Remeber I am building a stereosystem to play music on in a 16sqm room. I can't afford those really expensive subwoofers now, I'm only 17 and have no income.
I can't place five subwoofers around my room. The only place I have available is underneath front speakers and on the right hand wall between me and the speakers.
Regarding DIY Sound group tweeter I haven't seen it yet. Looked around on their website but found nothing. Never seen any links to it either.
Which woofer did you recommend? Frequency and impedance graphs aren't the only factors saying how good a driver will sound. Have you heard the driver yourself and compared to other similar drivers?
That's cool. The trio 12 ain't a bad choice in that case.
Email erich. he'll give you the info you need.
faital 12HP520
Of course not. However they are a very good indicator of diffraction cancellations, as well as surround/cone/dust cap/spider resonances and also inductance based distortion. There is a rather strong correlation to SQ. That said some of my favorite drivers are all metal cones, which look awful on a FR graph before the crossover. If sensitivity were higher i would love to attempt a 2-way using a Dayton RS270 or Seas W26EX001. it'd be crazy to attempt though without very aggressive filtering.
No, but I have heard enough drivers, and grasp enough, that i'd pretty confident with that choice. If you want to go with the rcf go for it. The same question applies to yourself, by the way. how do you know for sure you're getting the best value for your money? RCF makes fine drivers, as do BMS, Beyma, B&C, Faital, JBL, Acoustic Elegance, TAD, PHL, Radian. How are you so sure they sound better than an Eminence Deltalite, or where they rank among each other?
Honestly, unless you've got 50+ drivers laid out in front of you with well designed custom crossovers for each one, and an instant switching machine, and a very good ear, you'd be surprised how similar truly good drivers with demodulation sound. IMO it makes sense that drivers are designed nicely enough that a good crossover for them is not overly difficult, unless you have heard in an instant level-matched comparision the superiority of A over B. Which as Geddes showed when he compared $6000 TAD drivers to $500 B&C drivers, is not easy to do.
Pick drivers that will give you flexibility unless you're VERY sure of the results. That flexibility will reap dividends in the final project.
I will email this Erich.
I did not find any driver called 12HP520 but I did find 12FH520. I have modeled 18Sound 12ND930, Faital pro 12FH520, and RCF L12L750 and frequency wise in a 25l sealed box with LT EQ to bring down f3 to ~81Hz they all are much the same. Frequency and group delay graphs are all the same for all. The thing that differs is sensitivity, impedance and impedance phase.
If just looking at frequency, cone excursion and group delay it makes sense to just pick the cheapest of them all. But since there are pretty large difference in impedance, maybe that's not the case. I don't know exactly what impedance peaks does to the sound, will anybody enlighten me?
I did not find any driver called 12HP520 but I did find 12FH520. I have modeled 18Sound 12ND930, Faital pro 12FH520, and RCF L12L750 and frequency wise in a 25l sealed box with LT EQ to bring down f3 to ~81Hz they all are much the same. Frequency and group delay graphs are all the same for all. The thing that differs is sensitivity, impedance and impedance phase.
If just looking at frequency, cone excursion and group delay it makes sense to just pick the cheapest of them all. But since there are pretty large difference in impedance, maybe that's not the case. I don't know exactly what impedance peaks does to the sound, will anybody enlighten me?
Don't worry about the impedance peak in the bass.
Focus on the impedance rise in the midrange. the driver with the least rise in impedance will be a good indication of ideal demodulation performance. The best of course is Acoustic Elegance with Apollo upgrade.
WinISD will not model this for you though. you will need mfg spec sheets.
See Piclair.com - Share what you see! for impedance graph. The purple one is the CSS TRIO12.
All woofers in 25 litres sealed enclosures.
All woofers in 25 litres sealed enclosures.
Does not exist. Did you mean Faital Pro 12FH520?
It sure seems as a good driver indeed. But which tweeter and waveguide should I mate it with?
Yes.
The answers are already in this thread, you just need to give it a second read. The rest is all up to you.
Celestion CDX1-1745, B&C DE250, Eighteen Sound ND1424BT, DIY Sound Group tweeter
These are the ones mentioned in this thread. I think the DIY Sound Group tweeter is the cheapest, followed by Celestion, B&C and Eighteen Sound.
The B&C and Eighteen Sound are a little too expensive I think. What about celestion and DIY Sound Group tweeter? I have mailed that guy over at DIY Sound Group but I've had no answer yet regarding the tweeter. Could anybody here give me some more information about it?
These are the ones mentioned in this thread. I think the DIY Sound Group tweeter is the cheapest, followed by Celestion, B&C and Eighteen Sound.
The B&C and Eighteen Sound are a little too expensive I think. What about celestion and DIY Sound Group tweeter? I have mailed that guy over at DIY Sound Group but I've had no answer yet regarding the tweeter. Could anybody here give me some more information about it?
It's basically designed to be a drop in replacement for a De250. Slightly a bit more top-end extension, better build quality, same exit angle.
Just curious what you are doing. After a year and a half, I finally got the seos12 and dna360.
I am going to try generic econowave crossover on my Cerwin Vega D7 cabinet so I can have some noise until I can afford some nice 12's. Even with the generic under 95db econowave crossover, it has to sound better than the horrible mids/highs on the CV's now!
Will be a while until I get it running. I am strapped even for crossover parts.
Are you going to design a passive crossover, or are you going active on the highs?
Curious what woofer you chose for your design.
I am going to try generic econowave crossover on my Cerwin Vega D7 cabinet so I can have some noise until I can afford some nice 12's. Even with the generic under 95db econowave crossover, it has to sound better than the horrible mids/highs on the CV's now!
Will be a while until I get it running. I am strapped even for crossover parts.
Are you going to design a passive crossover, or are you going active on the highs?
Curious what woofer you chose for your design.
Right now I'm travelling around the world, writing this post from Japan. I still have another 7-8 months of travelling left but when I get home I'm thinking of trying to build something with the AE TD15 or TD18 in the bottom, AE TD12 or AE TD15 as midrange and then some compression driver and horn in the top. It all depends though what kind of student accommodation I get and where in the world I end up.
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