Depends on application. For home use below $100 Peerless 2535 is hard to beat.
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I've heard a pile of Synergy and Unity horns, everything from the Lambda Unity to the Danley SH50 to the SPL unities.
Bill's Synergy Horns are right up there. I think the SH50 is a little bit better at "disappearing" due to the much larger mouth, but I think the treble on all of Bill's horns is noticeably smoother. (Likely due to efforts to control diffraction.)
Long story short - they're really tough to beat. I honestly think that if someone mass produced them they would be competitive with speakers costing $50K+
Bill's speakers sound more "hi fidelity" than traditional "hi fidelity" speakers do.
If you can live with a crossover point of about 1200-1500Hz, the JBL 2408H-1 will give you most of that BMS goodness for about 20% of the cost. It's really really nice.
I'm using BMS 4552ND in my current project, but the 2408H-1 is quite competitive with it. The main reason I opted for the 4552 over the 2408H-1 is because I'm 3D printing the waveguides and my software can't do threaded adapters.
Patrick, is there a bolt-on version of the 2408H-1? I can't abide the screw-on types
Unfortunately no, the 2408H line of drivers are all screw-on, I have the 2408H and would like to try a different waveguide but haven’t since all the good ones are bolt-on and I don’t want to change drivers.
Denovo has a nice adaptor that I plan on getting one day and it might just be the right thing for you guys with screw-on drivers too.
I have tested and listened to the N314T-8, it would work well in the SynTripP. The N320T8 and Cp-755Nd also look viable, the CP-855Nd is too deep to fit in the cabinet as designed.
A number of drivers have been mentioned in the recent posts that would not be appropriate for the SynTripP's acoustic crossover point of 900/1000 Hz.
Art
phivates,
No it's more a matter of the extra length the screw-on throat requires between the diaphragm and the horn's throat. It's like having a section of pipe there (actually that exactly what it is!) and in a Unity type horn limits how close you can get the midranges' ports in the horn to the CD's diaphragm. The better bolt-ons have minimal length there.
It also tends to make the higher frequencies more beamy, as their directivity up there is more or less set by that pipe unless you add a diffraction zone there.
No it's more a matter of the extra length the screw-on throat requires between the diaphragm and the horn's throat. It's like having a section of pipe there (actually that exactly what it is!) and in a Unity type horn limits how close you can get the midranges' ports in the horn to the CD's diaphragm. The better bolt-ons have minimal length there.
It also tends to make the higher frequencies more beamy, as their directivity up there is more or less set by that pipe unless you add a diffraction zone there.
Ok I was looking at a co-ax application but your explanation for the Uni-gee makes sense, since a long throat is not what wave guides seem to be about. The 2408 does have a phase plug which extends to the end of the pipe, but these have not survived prosound use, which is why I have a pair to repair. Thanks for the reply
FredM
FredM
I have been using my 2408H with the JBL 6x6 PT waveguide since 2010 if I'm not mistaken and before that I had RS28A and Seas 27TDFC, I have tried going back to the domes a couple of times for comparison but each time they didn't last more than a couple days but I ended up returning to the JBL CD and waveguide, I love them.
I do plan on building another setup for another room eventually with the Seas tweeter loaded on the SEOS 8 waveguide. Unfortunately I don't have the means to build or the room for a Syn setup.
I do plan on building another setup for another room eventually with the Seas tweeter loaded on the SEOS 8 waveguide. Unfortunately I don't have the means to build or the room for a Syn setup.
I think you might be surprised to see the room I have the first SmallSyns in! They were actually built for that room, including being designed to be back against the wall behind them --- the most effective room space saver I know of!
My current setup is a set of bookshelfs (B&C 8PS21 + JBL waveguide) nearfield on a desk setup and with my iMac there's no room left so the speakers couldn't be more than 10,5" wide.
In the future I plan on building another setup for another room and that will have more room for the audio, so perhaps I'll look into the Syns again but I don't have the means to build them and I would have to have someone build them for me but I don't know anyone who can make speaker cabinets around here and building something like this isn't very easy for someone who is not familiar with speaker building.
In the future I plan on building another setup for another room and that will have more room for the audio, so perhaps I'll look into the Syns again but I don't have the means to build them and I would have to have someone build them for me but I don't know anyone who can make speaker cabinets around here and building something like this isn't very easy for someone who is not familiar with speaker building.
Thanks USRFobiwan, but it's not.
It's really messy to work with and needs finishing work.
I tried several materials for mold including gypsym, bondo, cement and liquid rubber
Cement, bondo and gypsum are cracked too easy.
So I place under the cone of the woofer "innovative support system" and use cone as the mold
. It's really messy to work with and needs finishing work.
I tried several materials for mold including gypsym, bondo, cement and liquid rubber
Cement, bondo and gypsum are cracked too easy.
So I place under the cone of the woofer "innovative support system" and use cone as the mold
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Hi Folks
I am looking at building this, but with a slight mod. The subs I have are a little narrower than the full 676mm of the original SynTripP and I would like to be able to stack to tops over the subs. To do this I would need to decrease the width down to 610mm.
Would increasing the height and depth so that the same volume existed in the rear chambers offset any negative effects of a reduced width?
I recognise this will change performance, but might be fun to try Where would you suggest making the adjustments?
I am looking at building this, but with a slight mod. The subs I have are a little narrower than the full 676mm of the original SynTripP and I would like to be able to stack to tops over the subs. To do this I would need to decrease the width down to 610mm.
Would increasing the height and depth so that the same volume existed in the rear chambers offset any negative effects of a reduced width?
I recognise this will change performance, but might be fun to try
Where would you suggest making the adjustments?