Correct and nowhere did I claim nor imply nor infer that those were 1) my measurements and that they were 2) free air measurements.
Completely and utterly incorrect. These drivers are part of no "kit"", they are drivers only as one can purchase on TaoBao and PartsExpress.
That is how I purchased them - stand alone.
Both of you are inserting pure fiction in your posts, and in light of nearly constant slurs levied at my posts, I am wondering about this site.
I don't think that those posts were put negatively towards you at all. The impedance and FR graphs look like they are from the BR kit. Not sure why you would post them when they have no relevance to your setup.
I would be interested what your measurements look like for the naked driver however.
I would be interested what your measurements look like for the naked driver however.
I have a music server laptop on the way, that will also be used for measurements, but I have no idea where I can find anything close to a calibrated mic here. I may get lucky, who knows.
Listening to this driver nearfield, it appears to sound very close to that FR. A more early and gradual rolloff at the bottom end for certain, but not too far off.
This driver was a big surprise as in the door baffle it sounded terrible, but when freed on a NOB the treble response picked up nicely.
If you can find a Panasonic WMA60a you can build your own for next to nothing
Google-Ergebnis für http://audio-perfection.com/wp-content/uploads/WM-60A1.png
Google-Ergebnis für http://audio-perfection.com/wp-content/uploads/WM-60A1.png
It's a gallery
Two 4" Monopole AMT tweeters, paralleled for a 4 ohm load,should be 94db/watt, but seem louder, stacked to limit vertical dispersion, a little tilt to tweak that a little.
1 15" Trace Elliot (by Celestion) midwoofer, 98db/watt, 8 ohms nominal.
61" tall, 5" deep on top, 9.5" deep on bottom mast, laminated pine- routered notch to carry magnet of woofer and time align tweeters with the woofer.
These are actively crossed over at 2500 hertz, and 250 hertz to a now corner loaded, diagonally firing 18" subwoofer in a roughly 2' cube/ tilted H Frame, which sounds better with no top.
As a postscript, these really came together with some 22 gauge Clairvoyant occ gold plated speaker wire I made, simple twisted pairs, and interconnects I made with the same wire, also twisted pairs.
The fancy wire is unnecessary on the woofers, I couldn't hear a difference there.
Good thing my inexpensive active crossovers came with "Maximizer" tone controls.
This system is voiced for tone controls bypassed for vinyl, a boost at high and low frequencies for cinema and TV, and the treble needs to be cut a little on CD.
It's that revealing now.
I know these aren't open baffles, but they're close enough, and will likely be the last main speakers I make for my own use.
I'll never go back to monkey coffins.
Two 4" Monopole AMT tweeters, paralleled for a 4 ohm load,should be 94db/watt, but seem louder, stacked to limit vertical dispersion, a little tilt to tweak that a little.
1 15" Trace Elliot (by Celestion) midwoofer, 98db/watt, 8 ohms nominal.
61" tall, 5" deep on top, 9.5" deep on bottom mast, laminated pine- routered notch to carry magnet of woofer and time align tweeters with the woofer.
These are actively crossed over at 2500 hertz, and 250 hertz to a now corner loaded, diagonally firing 18" subwoofer in a roughly 2' cube/ tilted H Frame, which sounds better with no top.
As a postscript, these really came together with some 22 gauge Clairvoyant occ gold plated speaker wire I made, simple twisted pairs, and interconnects I made with the same wire, also twisted pairs.
The fancy wire is unnecessary on the woofers, I couldn't hear a difference there.
Good thing my inexpensive active crossovers came with "Maximizer" tone controls.
This system is voiced for tone controls bypassed for vinyl, a boost at high and low frequencies for cinema and TV, and the treble needs to be cut a little on CD.
It's that revealing now.
I know these aren't open baffles, but they're close enough, and will likely be the last main speakers I make for my own use.
I'll never go back to monkey coffins.
Attachments
And then again
I have some 12" waveguides from a dismantled build, tried these, as I really like constant directivity treble combined with the ambience of dipole mids.
The Fane compression drivers are smooth, and handle the 2500hertz crossover point better than the AMT's, which are really at their best from 5000 hz and up.
I have some 12" waveguides from a dismantled build, tried these, as I really like constant directivity treble combined with the ambience of dipole mids.
The Fane compression drivers are smooth, and handle the 2500hertz crossover point better than the AMT's, which are really at their best from 5000 hz and up.
Attachments
I'm having trouble disguising my h frame sub location.
The timbre is too good to return to box bass, though .
Did you have similar problems?
Absolutely! 21's are terrible to hide, especially in small rooms...
Mine ended up on the ceiling - http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/multi-way/210837-new-forum-member-new-ob-project-9.html#post3081867
They're going to end up "on top" of my entertainment center in the new house.
Mine ended up on the ceiling - http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/multi-way/210837-new-forum-member-new-ob-project-9.html#post3081867
They're going to end up "on top" of my entertainment center in the new house.
That's how I runAlthough I have my crossover very close to 1kHz.
Just admired your build again, and it occurs to me you could have two "wings" extend from the top of your midrange baffle to the floor, have your horn "mast" continue to the floor, separately.
Now your mids can't pass mechanically coupled resonances along to your horn, and you're free to time align things by simply moving one driver fore or aft.
I will try this someday, but I'm mostly done building for a while now.
