Haha. Of course he would. And I might be minimizing but I’m just enjoying the music too much at the moment to care! 
I managed to squeeze in 28 drivers per side wired 7x4. So that worked out well from an impedance perspective as well as literally having drivers floor to ceiling. Well, there’s about an inch on top and bottom.
I managed to squeeze in 28 drivers per side wired 7x4. So that worked out well from an impedance perspective as well as literally having drivers floor to ceiling. Well, there’s about an inch on top and bottom.
Nice to hear you simply enjoy music at the moment think after all the work so far continue that enjoying road for while is deserved and then take the tweaks later as you feel for it.
My comment on shared impedance curve is it looks pretty smooth above resonance spike and that is somehow surprising given the less cavity volume to add damping material, some non smooth area with visible resonance wiggles show up from top resonance spike and down to DC and guess cause is the low volume or line is build as one long cavity or its a combination of both.
Should you try down the road look into get smoother area below resonance spike suggest decrease upper Z limit in DATS software from 20 Ohms to 10 Ohms to get higher visual resolution to base outcome of any mods.
think after all the work so far continue that enjoying road for while is deserved and then take the tweaks later as you feel for it.My comment on shared impedance curve is it looks pretty smooth above resonance spike and that is somehow surprising given the less cavity volume to add damping material, some non smooth area with visible resonance wiggles show up from top resonance spike and down to DC and guess cause is the low volume or line is build as one long cavity or its a combination of both.
Should you try down the road look into get smoother area below resonance spike suggest decrease upper Z limit in DATS software from 20 Ohms to 10 Ohms to get higher visual resolution to base outcome of any mods.
Thanks for the suggestion. To be honest with you, I'm not sure what I would do to try to fix the wiggles at this point anyway. The only thing that I was thinking was to go ahead and increase the volume from the back side by opening up the wall and creating a "auxiliary" volume so to speak. It wouldn't be terribly difficult actually. I'm really happy with the bass extension as is and I doubt I would be able to hear a difference.
But it might be a fun project later down the line. Still need to get the subwoofers in and build the equipment cabinet, and a bunch of other non-audio (gasp!) projects.
But it might be a fun project later down the line. Still need to get the subwoofers in and build the equipment cabinet, and a bunch of other non-audio (gasp!) projects.
New question... not sure if any of you have experience with this. I have my record player connected to my receiver with a PS Audio Nuwave phono converter. I know... a bit backwards to go form vinyl to ADC to receiver but whatever. In any case, I'm trying to get the ADC to send DSD over USB to the computer and play it through Jriver.
I've tried installing the driver for the ADC. And I've followed the instructions for getting the audio options setup as far as setting choosing the player in the audio options as an ASIO device, and selecting DSD bitstream over DoP, and choosing Jriver as the output in the windows sound setup but no joy so far.
Any ideas?
I've tried installing the driver for the ADC. And I've followed the instructions for getting the audio options setup as far as setting choosing the player in the audio options as an ASIO device, and selecting DSD bitstream over DoP, and choosing Jriver as the output in the windows sound setup but no joy so far.
Any ideas?
Actually it's not to bad looking above the impedance peak. If you want to know if it serves a purpose to hunt down wiggles, compare the impedance to your FR curve. Do any wiggles line up with dips in the FR?
The restlessness at the top of the resonance peak probably would have been a little less if you had decided to do your wiring differently. The series/parallel thing vs parallel/series. It was suggested before hand.
You decide.
The restlessness at the top of the resonance peak probably would have been a little less if you had decided to do your wiring differently. The series/parallel thing vs parallel/series. It was suggested before hand.
You decide
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I had to look it up... that's an expensive "toy".
And the info contradicts itself a couple of places.
It says: Asynchronous digital output to 192kHz 24 bit
Which is your USB, or SPDIF.
Then it says: Play live into any DAC with DSD or PCM
But, the output is limited to 192kHz, so DSD wouldn't be possible...
Better get on their forum and ask there.
And the info contradicts itself a couple of places.
It says: Asynchronous digital output to 192kHz 24 bit
Which is your USB, or SPDIF.
Then it says: Play live into any DAC with DSD or PCM
But, the output is limited to 192kHz, so DSD wouldn't be possible...
Better get on their forum and ask there.
I had to look it up... that's an expensive "toy".
Ugh, I know. I couldn't figure out a better way to get vinyl through convolution though.
As Perceval i had to look it up and wow a impressing specs device you have there, looks like it says highest real analog input pass band is always 80khz limited so therefor will think if you adjust its settings to PCM 192kHz and into JRiver shift listening input via "File/Open Live" and choose either "WASAPI Loopback" or "ASIO Line-in" you will end get high quality sound from that input. Can think of if input device have ASIO driver support that this will be the best and fastest one to setup where WASAPI will probably also need your attention about setup Windows default device to be into right rates, and for either to get best results regarding SRC from high input to lower output 48kHz rate you probably have to tweak "DSP Studio/Output Format" settings.
Wouldn't using the "line in" option suggest using an analog port on a soundcard, negating all the analog to digital greatness? You'd have to use some kind of digital in to make use of the features.
As I read it, it would be easier to play each vinyl record once, and just store the digital file for playback.
As I read it, it would be easier to play each vinyl record once, and just store the digital file for playback.
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The final hardware phase of the home theater is well underway. The boxes for the drivers are nearly done. And the holes in the walls for the infinite baffle part of the equation are cut.
Next up is cutting the holes and mounting the drivers. Need to make the frames for the frames for the grill cloth as well.
Then mounting holes into the concrete and the shelving between the cabinets.
Finally, finishing trim work. Still haven’t decided how. Maybe just some darker gray matte paint to match the walls? Open to suggestions.
Next up is cutting the holes and mounting the drivers. Need to make the frames for the frames for the grill cloth as well.
Then mounting holes into the concrete and the shelving between the cabinets.
Finally, finishing trim work. Still haven’t decided how. Maybe just some darker gray matte paint to match the walls? Open to suggestions.
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Thanks... need to redo the grill cloth... although I kinda like the visual impact. The wife, however, is not a fan.
Maybe you could try to match the colours of the furniture that will go in there.
Me, I'm a big fan of dark burned red, so if your couch is that colour, try to match the couch to the arrays.
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The couch is dark grey. The grill cloth I have is between the color of the walls and the couch.
Do you think the color of the cabinet will make a difference. I was thinking about minimizing the reflections so I was leaning towards something darker. I have some walnut I can piece together as a thick veneer of sorts as well as milling pieces for face frames. I would also use it for the shelving between the subs that would support the amps/receiver/PC/center channel/turntable.
Do you think the color of the cabinet will make a difference. I was thinking about minimizing the reflections so I was leaning towards something darker. I have some walnut I can piece together as a thick veneer of sorts as well as milling pieces for face frames. I would also use it for the shelving between the subs that would support the amps/receiver/PC/center channel/turntable.
Most people designing a HT room will use darker colours.
So, when you turn off the lights to watch a movie, you are not bothered by light spatter and your attention is on the screen.
If the space doubles as a living room, then it makes sense to use lighter colours. I have that limitation, so, our walls are cream coloured. While watching a movie, the room never gets dark. Annoying, but that's life.
So, when you turn off the lights to watch a movie, you are not bothered by light spatter and your attention is on the screen.
If the space doubles as a living room, then it makes sense to use lighter colours. I have that limitation, so, our walls are cream coloured. While watching a movie, the room never gets dark. Annoying, but that's life.
It is mostly a theater room but I think it may become more of a living room as the kids get older and we ultimately finish up the unpacking and the wet bar and other things. So I think I'm likely sticking with the grays. I think the wood parts of the sub cabinets and shelving can be walnut colored though.
Cut the driver holes. Bolted the cabinets to the foundation. Mounted the drivers into the cabinets. Trim, grill frames, and wiring next.
What's the prevailing wisdom on wiring dual voice coil subs? I understand that I should wire in parallel for more power, but that's not going to be an issue at all given the size of these things and the iNuke 3000 I have powering them. I haven't been able to find any other definitive pros/cons beyond the power issue, so maybe you all have a point of view?
What's the prevailing wisdom on wiring dual voice coil subs? I understand that I should wire in parallel for more power, but that's not going to be an issue at all given the size of these things and the iNuke 3000 I have powering them. I haven't been able to find any other definitive pros/cons beyond the power issue, so maybe you all have a point of view?
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