Hi X,
Very kind of you, much appreciated ! As you surmise, my skill was not good enough for the foam path ! I have still this two 10F/8 ... but still want to see them horned as your thread was the origin of my purchase (and the audio tests)
I was thinking to a PRv horn as well in the same price range...
see you;
Eldam
Very kind of you, much appreciated ! As you surmise, my skill was not good enough for the foam path ! I have still this two 10F/8 ... but still want to see them horned as your thread was the origin of my purchase (and the audio tests)
I was thinking to a PRv horn as well in the same price range...
see you;
Eldam
Vented 45L version
I'm finally getting close to finishing my version. I managed to get both pairs of divers (10F/8 and RS225) cheap on eBay, apparently lightly used. I already had spare 45L vented cabinets cut for an 8" driver - I changed the port to suit the RS225 (from memory -3dB around 40Hz or so - it was a while ago). Inspired by XRK971s dagger, I've used two stacking sports cones for midrange enclosures. These are made of some softish plastic and seem very damped, which should be beneficial. Internal volume before damping was around 1.1L.
I'm finally getting close to finishing my version. I managed to get both pairs of divers (10F/8 and RS225) cheap on eBay, apparently lightly used. I already had spare 45L vented cabinets cut for an 8" driver - I changed the port to suit the RS225 (from memory -3dB around 40Hz or so - it was a while ago). Inspired by XRK971s dagger, I've used two stacking sports cones for midrange enclosures. These are made of some softish plastic and seem very damped, which should be beneficial. Internal volume before damping was around 1.1L.
https://www.parts-express.com/prv-audio-wgp14-50-white-2-45-x-45-waveguide-4-bolt--294-2915
$19.99 600Hz cutoff horn for 2" driver
$19.99 600Hz cutoff horn for 2" driver
how do the sound waves know whether to travel right or left around the cone?
and given the differences between north america and europe (left hand drive vs right hand drive) would applying this mod/ tweak give different results depending on where one lives?
do sound waves ever get ticketed for exceeding the speed of sound?
sorry been spending too much time reading the "flat earth" thread now i'm applying failed logic to everything....
and given the differences between north america and europe (left hand drive vs right hand drive) would applying this mod/ tweak give different results depending on where one lives?
do sound waves ever get ticketed for exceeding the speed of sound?
sorry been spending too much time reading the "flat earth" thread now i'm applying failed logic to everything....
You can joke, but the cones 'seem' to be pretty good 
They are made of LDPE and have that soft rubbery plastic feel (like they are designed to be squashed and regain their shape, to a degree). This means they don't really ring/resonate in any way I can perceive when tapping them. Once bolted to the inside of the main cabinet they seem pretty dead. I lined the inside with adhesive foam used for reducing sound from a PC, then some filler from an old cushion.
You can probably tell I'm building these out of odds and ends I have lying around. It's not a scientific venture in any way. I've had the cabinets for years (originally a failed EBS cabinet for a Fostec FE207E) and paid very little for the drivers on eBay. I've got tons of decent crossover caps (motor run, Russian military, ampohm all in oil etc), some unused 4mh inductors, plus a stack of 10ohm resistors.
The nice thing about this build is that I'm not precious about it in any way. I haven't spent a ton of cash buying in parts. I'll use my intuition to throw it together in the best way I can (no iterative testing & measuring) and if it sounds good, woo hoo!
Many thanks to X for sharing his design work - it's much appreciated. I should be done by next weekend so will report back. Wish me luck!
They are made of LDPE and have that soft rubbery plastic feel (like they are designed to be squashed and regain their shape, to a degree). This means they don't really ring/resonate in any way I can perceive when tapping them. Once bolted to the inside of the main cabinet they seem pretty dead. I lined the inside with adhesive foam used for reducing sound from a PC, then some filler from an old cushion. You can probably tell I'm building these out of odds and ends I have lying around. It's not a scientific venture in any way. I've had the cabinets for years (originally a failed EBS cabinet for a Fostec FE207E) and paid very little for the drivers on eBay. I've got tons of decent crossover caps (motor run, Russian military, ampohm all in oil etc), some unused 4mh inductors, plus a stack of 10ohm resistors.
The nice thing about this build is that I'm not precious about it in any way. I haven't spent a ton of cash buying in parts. I'll use my intuition to throw it together in the best way I can (no iterative testing & measuring) and if it sounds good, woo hoo!
Many thanks to X for sharing his design work - it's much appreciated. I should be done by next weekend so will report back. Wish me luck!
You have the right attitude Sharpie. Use whatever you have on hand, improvise, save money, have fun, and enjoy the fantastic sound when done. Sounds like you have plenty of parts on hand for making the passive crossover.
Make sure you don't have a leak from woofer chamber to mid. You don't want the woofer to pressurize the back of the mid/tweeter. Although I think you are doing a center bottom so less pressure on the Dagger than a sealed.
Make sure you don't have a leak from woofer chamber to mid. You don't want the woofer to pressurize the back of the mid/tweeter. Although I think you are doing a center bottom so less pressure on the Dagger than a sealed.
Build finished (for now...). The speakers are up and running in my garage, and sounding as terrible as every other speaker in that environment. I'll give them a couple of days of radio then bring them into the house. Thanks again to X and others for sharing the design and advice - beers on me next time you're in Scotland
Sharpi,
Nice crossovers! Those look like 50uF oil filled motor run caps. When you say they sound terrible in your garage - is that because the space is big and reflective? Indoors and with a good 100w Class AB amp, they should sound very nice in moderate size room. The woofer on top is the correct way to go for transient perfect response. Is it sealed or ported?
Nice crossovers! Those look like 50uF oil filled motor run caps. When you say they sound terrible in your garage - is that because the space is big and reflective? Indoors and with a good 100w Class AB amp, they should sound very nice in moderate size room. The woofer on top is the correct way to go for transient perfect response. Is it sealed or ported?
The motor run caps are a matched pair of 60uF GE polypropylene in oil (actually both just over 58uF). Resistors are Ohmite WN except for zobel 10ohm, which is a 1W metal film. Zobel caps are matched K75-24.
My garage is 9.6m long with solid concrete floors and walls. I have a workbench on one side that supports the system, so speakers fire across the garage rather than down the length. It's a horrible acoustic environment and all speakers sound hollow and chesty, if that makes sense. I'd be worried if they sounded good in there! I'll move them into the house soon hopefully.
My garage is 9.6m long with solid concrete floors and walls. I have a workbench on one side that supports the system, so speakers fire across the garage rather than down the length. It's a horrible acoustic environment and all speakers sound hollow and chesty, if that makes sense. I'd be worried if they sounded good in there! I'll move them into the house soon hopefully.
Please put the speakers on stands for best sound. There will be a bad floor bounce cancellation if left on floor. My stands are about 30in high and driver height (10F) is at about 39in above the floor. Place about 3-4ft from back wall for best imaging. You will hav emaximum baffle step loss this way as it is basically floating in open space. However, the soundstage and imaging are superb in this configuration.
Hi Sharpie,
Any word on how the speakers sound inside the house in their proper place? Listening to mine right now powered by a Pass M2 and my SE Class A CFP preamp. Sounds wonderful. Stereo imaging is superb and resolution of where instruments are located on stage can all be pinpointed. I have a Norah Jones live recording at Newport Jazz Festival playing "Peace". Very nice.
