I'm thinking of merging 2 designs using the 10F.
I got a pair of W8-1363SBF waiting patiently in their boxes...
So, I could use those as bass units (instead of your Daytons) up to something like 300Hz in a vented box.
On top, I'd use the 10F full range from 300Hz up, but I'd pick from the Nola Brio and put it on an Open Baffle.
Sounds like a good plan to you?
I got a pair of W8-1363SBF waiting patiently in their boxes...
So, I could use those as bass units (instead of your Daytons) up to something like 300Hz in a vented box.
On top, I'd use the 10F full range from 300Hz up, but I'd pick from the Nola Brio and put it on an Open Baffle.
Sounds like a good plan to you?
That sounds like a great plan. Are you using active and DSP for the crossover?
Yep, I have a miniDSP 2x4 HD on the way, if it ever reaches my house, so that will be a good test platform for it.
Don't have the10F yet either. I have to check how Madisound will handle that. Need to contact them.
I got a PO Box for shipping here, as my address is a nightmare for non-English mail carriers, but nobody wants to ship to PO Boxes anymore.
Had a bit of a problem with FedEx as they kept telling miniDSP that my address was wrong...been living here close to 15 years. I think I know my own address.
Don't have the10F yet either. I have to check how Madisound will handle that. Need to contact them.
I got a PO Box for shipping here, as my address is a nightmare for non-English mail carriers, but nobody wants to ship to PO Boxes anymore.
Had a bit of a problem with FedEx as they kept telling miniDSP that my address was wrong...been living here close to 15 years. I think I know my own address.
Yeah! not kidding!
My address is like number X, lane Y, alley Z of the 2nd main road of the main village, suburbs of the main city, in county W.
miniDSP still in transit between Hong Kong and Taiwan. Just hope it all goes well...
Ordering TB drivers is a little easier... I can buy local.
I've been wondering if the W3-2141 would be close enough to the 10F. Earlier posts here shows the w3-2141 to have a drop at 5kHz, and a break up at 9 kHz. So, I guess not as well-behaved as the 10F.
I know the little brother of the 10F being the TC9, but having a round bezel will be a lot easier for what I want to do.
So. looks like the 10F is the one to get.
My address is like number X, lane Y, alley Z of the 2nd main road of the main village, suburbs of the main city, in county W.
miniDSP still in transit between Hong Kong and Taiwan. Just hope it all goes well...
Ordering TB drivers is a little easier... I can buy local.
I've been wondering if the W3-2141 would be close enough to the 10F. Earlier posts here shows the w3-2141 to have a drop at 5kHz, and a break up at 9 kHz. So, I guess not as well-behaved as the 10F.
I know the little brother of the 10F being the TC9, but having a round bezel will be a lot easier for what I want to do.
So. looks like the 10F is the one to get.
XRK
Greetings! I would like a tip, having recently built a final amplifier jlk2005, which seems good to me, I wondered if this FAST design could be fit to pair with the jlh2005 considering the low power available (16W / 8ohm) or vice versa is better Look towards more sensitive speakers (CD, coaxial, MTM, etc) .... and any kind of suggestion is welcome. I want to point out that my goal would be an accurate and realistic sound without exaggerating the levels, from single instrument to symphonic music, from jazz to pink floyd. Thank you. Greetings.
mleod
Greetings! I would like a tip, having recently built a final amplifier jlk2005, which seems good to me, I wondered if this FAST design could be fit to pair with the jlh2005 considering the low power available (16W / 8ohm) or vice versa is better Look towards more sensitive speakers (CD, coaxial, MTM, etc) .... and any kind of suggestion is welcome. I want to point out that my goal would be an accurate and realistic sound without exaggerating the levels, from single instrument to symphonic music, from jazz to pink floyd. Thank you. Greetings.
mleod
16w JLH Class A amp probably sounds great but a bit low in power for this speaker. I recommend minimum 25w class A and 50w Class AB minimum. 100w Class AB is even better for great dynamics.
If you want symphonic ability need a 3 way speaker really.
So if you want to use the 16 watt JLH2005 maybe a multiway pro audio speaker or a nice horn speaker.
I made a first order passive xo for this speaker based on the design of the xo for the FF85WK in the Dagger above the RS225 from this thread:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full...lind-abx-test-enabled-ff85wk-round-6-a-5.html
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full-range/292130-ff85wk-rs225-8-passive-fast.html
Design of XO (609Hz 1st order):
Measured SPL and phase:
Harmonic distortion:
Impulse and Step Response:
There's been some recent interest in this speaker using the passive crossover. I have been contacted numerous times by many people about this speaker and this crossover.
To make it easier for folks in the US ordering from PE, here are the equivalent PE part numbers to make this XO using much higher quality and higher watts rated resistors than what I used. BOM is about $25 per speaker in parts. These are Parts Express part #'s.
C1a = 027-354 50uF bipolar electrolytic
paralleled with
C1b = 269-304 6.8uF bipolar electrolytic
C3= 027-216 2.2uF 250v Dayton Precision Audio cap
Put all above in parallel for the tweeter/mid
R1 = 004-5.1 5.1ohm 10W Dayton Precision Audio resistor
(adjust R1 to taste to increase or decrease treble)
R2 = 004-5.1 5.1ohm 10W Dayton Precision Audio resistor
Use same 2.2uF cap for the Zobel (parallel to tweeter/mid with 10R in series):
C2 = 027-216 2.2uF 250v Dayton Precision Audio cap $2.79ea
R3 = 004-10 10ohm 10W Dayton Precision Audio resistor
Use two of these in series for L1 = 269-2128 2mH ferrite core inductor (buyout item so limited stock)
R4 = 004-1 1ohm 10W Dayton Precision Audio resistor
Also a note, this XO has been tested to work well with:
FF85WK
10F/8424
PS95-8
TC9FD
TG9FD (8ohm)
Just adjust R1 (decrease for lower sensitivity drivers - relative to 88dB).
Don't forget to mount fullrange underneath the woofer for proper time alignment.
The schematic says 57.7uF, then the paralleled 2.2uF. Not sure how much impact 1uF would have, just happened to notice it.
FWIW - I'm using(for now at least) a 60uF polypropelene cap: (not from this seller, but this is the cap 2X ASC LTI 4-5 330VAC 60uf +/- 10% AC Filter Capacitor, Polypropylen Film, Audio )
I figured a few uF difference wasn't a big deal. 
I've been, off an on, testing a speaker based on this design.
rs-225 in ~25liter sealed enclosure
ff85wk on small open baffle above
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/multi-way/302788-2-3-way-reference-build.html
hoping to test a 3-way version with added B&G Neo3 soon.
I've been, off an on, testing a speaker based on this design.
rs-225 in ~25liter sealed enclosure
ff85wk on small open baffle above
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/multi-way/302788-2-3-way-reference-build.html
hoping to test a 3-way version with added B&G Neo3 soon.
Good news, I have received the miniDST 2x4 HD.
Couldn't wait, and hooked it up. Used the default 48db XO and played some music.
Now, I need to do a lot more and play with it, just no time right now.
But adding the miniDSP completely killed the stereo image of my DAC. It's flat, dull and all centered. I hooked the analogue inputs and also changed to USB.
I hope that it can do a better job than this once it is setup properly. Really hope this is user error.
Couldn't wait, and hooked it up. Used the default 48db XO and played some music.
Now, I need to do a lot more and play with it, just no time right now.
But adding the miniDSP completely killed the stereo image of my DAC. It's flat, dull and all centered. I hooked the analogue inputs and also changed to USB.
I hope that it can do a better job than this once it is setup properly. Really hope this is user error.
Congratulation new hardware toys perceval, can it help at least for me new toys need some practice and patience over time to get better and better results .
As xrk971 point out you use steep slopes that if they minimum phase will add phase distortion, after a look on miniDSP site can see your new unit have FIR engine so instead of using HARSH it should be possible linearize phase for its standard IIR XO slopes, guess FIR filter creation is probably pointed out somewhere in manual how to do into free Rephase. Example of steep IIR 8th order LR slope at 350Hz is seen below for 20-20kHz system pass band verse linearized and there is quite some difference.
.As xrk971 point out you use steep slopes that if they minimum phase will add phase distortion, after a look on miniDSP site can see your new unit have FIR engine so instead of using HARSH it should be possible linearize phase for its standard IIR XO slopes, guess FIR filter creation is probably pointed out somewhere in manual how to do into free Rephase. Example of steep IIR 8th order LR slope at 350Hz is seen below for 20-20kHz system pass band verse linearized and there is quite some difference.
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Thanks Byrtt,
New toys are always fun.
I was just surprised on how much it affected the sound. I lost all left and right panning, and the sound became "thin".
Using the original DACs only, I had good drive on the sound. It had meat. I had it set with 2 DACs, used in aggregate mode in Mac, and JRiver to split the full range sound to one DAC, and the woofer sound to another DAC. There's an "anti-drift" function in Macs so both DACs were synchronised.
Adding the miniDSP, the sound lost its power, and it was thin sounding. No presence. More like listening to desktop speakers than big drivers mounted on an OB.
Hopefully, I will find time tomorrow to be alone in the house and get the mic out and start experimenting.
New toys are always fun.
I was just surprised on how much it affected the sound. I lost all left and right panning, and the sound became "thin".
Using the original DACs only, I had good drive on the sound. It had meat. I had it set with 2 DACs, used in aggregate mode in Mac, and JRiver to split the full range sound to one DAC, and the woofer sound to another DAC. There's an "anti-drift" function in Macs so both DACs were synchronised.
Adding the miniDSP, the sound lost its power, and it was thin sounding. No presence. More like listening to desktop speakers than big drivers mounted on an OB.
Hopefully, I will find time tomorrow to be alone in the house and get the mic out and start experimenting.
Ha! I knew it... User error...
I had the outputs setup wrong. It sounded like they were in the right place, but actually weren't.
On to testing... but my REW app is acting up. Frequency sweeps are fine, but impulse measurements change at every sweep, even though I don't change anything! Even had a flat impulse after one sweep! That was on a Mac.. I'll see if on a PC it does the same.
I had the outputs setup wrong. It sounded like they were in the right place, but actually weren't.
On to testing... but my REW app is acting up. Frequency sweeps are fine, but impulse measurements change at every sweep, even though I don't change anything! Even had a flat impulse after one sweep! That was on a Mac.. I'll see if on a PC it does the same.