mc33025, i like its method of current limiting versatility.
i have some etd59 double e's and some copper strip about 2 inches wide and 0.025" thick.
i was trying to do too big of step changes in input to output voltages so the toroids gave me trouble.
PLUS!!! my layout really sucked in huge amounts.
I have found that many of my control wiring methods were no good.
i have taken to twisting control grounds and signal together and taking care with ground loops. to get rid of mechanical buzzing due to instabilities.............
my mosfets are stp60nf10, 80 amps 100 volts 300 w 320 amp pulse
my rectifiers are stps80150cw, 2x40amp 150 volt to247 common cathode, one in each leg
i tested it with just 55 amps flowing though it of 13v no boost to see how the temp was, sort of for a baseline...
the strips i used for the high current got to about 130f they are 0.25x.0.025.
the transformer windings got to about 120f the transformer is etd50E-E with 160x#36 "litz" wire.
jim
the rectifiers got to about 130f each drawing roughly 27.5 amps
the inductor is a toroid of about 30x#24 77 material maybe an ft140 or 190 it gets about 115f
i'm not sure where the rectifiers are getting hot at, maybe the common cathode lead is to small for contiuois current, i may parallel another set or go wth a d0-5 stud mount like sd51.
i am running it at about 135khz, the cores seem to calulate out very conservitavly at that power level.
i am running 13 Vin to get 17.5 Vout at 6 amps boost right now to stabilze the control wiring and feed back before moving up.
a fellow ham was watching me last year when a loss of control happened things blew up rather dramatically, when he exclaimed," you just don't let the smoke out, YOU LET THE FIRE OUT TOOO!!!!"
Hope the fireworks show was worth it. BTW, we will be operating QRP this year, 16A. Our club call is K8UO. I will be on the 40 DIGI station.
Toroids are not meant for wide input-output voltage ratios, as covering the entire core with low number of windings (say, less than 4T) can get tricky, and result in less-than-ideal coupling.
Just a little curious, Why such large currents for a 17.5V 6A output? At low input of 10V, your input current would still be only just under 17A Peak.
Toroids are not meant for wide input-output voltage ratios, as covering the entire core with low number of windings (say, less than 4T) can get tricky, and result in less-than-ideal coupling.
Just a little curious, Why such large currents for a 17.5V 6A output? At low input of 10V, your input current would still be only just under 17A Peak.
Well, 17.5V @ 6A is only 105W. At worst case (taking into inefficiencies) this is still only 17A. Not sure how this translates to 27.5A. Maybe I am missing something. 
Anywho, 135kHz (67.5kHz switching) is pretty good. For the FT-240-77, you will be good for a solid 1.5kW.
Other note- Finished Gen-set. 6HP B&S Mower engine driving Delco 140A Alt charging 170Ah batteries, running Xantrex Prosine 1800. Everything works except for...........................the Alternator!
Making electricity was kinda the whole idea in the first place. Head Scratchin' here.
Anywho, 135kHz (67.5kHz switching) is pretty good. For the FT-240-77, you will be good for a solid 1.5kW.
Other note- Finished Gen-set. 6HP B&S Mower engine driving Delco 140A Alt charging 170Ah batteries, running Xantrex Prosine 1800. Everything works except for...........................the Alternator!
Making electricity was kinda the whole idea in the first place. Head Scratchin' here.
ahhhhhhh........
ok the 27.5 amps came from the static (non-boost) current flow at 55 amps to a load at 13v just to see how the temps would get to, sort of whwrere theweaknessess are so now any additional heat would be from "dynamic" operation.......
it is putting in about 9 amps at 13 to get 17.5 at 6 amps...... still trying to get the pesky noise out of the transfomer......
what kind of alternator do you have? is the feild powered directly by th battery? and do you have 10 ohm to the regulator output? ( if it is a delcotron)
ok the 27.5 amps came from the static (non-boost) current flow at 55 amps to a load at 13v just to see how the temps would get to, sort of whwrere theweaknessess are so now any additional heat would be from "dynamic" operation.......
it is putting in about 9 amps at 13 to get 17.5 at 6 amps...... still trying to get the pesky noise out of the transfomer......
what kind of alternator do you have? is the feild powered directly by th battery? and do you have 10 ohm to the regulator output? ( if it is a delcotron)
It IS a Delcotron. CS-144, 140A model with the PLI(F)S plug. The thin black field wire goes to the battery, via a 10-50W in-line resistor paralleled with the idiot light. The thick, red sense wire goes to the main B+ Binding post, essentially a 3/8" 2.5 inch bolt. I momentarily touched it to B+ and the V(out) jumped from ~12.8V to 14.7V. That was two weeks ago. Now when I touch it, I get just the battery voltage of 12.8V-12.9V. I'm wondering if by momentarily bypassing the resistor-light combo, did I fry the regulator? I need to resolve this issue ASAP, as it is being used for a public event saturday night. UGH!
I hope those reading this thread don't think we're getting off-topic. Siince this deals with +12V systems, it addresses the thread's title: 12v=19v 4,7A.
I need to resolve this issue ASAP, as it is being used for a public event saturday night. UGH! I hope those reading this thread don't think we're getting off-topic. Siince this deals with +12V systems, it addresses the thread's title: 12v=19v 4,7A.
Cool. Thanks! I said "screw it" and went to a local alt/gen/starter rebuilding shop, told them my situation, and they fixed me up. New "411" (standard) regulator: $15.00. Apparently there are fifteen (15) different regulators for the CS-144 series. depending on the use. The '411 is for general charging, electrity generation, & general use. I will repalce it tonight & report back tomorrow. Now back to our regularly scheduled programming............ Also, I will look at that link tonight. THX again!
Also, I will look at that link tonight. THX again!
Jim,
Thanks for the website. I have read the Alternator Theory 101 website, and it has good useful info.
Went to Knapp's Auto Electric, here in Hazel Park, MI and told the tgirl there my problem: she said because I by-passed the light-resistor combo for the field, that I essentailly blew the regulator. No Magic-smoke-letting-out telltale signs, but she seemed sure of herself. Anywho, $15 and case closed.
Thanks for the website. I have read the Alternator Theory 101 website, and it has good useful info.
Went to Knapp's Auto Electric, here in Hazel Park, MI and told the tgirl there my problem: she said because I by-passed the light-resistor combo for the field, that I essentailly blew the regulator. No Magic-smoke-letting-out telltale signs, but she seemed sure of herself. Anywho, $15 and case closed.
James/Luka,
Gen-set is finished and here are the results: 300W for 3.5 hours straight with the engine off. At 170Ah, the pack bottomed out at 11.9V. That was the first night. Showed Dukes of Hazzard and a kid's movie in the back yard until 12:30am (started at 9pm) and had to wait until next morning to start the engine and recharge the batteries. At full throttle, the alternator nearly stalled the 6hp engine. Did the same thing again the next night, but ran for only 2hrs. Batt voltage never fell below 12.4V. As soon as I take some pics of the finished product, I will post them.
For Field Day, we ended running 15A this year. The Gen-set powered our radios for about 11hours before we transferred to another battery pack. I guess Icoms get really squirrelly below 12.0V. If I had N8XJK's booster, I'm confident we would have lasted all 24hrs on the Gen-set's batt pack. N8SA, my station co-chair, suggested a soft-start for the alternator's field when doing BIG loads.
Steve
Gen-set is finished and here are the results: 300W for 3.5 hours straight with the engine off. At 170Ah, the pack bottomed out at 11.9V. That was the first night. Showed Dukes of Hazzard and a kid's movie in the back yard until 12:30am (started at 9pm) and had to wait until next morning to start the engine and recharge the batteries. At full throttle, the alternator nearly stalled the 6hp engine. Did the same thing again the next night, but ran for only 2hrs. Batt voltage never fell below 12.4V. As soon as I take some pics of the finished product, I will post them.
For Field Day, we ended running 15A this year. The Gen-set powered our radios for about 11hours before we transferred to another battery pack. I guess Icoms get really squirrelly below 12.0V. If I had N8XJK's booster, I'm confident we would have lasted all 24hrs on the Gen-set's batt pack. N8SA, my station co-chair, suggested a soft-start for the alternator's field when doing BIG loads.
Steve
luka said:
Alternator is a Delco CS-144, 140A unit. This was GM's highest output OEM unit available without going to an Alternator rewinding shop. Soft-start would involve the byzantine method of control by placing a BIG rheostat in series with the Field wire, limiting the current to the field, and thus, the output of the alternator.
15A = 15-Alpha, or low power (< 5W/per station, and battery power) so we get 5pts. per contact voice, and 10 pts. per contact CW and DIGI.
We had 15 stations, and I chaired the 40M DIGI station. We sucked at it this year. Two years ago, we made 57 contacts. Last year, we made 101 contacts, with a full-wave loop 20 ft off the ground. This year, we made only 21 or 23 contacts (I'm so p1ssed, I can' remember which) using a 5-element center-fed sloper. We could switch between any of the 5 elements for better directionality using a homemade remote antenna switcher. Worked miserably. We could hear just great, unfortunately, no one could hear us. Of course, we're going back to the loop next year.
I have the 2-F schematic on another computer, but it is also posted here on another thread in the Power Supplies forum. I will look for it and post the link to it here.
I have the 2-F schematic on another computer, but it is also posted here on another thread in the Power Supplies forum. I will look for it and post the link to it here.
Hi
But hey thats life, nothing goes right every time. Does the distance to contact matter? Some competitions add the distances from every contact together and that is how you win.
If you could find or email me schematic, that would be great, I will spend few days now to complite double side, most elements SMD, ClassD as I call it, Damp. After that it is finnish for half-bridge, then I will probably start on PFC. Maybe you will share your mistakes, if you had any or problems.
I'm sure it wasn't that bad...
But hey thats life, nothing goes right every time. Does the distance to contact matter? Some competitions add the distances from every contact together and that is how you win.
If you could find or email me schematic, that would be great, I will spend few days now to complite double side, most elements SMD, ClassD as I call it, Damp. After that it is finnish for half-bridge, then I will probably start on PFC. Maybe you will share your mistakes, if you had any or problems.
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