10F/8424 & RS225-8 FAST / WAW Ref Monitor

Leif I was considering using one of augerpro’s 3D printed waveguides with the SB26 tweeter and aiming for 1.2-1.4k hz crossover with some spare rs225-4’s I’ve got. Also handily helps time align the drivers. Might be something to consider?
 

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just out of curiosity would you reckon the 10f/rs225 TL also works with a horn loaded compression driver for the mids and highs instead of the 10f? if so does this affect the TL because the sports cone wouldnt be in the design?
and then a sidenote if i where to build these: i live in europe and the closest thing we have to 3/4 ply is 18mm when if you convert 3/4 to metric it comes out to 19,05 mm. so has anyone allready converted the plans to metric :)
 
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just out of curiosity would you reckon the 10f/rs225 TL also works with a horn loaded compression driver for the mids and highs instead of the 10f? if so does this affect the TL because the sports cone wouldnt be in the design?
and then a sidenote if i where to build these: i live in europe and the closest thing we have to 3/4 ply is 18mm when if you convert 3/4 to metric it comes out to 19,05 mm. so has anyone allready converted the plans to metric :)
The TL is for the RS225 woofer and this is a FAST/WAW speaker design. Meaning that the midrange/tweeter works above the woofer at a rather low crossover frequency.

If you want to use a horn loaded compression driver, pick a big concentric one that goes low down to 700Hz minimum. Design for a crossover above this at 1kHz or so. You will have the advantage of time alignment since the CD will be offset behind the woofer.

You will have to redo the XO yourself. But try to use one that allows the speaker to be transient perfect.
 
I'm thinking of building keantoken's 225-8/ FD18 build from parts at PE. The XO design calls for an 11 Ohm resistor and an 120 Ohm resistor.

PE have an 120 Ohm 10w 5% wire wound resistor.
No 11 Ohm at PE. I could do two 22 Ohm 10w resistors in parallel. Or should I just get the resistors at Mouser / Digi? What watt rating should I look for?
 
Also interested in building keantoken's 225-8/ TC9FD version (have purchased drivers)

Has anyone out there built a pair & had a chance to compare with X's original TL design - either 10F or B80 based ?

(not trying to start a competition here, just get some independent verification :) )
 
Hi,
It seems like a great speaker, so I intend to give it a chance, the TL version.
I'd like to inquire if it still will be ok if I modify the plans a bit. I'd prefer to have the speaker wider by 1 inch. I understand that with the very crossover the frequency response may be slightly different - and that is not a problem for me, what bothers me is the proper functioning of the transmission line. My reasoning is the important value is cross sectional area of the tunnel and widening the enclosure I must adjust the depth, for example the rear section, which is now 6,25 x 8,5 should be 5,59 x 9,5 to preserve the cross sectional area. What cannot be adjusted easily are the bottom section (shorter by ~1,5inch) and the last two parts of the tunnel (shorter by 0,8inch). How critical would that be?
 
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The TL cross section was computer designed with Akabak and the it is a tapered TL design - and is tapered (cross section getting smaller) on purpose to give the deep and balanced bass the design has.

Are you saying you think modifying the TL cross section vs length function by making it wider near the exit is better? Have you done simulations? You can do a lot without changing width.

It’s DIY and you are free to do as you please but it’s not the same TL if you change key dimensions such as the baffle width and cross section area. Baffle width change means the XO won’t be the same.