Billy, you could try 9mH, 0.9mH, 0.09mH and 280uF, 28uF, 2.8uf for a 4way 2nd order 8ohm series filter. fs at 10k, 1k and 100Hz. You may need to adjust the inductance of each of the 2nd order inductors by subtracting the driver inductance. If the driver has an inductance of 2mH then one inductor of 9mH and one of 7mH, still working on that as well as correctly predicting the weather. My prediction was rain and it is rain.
Good morning Mark
It will look more like this;
if L1 is 0.3mH, than L2 is (4 x's L1 (0.3)) = 1.2mH
if L2 is 1.2mH, than L3 is (4 x'x L2 (1.2)) = 4.8mH
if the above is correct;
C1 is 3 x's the equivalent parallel crossover value
C2 is 2 x's the equivalent parallel crossover value
C3 is 1/2 x's the equivalent parallel crossover value
The question will be;
if our starting L1 is less than 0.27mH, will we be in a 5 x's equation
if our starting L2 is greater than 0.36mH, will we be less than 4 x's equation
is there a relationship?
if I didn't go and talk to that sweet thing standing by the bar, then I wouldn't still be with her
if she didn't driver me crazy, then I wouldn't have secluded myself in the basement
if I didn't try to add some sort of perfection to my life, then I never would have looked for a better crossover
if I didn't look for a better crossover, then I'd still be listening to a parallel crossover
I Love my Wife, and it's going to rain. You are correct.
Back to my crossover.
If one of you has an 'in' at a Particle Collider facility,
and if they are having trouble consistently achieving collisions
my circuit may be able to help
sreten et al
I'm not joking
It will look more like this;
if L1 is 0.3mH, than L2 is (4 x's L1 (0.3)) = 1.2mH
if L2 is 1.2mH, than L3 is (4 x'x L2 (1.2)) = 4.8mH
if the above is correct;
C1 is 3 x's the equivalent parallel crossover value
C2 is 2 x's the equivalent parallel crossover value
C3 is 1/2 x's the equivalent parallel crossover value
The question will be;
if our starting L1 is less than 0.27mH, will we be in a 5 x's equation
if our starting L2 is greater than 0.36mH, will we be less than 4 x's equation
is there a relationship?
if I didn't go and talk to that sweet thing standing by the bar, then I wouldn't still be with her
if she didn't driver me crazy, then I wouldn't have secluded myself in the basement
if I didn't try to add some sort of perfection to my life, then I never would have looked for a better crossover
if I didn't look for a better crossover, then I'd still be listening to a parallel crossover
I Love my Wife, and it's going to rain. You are correct.
Back to my crossover.
If one of you has an 'in' at a Particle Collider facility,
and if they are having trouble consistently achieving collisions
my circuit may be able to help
sreten et al
I'm not joking
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Rambling sort of thread, this. But I'm following it. I thought I'd look at a two way equivalent, and skip the mid altogether, which goes where the 8R resistor is. I also did it linear phase, because I can.
On a flat baffle you have to flip tweeter polarity. I did a bit of impedance correction on the cone tweeter too, but it's not compulsory. Not bad at all.
On a flat baffle you have to flip tweeter polarity. I did a bit of impedance correction on the cone tweeter too, but it's not compulsory. Not bad at all.
Attachments
A nice touch.I did a bit of impedance correction on the cone tweeter too, but it's not compulsory. Not bad at all.
series crossover
Hi there C: Missing your posts on the series crossover and speaker enclosure progress/
listening results and testing. Hope things are well with you and family. ...regards, Michael
Hi there C: Missing your posts on the series crossover and speaker enclosure progress/
listening results and testing. Hope things are well with you and family. ...regards, Michael
Hello Michael, and thank you for asking. Everything on the home front is fabulous.
If you made it through this long, boring, and waffling thread, you know I own a roofing company. We are in the middle of a huge 55,000 square foot roof rebuild. I'm actually working with the crews (they hate me).
I also started sprucing up the laundry room. I am unsure if you are married, but it went something like this; "Honey, is there any way of getting a few more electrical outlets?". "Honey, since your removing some of the drywall, can you also move those ugly pipes (copper water) from there and move them under the sink?". Which led to; "Honey, I really don't like stucco ceilings. Is it too much work to put up new drywall on the ceiling and give me a smooth finish?".
What started as a weekend paint job ended up being a full demolition/rebuild. Something like designing a speaker/crossover. Which was your question.
Picture 1) I've now chamfered the inside edge of the TD6M's opening.
Picture 2) Front of the baffle with the partial 1" roundover. I think I'm going to 'round' it more. I had never used a router table before, so I thought I should get the hang of it first.
Picture 3) The back cavity for the crossover parts. I'm not sure all the parts are going to fit?
Picture 4) The crossover parts. The last thing I want to do is put one of the woofers inductors in the woofer compartment.
Picture 5) Front of the upper box, without the baffle.
Picture 6) Side view, 23" deep. The front baffle will make it 24" deep.
Picture 7) What the front will look like once I router and install the baffle.
Some of you noticed the tweeter compartment is separate from the mid compartment which is separate from the mid woofer compartment.
Some of you may think I am sane?
Why the separate compartments?
I'm going to cannibalize my $2,900.00 Accuton BD20 Diamond tweeters?.
I'm gong to cannibalize my Accuton C50 midranges?.
Curiosity killed the cat?
If you made it through this long, boring, and waffling thread, you know I own a roofing company. We are in the middle of a huge 55,000 square foot roof rebuild. I'm actually working with the crews (they hate me).
I also started sprucing up the laundry room. I am unsure if you are married, but it went something like this; "Honey, is there any way of getting a few more electrical outlets?". "Honey, since your removing some of the drywall, can you also move those ugly pipes (copper water) from there and move them under the sink?". Which led to; "Honey, I really don't like stucco ceilings. Is it too much work to put up new drywall on the ceiling and give me a smooth finish?".
What started as a weekend paint job ended up being a full demolition/rebuild. Something like designing a speaker/crossover. Which was your question.
Picture 1) I've now chamfered the inside edge of the TD6M's opening.
Picture 2) Front of the baffle with the partial 1" roundover. I think I'm going to 'round' it more. I had never used a router table before, so I thought I should get the hang of it first.
Picture 3) The back cavity for the crossover parts. I'm not sure all the parts are going to fit?
Picture 4) The crossover parts. The last thing I want to do is put one of the woofers inductors in the woofer compartment.
Picture 5) Front of the upper box, without the baffle.
Picture 6) Side view, 23" deep. The front baffle will make it 24" deep.
Picture 7) What the front will look like once I router and install the baffle.
Some of you noticed the tweeter compartment is separate from the mid compartment which is separate from the mid woofer compartment.
Some of you may think I am sane?
Why the separate compartments?
I'm going to cannibalize my $2,900.00 Accuton BD20 Diamond tweeters?.
I'm gong to cannibalize my Accuton C50 midranges?.
Curiosity killed the cat?
Attachments
It's a high inductance woofer with steep natural rolloff, around 2.2mH Le, so the shunt capacitor gets a damping resistor to keep it from peaking. You won't need that with a low inductance woofer.
Splendid carpentry going on at Maison Bill! Crossover looks a bit Rube Goldberg, or Heath-Robinson as we say over here, but I'm sure it works.
Good morning Steve
I've missed you.
I have to google 'Rube Goldberg', and 'Heath-Robinson'. I think I like those guys.
I'm installing the new Laundry room cabinets the next couple days. No speaker work.
I should have the speakers new upper cabinets finished by next weekend. The amount of sanding required is staggering. The Baltic Birch Plywood is a hardwood, and my arms are getting old. I don't want to use an electric sander, this might leave 'low' spots where I lose focus. They will then need to go for clear coat painting.
After that, lot's more testing, and waffles with maple syrup.
Bill
I've missed you.
I have to google 'Rube Goldberg', and 'Heath-Robinson'. I think I like those guys.
I'm installing the new Laundry room cabinets the next couple days. No speaker work.
I should have the speakers new upper cabinets finished by next weekend. The amount of sanding required is staggering. The Baltic Birch Plywood is a hardwood, and my arms are getting old. I don't want to use an electric sander, this might leave 'low' spots where I lose focus. They will then need to go for clear coat painting.
After that, lot's more testing, and waffles with maple syrup.
Bill
Good Morning, Bill. I've been doing some theoretical stuff on your crossover.
I set up a parallel circuit to replicate your series filter. It's a bit weird looking, but it IS a parallel circuit, just I've had to lay it out differently to do what I want. This is called the target response method.
Basically the tweeter and bass are given an interaction via the 8 ohm resistor. Sounds familiar? Then I twiddle a few values to match them with and without the 8 ohm resistor.
Your circuit does 3 things better than the pure parallel equivalent. It has better impedance. It has better phase, and it is much less sensitive to component values. I can't quite think about what the interaction does. Yours is the solid line. The parallel is the dotted line. Interesting, eh?
I set up a parallel circuit to replicate your series filter. It's a bit weird looking, but it IS a parallel circuit, just I've had to lay it out differently to do what I want. This is called the target response method.
Basically the tweeter and bass are given an interaction via the 8 ohm resistor. Sounds familiar? Then I twiddle a few values to match them with and without the 8 ohm resistor.
Your circuit does 3 things better than the pure parallel equivalent. It has better impedance. It has better phase, and it is much less sensitive to component values. I can't quite think about what the interaction does. Yours is the solid line. The parallel is the dotted line. Interesting, eh?
Attachments
Hello Steve
Nice work.
At this point, I am the student, and you are the teacher.
With regards to your second picture, phase.
Am I safe in making the following observation and statement; the woofer has its phase shift at approximately 2200Hz. The tweeter has its phase shift at approximately 1500Hz. Is it theoretically ideal to have the two lines (shifts) at the same frequency?
Nice work.
At this point, I am the student, and you are the teacher.
With regards to your second picture, phase.
Am I safe in making the following observation and statement; the woofer has its phase shift at approximately 2200Hz. The tweeter has its phase shift at approximately 1500Hz. Is it theoretically ideal to have the two lines (shifts) at the same frequency?
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