Easy
"To add a photo, files or non standard files.
First click "go advanced" in the box below the "quick reply" message box. Doesn't matter if you decide half way through a message to do that, it carries it forward.
Then click "Manage attachements". Maximise the new Window so that you can see all the text.
Click browse in the first box at the top and find your picture. Repeat for any more pictures.
Click upload... a message appears "uploading"
When complete the files will show as being attached. Now click the small text that says "close this window"
The pictures should now be attached and when you submit your post they will appear.
Make sure your pics aren't too big, a couple of 100k is plenty, and many members object when they are massive and it alters the margins
It tells you in the attachments window what max sizes are allowed.
If you want to attach a file that has a non standard format for example excel, circuit simulation etc then try putting the files in a zipped folder and attaching that."
Yep, that did the trick
Mooly, thanks for the help.
The first picture is my sort of prototype of the 219. on the ''armbase'' lies the alu tube used fabricating the headshell. I'm wondering if I should use het whole piece as the tonearm, instead of the carbon shaft. The second picture is the headshell piece in detail. The third shows a kitchen device from Ikea, fabricated from all kind of stainless tubes. I guess they can be used as tonearm too....
Mark
Mooly, thanks for the help.
The first picture is my sort of prototype of the 219. on the ''armbase'' lies the alu tube used fabricating the headshell. I'm wondering if I should use het whole piece as the tonearm, instead of the carbon shaft. The second picture is the headshell piece in detail. The third shows a kitchen device from Ikea, fabricated from all kind of stainless tubes. I guess they can be used as tonearm too....
Mark
Attachments
No stainless (please).
Not all stainless steel is non-magnetic, in fact almost none of it is non-magnetic regardless of what most folks think. anytime it is welded or machined there is the opportunity to revert back to a non-austenitic state.
Think about this: any and all ferrous metals have some magnetic properties, even those that are in an austenitic state. permeability, particularly after machining, welding or working the material.
We are dealing with extremely small magnetic fields (in phono cartridges) and even a seemingly small amount of permeability can perturb a small electro-magnetic field (which is the transport mechanism of signals throughout the audio chain).
So what are the options? Carbon fibre may be an alternative (but one I have some issues with). Light? Yes. Stiff? (in sufficient wall thicknesses). Another would be as the late Bernard Salaber used for tonearms: brass.
If wanting to protect the E-M field as completely as possible in any tonearm cable or interconnect, the complete arm (or more correctly the tonearm wires or signal carrying conductors) need to be wrapped from cartridge tags (or the first set of mechanical connectors for each interconnect) until termination at the phono preamp (or the second mechanical connector of each interconnect) with mu metal foil. This is the best way to contain the signal carrying E-M field while shielding it from external E-M effects.
Not all stainless steel is non-magnetic, in fact almost none of it is non-magnetic regardless of what most folks think. anytime it is welded or machined there is the opportunity to revert back to a non-austenitic state.
Think about this: any and all ferrous metals have some magnetic properties, even those that are in an austenitic state. permeability, particularly after machining, welding or working the material.
We are dealing with extremely small magnetic fields (in phono cartridges) and even a seemingly small amount of permeability can perturb a small electro-magnetic field (which is the transport mechanism of signals throughout the audio chain).
So what are the options? Carbon fibre may be an alternative (but one I have some issues with). Light? Yes. Stiff? (in sufficient wall thicknesses). Another would be as the late Bernard Salaber used for tonearms: brass.
If wanting to protect the E-M field as completely as possible in any tonearm cable or interconnect, the complete arm (or more correctly the tonearm wires or signal carrying conductors) need to be wrapped from cartridge tags (or the first set of mechanical connectors for each interconnect) until termination at the phono preamp (or the second mechanical connector of each interconnect) with mu metal foil. This is the best way to contain the signal carrying E-M field while shielding it from external E-M effects.
God's carbon fibre...
I agree that wood is, but the stuff folks refer to as carbon fibre (threads, plastic, resins, etc) is nasty stuff and makes an already very light mass arm even lighter. Thus some mass must be added, and the tubes need to be damped. Wood is fine as is aluminium.
Any steel is a non-starter for the reasons I stated in my last post.
Off Topic: gotta love southern Alberta, snow last night, today and a snow fall warning for tonight.
A quick question. I've had many inquire about kits. I have avoided doing these until I could get a reasonable prototype of a retail version of the 219 put together. I now have completed this and am asking what folks might want if a kit were to be offered. Please email me via the email link on my profile page. Thanks.
I agree that wood is, but the stuff folks refer to as carbon fibre (threads, plastic, resins, etc) is nasty stuff and makes an already very light mass arm even lighter. Thus some mass must be added, and the tubes need to be damped. Wood is fine as is aluminium.
Any steel is a non-starter for the reasons I stated in my last post.
Off Topic: gotta love southern Alberta, snow last night, today and a snow fall warning for tonight.
A quick question. I've had many inquire about kits. I have avoided doing these until I could get a reasonable prototype of a retail version of the 219 put together. I now have completed this and am asking what folks might want if a kit were to be offered. Please email me via the email link on my profile page. Thanks.
A Bit Of Fun!!
Hello Everyone
I had the arm tube of an old Syrinx PU2 lying around in my bits box for years (long story-Knackered bearings) and last week, I decided to have a play around with it. A couple of hours later-Voila! Using an Ortofon MC 15 it sounds good. Where will I put all these things.......
Chris
Hello Everyone
I had the arm tube of an old Syrinx PU2 lying around in my bits box for years (long story-Knackered bearings) and last week, I decided to have a play around with it. A couple of hours later-Voila! Using an Ortofon MC 15 it sounds good. Where will I put all these things.......
Chris
Attachments
prototyping almost done...
Well I think I've got a base settled on. Still plugging away. Arm rest next, then an arm lift (something that won't look too garage-built). If I can't get a decent lift designed and built, I may not bother with one. Currently have approximately 1" of adjustment for VTA. Thus far, all wood construction (except for the obvious arrow shaft, and bearing pivots and arm mount "shaft").
Well I think I've got a base settled on. Still plugging away. Arm rest next, then an arm lift (something that won't look too garage-built). If I can't get a decent lift designed and built, I may not bother with one. Currently have approximately 1" of adjustment for VTA. Thus far, all wood construction (except for the obvious arrow shaft, and bearing pivots and arm mount "shaft").
Lookin' good Scott
I hope my PMs have helped (and it appears as though they have). For those that don't know I have been coaching a few folks to get them started and provide a little more direct rationale to my reasoning for certain details. I've kept this on the QT as I get enough emails, but now that a few have built the arms, they can help answers as well.
The counter weight arrangement is different than I had anticipated...and heat-shrink on the arm to provide dampening?
PM me with further listening notes if you don't want to post them here, as well as any other comments (but I would prefer you post everything to the forum. The rest is very WTL, nice and simple (which I like, as well as the headshell).
I continue to work towards a finalized prototype for manufacturing and have spent the last while on a very simplified headshell in terms of steps to manufacturing and raw materials. One that I have found a little difficult is the need for a flat surface on top of the cartridge, as some don't have this (like the Shure V15V for instance). Another is determining the dorsal distance between the stylus tip and the mounting screws. Be nice if there was a standard that was used. So I just have to relegate that to either 1/2" or 1/4".
Hope all are enjoying their arms.
I hope my PMs have helped (and it appears as though they have). For those that don't know I have been coaching a few folks to get them started and provide a little more direct rationale to my reasoning for certain details. I've kept this on the QT as I get enough emails, but now that a few have built the arms, they can help answers as well.
The counter weight arrangement is different than I had anticipated...and heat-shrink on the arm to provide dampening?
PM me with further listening notes if you don't want to post them here, as well as any other comments (but I would prefer you post everything to the forum. The rest is very WTL, nice and simple (which I like, as well as the headshell).
I continue to work towards a finalized prototype for manufacturing and have spent the last while on a very simplified headshell in terms of steps to manufacturing and raw materials. One that I have found a little difficult is the need for a flat surface on top of the cartridge, as some don't have this (like the Shure V15V for instance). Another is determining the dorsal distance between the stylus tip and the mounting screws. Be nice if there was a standard that was used. So I just have to relegate that to either 1/2" or 1/4".
Hope all are enjoying their arms.
Stew it is a great sounding arm.
A few things I did different was to dampen the aluminum arm with
Heat shrink,that makes a big difference.
The other thing is I am using a vee sapphire for the pivot.
It works much better than the socket screw dimple that I used on the first arm
I was very concerned about yanking it off the pivot
But that is no concern with the vee jewel.
Another thing that is a must is to solder the ground wire to the aluminum shaft
At the front end of the shaft.
A few things I did different was to dampen the aluminum arm with
Heat shrink,that makes a big difference.
The other thing is I am using a vee sapphire for the pivot.
It works much better than the socket screw dimple that I used on the first arm
I was very concerned about yanking it off the pivot
But that is no concern with the vee jewel.
Another thing that is a must is to solder the ground wire to the aluminum shaft
At the front end of the shaft.
The differences...
...are what the "DIY" experience is about and makes something your own implementation.
The Vee bearing cups are very affordable, less so with the shafts. As I had suggested to some, heat shrink was part of Sumiko's "analog survival kit" and could be used by itself or in combination with small O-rings to dampen the arm tube if not wanting to stuff the arm full of stuffing.
I've left wiring details out, as this thread is more about implementation, not a complete set of instructions for the newb. But I've helped any that have PM'd me.
The distance the bottom of whatever bearing one uses to the lower surface of the arrow shaft is pretty crucial. the distance should be >1/2 the O.D. of the shaft. A low slung counter-weight should be employed as well. This is far more crucial than the bearing type (I think).
Glad you are enjoying the arm Scott. Any direct comparisons?
...are what the "DIY" experience is about and makes something your own implementation.
The Vee bearing cups are very affordable, less so with the shafts. As I had suggested to some, heat shrink was part of Sumiko's "analog survival kit" and could be used by itself or in combination with small O-rings to dampen the arm tube if not wanting to stuff the arm full of stuffing.
I've left wiring details out, as this thread is more about implementation, not a complete set of instructions for the newb. But I've helped any that have PM'd me.
The distance the bottom of whatever bearing one uses to the lower surface of the arrow shaft is pretty crucial. the distance should be >1/2 the O.D. of the shaft. A low slung counter-weight should be employed as well. This is far more crucial than the bearing type (I think).
Glad you are enjoying the arm Scott. Any direct comparisons?
It might have been mentioned before, but where did you source the vee sapphire from?
http://www.amazonsupply.com/s/16411191
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
- Status
- This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.