10F/8424 & RS225-8 FAST / WAW Ref Monitor

I posted this request earlier, but no response, so I'll try again. I have a pair of RS225s and TC9s. I have the itch to build and the weather is looking to be pleasant this weekend. Has a passive crossover for the combination of the above mentioned drivers been done? I don't have a DSP, so I'd like to go passive. I'd try a line level passive XO if there was a schematic of one. I've also given some thought to trying the Mark Audio A7.3 and the CHP-70, but I'd need help with those too.
So... I looked but couldn't find a thread with a passive crossover for the RS225 and TC9 combination. Is there one? If so, will some one point me to it? Or at least let me know what the best crossover point might be? I found a post in which XRK said he liked a 1st order Butterworth at 350Hz. Any newer development?
Thanks,
Mike

EDIT: I found info concerning the RS225 in this thread- http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full-range/292130-ff85wk-rs225-8-passive-fast.html
Still looking for something for the TC9.
 
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I posted this request earlier, but no response, so I'll try again. I have a pair of RS225s and TC9s. I have the itch to build and the weather is looking to be pleasant this weekend. Has a passive crossover for the combination of the above mentioned drivers been done? I don't have a DSP, so I'd like to go passive. I'd try a line level passive XO if there was a schematic of one. I've also given some thought to trying the Mark Audio A7.3 and the CHP-70, but I'd need help with those too.
So... I looked but couldn't find a thread with a passive crossover for the RS225 and TC9 combination. Is there one? If so, will some one point me to it? Or at least let me know what the best crossover point might be? I found a post in which XRK said he liked a 1st order Butterworth at 350Hz. Any newer development?
Thanks,
Mike

EDIT: I found info concerning the RS225 in this thread- http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full-range/292130-ff85wk-rs225-8-passive-fast.html
Still looking for something for the TC9.

It's interchangeable, just drop TC9 in - maybe reduce the padding a bit on the XO for the tweeter.
 
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Hi xrk971,

as you are in your "passive XO phase" :) is the XO from the post 677 your "final passive XO" at the moment? If so, do I read the capacitor combination (C1+C3) for the fullrange driver correctly as 60 microF (57,8+2,2)? Thanks for clarification, Mike

Hi Mike,
Yes - passive XO phase because concentrating most of my time on amplifier designs now and need passive XO to test them out. But seeing that the passive crossover you refer to is still in use and these speakers are still my main speakers for nearly a year now (a record for someone who used to make a new speaker every month) is a testament to how great they sound. They sound much better than most speakers I hear at stores costing in the $3000 range.

The XO design is still the same and the value of 58uF + 2.2uF is because I have a 2.2uF film cap bypass. Aim for about 60uF and however you want to bypass is fine. You may even try 47uF bipolar electrolytic and two 10uF Elna Silmic II back to back to get 5uF in parallel and parallel with a Wima 1uF 63v MKS for the top end.

This crossover in this cabinet with these drivers sounds superb. Btw, the speaker is sitting upside down with woofer above 10F to get the time alignment correct for transient perfect.
 
...and these speakers are still my main speakers for nearly a year now (a record for someone who used to make a new speaker every month) is a testament to how great they sound.

Thanks for clarification, xrk971! I like to follow your projects and see what you mean :). BTW, I really do appreciate your contribution to the community and the support you provide! Thank you! Mike
 
these speakers are still my main speakers for nearly a year now

Do you believe the same approach might be feasible using the RS150 instead of the RS225 in order to realize a smaller speaker ?

Or even the RS150 (there are a couple of version, including a new paper cone) ?
 
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I am sort of going that route with an RS180P and two passive radiators on the back. Much more compact box, but I am making it a 3-way transient perfect with B80 mid and an RS28F in a waveguide tweeter. It's not done yet - the trouble with not having a real woodshop and trying to make wooden speakers. My initial tests are promising but like the adage: "There is no subsititute for displacement" (whether talking about car engines or woofers). A 7in woofer just doesn't move as much air as an 8in. Ideally I would go with 12in even. So good for a smaller room I suppose. RS150 is too small for a balanced FAST in my opinion.

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/multi-way/297171-rs28f-rs180p-b80-hole-filler-3-way.html

576453d1477368142-rs28f-rs180p-b80-hole-filler-3-way-rs28f-rs180p-setup.jpg


B80 would go on top in a teardrop sphere a la B&W.

Backside with two PR's:

576322d1477292904-rs28f-rs180p-b80-hole-filler-3-way-passive-rad-done.png


Some fun with miniDSP as a 2-way speaker (sans B80 hole-filler):

576779d1477555532-rs28f-rs180p-b80-hole-filler-3-way-rs28f-rs180p-lr2-1500hz-xo.png
 
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that RS180P looks like a nice driver,

I have a pair of floorstanding speakers that provide bass, I'm not going to attempt to make some small boxes that can do what they do, but I've never DIY'd a standmount speaker and it appeals. The first order XO also appeals. If I can get down to 60Hz I'd be good with that - a sub could be added later if needed.

Those PR's on the back re really neat. I was thinking I could go bipolar and put a driver on the front and on the back. Puts baffle step to rest and two 6" drivers would give same displacement as an 8". Only trouble is the box size is then even larger.
 
Hi x,

WHat would you think of a non foamed but off shelf 2" throat horn for the 10F/8 ?

WHat should be the length of the horn for a 500/700 to 20 K spl reenforcment please (so not as sexpensive than sota expensive horn à la Le Cleach, etc but more a part-Express one or a second hand markett)? I saw some good cheap one afverted by some members but for compression drivers of course ! Would you advise a horn physical roll off one octave below the electrical filter despite the XMAX of the 10F which is confortable for a horn ?

Need to 3D print an adaptator to have a little 4" conical chamber before the 2" throat (between the throat and the driver)?

Very of topic in relation to the foam horn but still in topic in relation to horn + ScaNsPEAK 10F in FAST conf !

cheers
 
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Hi Eldam,
Good to hear from you. This is a perfect question for the Bookshelf Pointsource Horn thread.

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/multi-way/285030-bookshelf-multi-way-point-source-horn.html

Someone may have actually asked this very question. I think I have done a lot of work on the TC9FD and horns and so has Art Welter. If you want it to go to 700Hz you are talking a good size tractrix horn with 2in throat. I looked around and a quick search shows this 2in horn that is aluminum for $32.

Audiopipe 6" Octagon High Frequency Aluminum Horn for 2" Bolt On Exit Drivers | eBay

$_1.JPG


I don't think it will go to 600Hz though.
 
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