I use my own quarter wave sub with 10" Scan Speak to assist TABAQ when whatcing movie - same driver used by Bang & Olufsen.
Can you share more details regarding your sub construction?
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Scanspeak 10F/8422-03 "special" for Tabaq?
First of all thanks to Bjørn for the design and for graciously providing details to build. I just finished reading through 10 years of posts and look forward to building a pair.
I recently came across an unusual Scanspeak full range driver at Madisound, the 10F/8422-03. My understanding is that this 4" driver, which sells for $22, was made for the Japanese magazine "Stereo".
Unfortunately I was unable to attach a website link using the thread tools. I have attached a copy of the specification sheet hoping someone can advise me if this driver would be suitable for a Tabaq style build. The resonance frequency is 100 Hz and I would also like to know the low frequency response I could expect. Thanks in advance.
Rick
First of all thanks to Bjørn for the design and for graciously providing details to build. I just finished reading through 10 years of posts and look forward to building a pair.
I recently came across an unusual Scanspeak full range driver at Madisound, the 10F/8422-03. My understanding is that this 4" driver, which sells for $22, was made for the Japanese magazine "Stereo".
Unfortunately I was unable to attach a website link using the thread tools. I have attached a copy of the specification sheet hoping someone can advise me if this driver would be suitable for a Tabaq style build. The resonance frequency is 100 Hz and I would also like to know the low frequency response I could expect. Thanks in advance.
Rick
I have a 4" TB in my TABAQ. Just for example, and it's not a good recording, done with the cellphone mic, which picks up bass like crazy and cuts the highs, but it does show the capacity of the TABAQs to give low enough bass coming from a little 4" driver!
https://www.facebook.com/jeff.greffe/videos/10154217064696635/
Thank you Perceval. Finally ordered the drivers for my TABAQs and mini-monitors. I ordered TG9FDs for the TABAQs and TC9FDs for the mini-monitors. [emoji106]
The TG9FDs are the 4ohm versions because that's what they had at Parts Express. I'm okay with that because the 4ohm versions have a little higher Qts and a little higher sensitivity than the 8ohm version.
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Ok I bought four of them because of their reputation and price. Now I need to find a design to use them in. lol
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The 4 Ohms version of the TG9 is the more current right now, but I read that the 8 Ohms version was superior.
I don't know if the differences will help, but I tried the TC9 in my TABAQs and the bass did not go as low as with my TB drivers.
Why not the FF105WK?
Based on Bjørn's guidelines, it seems like the 4 inch Fostex FF105WK might be a good candidate for the Tabaq-style build. Qts is 0,41 and Fs is 75 Hz. The downside is 1.7mm xmax versus 3.0mm in the currently available "SIF" version of the TB W4-1320 used Bjørn.
https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/approx-4-fullrange/fostex-ff105wk-4-full-range/
https://www.parts-express.com/tang-band-w4-1320sif-4-bamboo-full-range-speaker--264-914
I am curious that the FF105WK has not been mentioned and wondering if I may be overlooking something. Could anyone please let me know if the Fostex would do well or should I stick with the TB W4-1320SIF?
Any suggestions for another 4-inch option that has worked well would be appreciated. I would like to have ample bass in the 40's or lower in a small (10' x 12') room with the speakers close to the wall. hope Thank you,
Rick
Hi giantstairs
Several 3 and 4 inch drivers are doing well in TABAQ. I have simmed a lot of drivers and have tested several. I know which one I would label the best small driver, but that is a "trade secret"
My own TABAQ speakers are now mounted with Tang Band 4 inch bamboo drivers 1320SA, and I am very pleased with these. I use the BSC filter and the original stuffing.
I would try any good quality driver, using these rules of thumbs.
3 inch driver should have a Qts around 0.5 or higher and Fs not higher than 100 Hz.
4 inch driver should have a Qts around 0.4 - 0.35 and Fs not higher than 75 Hz.
Please note the driver can be mounted 5 cm higher than the original drawing. A 4 inch driver can do with 70 gram stuffing instead of 100 gram if you prefer. It is a matter of your personal taste.
Hi from
Bjørn
Based on Bjørn's guidelines, it seems like the 4 inch Fostex FF105WK might be a good candidate for the Tabaq-style build. Qts is 0,41 and Fs is 75 Hz. The downside is 1.7mm xmax versus 3.0mm in the currently available "SIF" version of the TB W4-1320 used Bjørn.
https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/approx-4-fullrange/fostex-ff105wk-4-full-range/
https://www.parts-express.com/tang-band-w4-1320sif-4-bamboo-full-range-speaker--264-914
I am curious that the FF105WK has not been mentioned and wondering if I may be overlooking something. Could anyone please let me know if the Fostex would do well or should I stick with the TB W4-1320SIF?
Any suggestions for another 4-inch option that has worked well would be appreciated. I would like to have ample bass in the 40's or lower in a small (10' x 12') room with the speakers close to the wall. hope Thank you,
Rick
[emoji53]Hmmm makes me curious. I've seen the 8ohm version a few places online. I may need to get a measurement microphone and do some investigations.
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Update about the 10F/8422-03
After reviewing dimensions for the Scanspeak full range driver I mentioned earlier, the outside diameter of this driver is approximately 4 it appears to be closer in size to a TB 3 inch driver rather than a TB 4 inch driver. Which means specs are in line with Bjørn's recommendations. However, the Scanspeak has 2.3mm linear excursion compared to 0.5mm for the TB w3-881SJF. Would the increased linear excursion would improve low frequency response without adversely affecting speaker performance? Thanks,
Rick
After reviewing dimensions for the Scanspeak full range driver I mentioned earlier, the outside diameter of this driver is approximately 4 it appears to be closer in size to a TB 3 inch driver rather than a TB 4 inch driver. Which means specs are in line with Bjørn's recommendations. However, the Scanspeak has 2.3mm linear excursion compared to 0.5mm for the TB w3-881SJF. Would the increased linear excursion would improve low frequency response without adversely affecting speaker performance? Thanks,
Rick
Thanks for the comment
Gonna build a TABAQ for it !
BTW,
1. Is this the build plan ?
http://coolcat.dk/bjoern/TABAQ_TL_for_TB.pdf
2. Can I use thicker 20mm (3/4") or 15mm (5/8") MDF instead of 12mm for more rigidity ?
3. Do I need to 'round' the edges of the sheets (both inside and outside edges) ?
4. Can I give the BSC outside the speaker box ?
5. I love a very "bright" sound signature. So, should I alter the values in the BSC to decrease the impact on treble quantity ?
I have a Yamaha AS500 integrated amp by the way and I'm planning to go for a cheap chi-fi class-D amp for this.
Comments are welcome
The Tabaqs call for Qts between 0.50 and 0.65 with Fs at around 100 Hz. Agree with perceval that you'll get good performance out of the TC9FDs but the bass will not reach as low. The TB drivers have values closer to the recommended criteria so you can go for them. Moreover you will get a better bass extension with these drivers.
1. Is this the build plan ?
http://coolcat.dk/bjoern/TABAQ_TL_for_TB.pdf
2. Can I use thicker 20mm (3/4") or 15mm (5/8") MDF instead of 12mm for more rigidity ?
3. Do I need to 'round' the edges of the sheets (both inside and outside edges) ?
4. Can I give the BSC outside the speaker box ?
5. I love a very "bright" sound signature. So, should I alter the values in the BSC to decrease the impact on treble quantity ?
I have a Yamaha AS500 integrated amp by the way and I'm planning to go for a cheap chi-fi class-D amp for this.
Comments are welcome
1. Yes that's those are the plans. Only, the driver cut-out centre has been shifted 6 cm upwards, if I recall correctly.
2. You can use 12mm thick MDF or plywood. The enclosure cross-section is small enough for rigidity. Only, make sure that the panels are well glued and that there is no air leak in the box.
3. You don't need to round the edges inside the box. You can round the outside edges for cosmetic appearance.
4. The BSC can be used outside the box so that you can replace it if you are not satisfied with the sound.
5. Try speaker placement first and if you are not satisfied then go for a BSC.
Just to add to the answers above...
If you increase the boards thickness, just make sure the internal dimension are the same as the original plan, so you'll have to adjust by yourself. But 12mm is fine as is.
The driver should be mounted 5cm higher than in the original plan.
If you like bright sound, try without the BSC. If you put them closer to the back wall, they will have more bass and be more balanced. If move them away from the back wall, you will start losing bass extension. Experiment to suit your taste.
If you still want bass extension to come through, even away from the back wall, then you will need the BSC. You can lower the value of R if you want more higher frequencies to come forward.
In my opinion, you're still better using your Yamaha amplifier than a cheap D class. I used to enjoy buying different D boards, just because they were so cheap, but after doing a test with my "best" D amp and an AB amp, all my D class amps are stocked on a shelf somewhere and are not used anymore.
If you increase the boards thickness, just make sure the internal dimension are the same as the original plan, so you'll have to adjust by yourself. But 12mm is fine as is.
The driver should be mounted 5cm higher than in the original plan.
If you like bright sound, try without the BSC. If you put them closer to the back wall, they will have more bass and be more balanced. If move them away from the back wall, you will start losing bass extension. Experiment to suit your taste.
If you still want bass extension to come through, even away from the back wall, then you will need the BSC. You can lower the value of R if you want more higher frequencies to come forward.
In my opinion, you're still better using your Yamaha amplifier than a cheap D class. I used to enjoy buying different D boards, just because they were so cheap, but after doing a test with my "best" D amp and an AB amp, all my D class amps are stocked on a shelf somewhere and are not used anymore.