Hey Saturnus, I'm just about to cut up ply for the Mini Mk 2. Are you recommending making the baffles in 6mm or 12 mm? If 12mm are there any final adjustments to measurements necessary?
I know you previously advised not to worry about the volumes of the holes in the inner 6mm sheet for the baffle, but pending a new sketchup, I just wanted to double check.
Thx
I know you previously advised not to worry about the volumes of the holes in the inner 6mm sheet for the baffle, but pending a new sketchup, I just wanted to double check.
Thx
Okey I see. The measurement are as I said correct but I've screwed the drivers all the way down since thats what they did on the canopy video. (Boominator - Build by Canopy Sound - YouTube)
Guess Ill go with your solution. The size of the box will be correct but the braces will not be exactly in the middle... How will this affect the sound quality?
Okey thank you!
1. In this picture you can see how long ive come with the soldering. I guess my next move is to solder the tweeters together?
2. Do the tweeters also need a resistance between the positive poles?
3. And then i take one positive pole from one of the drivers to the amd, and a negative from the otherone to the amd?
4. I have a Indeed Hifi amp. Does it matter where I insert the different drivers into the amp? Like is there different + and - poles? ( Indeed HiFi TA2020 - Canopy Sound )
I used Masonite (called hardboard in the UK) my gaps were smaller and we're equal either side because my inner baffle was exactly centered. The Masonite was too thick so I had to plane it down a bit.
BJ
I made it without the masonite sliver, only 2 tubes of chemical metal glue, Ill post a picture tomorrow
I found this circut diagram from a precius post.
Image - TinyPic - gratis vrdtjnst fr bilder, foton och video
Saturnus said that A option was correct, so I just devide the + cable and the - cable from the amp into two?
I finally got around to some better photos of my NS6 mini (sorry about the blob of dirt on my lens):
I painted the orange before glue up but ended up repainting afterward because there were a few dings and glue residue that I couldn't ignore. The silver paint is Rustolium Hammerite
The grills are 'pet screen' used for screen doors. I used goop (or shoe goo) contact cement to attach them to the wood.
The next photo shows:
- the 3S2P LiPo battery. Each cell is 2,6 AH. I rewired a 6S pack from one of my helicopters into two 3S packs with separate balance leads.
- the speaker wires enter the electronics box in the middle and that interferes with inserting an SLA battery. I would put them in the middle one side (front/back) next time.
- the rebate on the sides allows the metal cover to sit flush with the top. I cut a two depth the rebate on my table saw before assembling the top. The outer most rebate allows the cover to sit flush. The second was much deeper The idea was to make the center as thin as practical, and line up with the electronics box edge so it could be easily removed after glue up. It worked great.
Electronics cover - It is a tight squeeze to remove the plate without removing the handle. I would have put the power switch and volume on the same side if I were doing it again. Also, you can see spotting marks on the back side of the plate. I did those before painting the plate on a mill. They made it very easy to hand drill the holes I actually used. The max amp is covered in heat shrink tubing and double sided taped to two L brackets. The brackets are, in turn, taped to the metal plate.
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Aterren,
Very nice!
The screen door mesh looks good. I may have to find some. Was it a drama to install and will it keep its shape if it gets a knock or two?
I have the same handle as well, I think that the wide feet on it will help as the screw holes sit on ether side of the center brace.
I have some M4 tee nuts that I will install at the beginning of the build that will make it hopefully easier to install the handle and feet later on:
T nuts tee nuts pack of 50 M4 thread bright zinc finish | eBay
Very nice!
The screen door mesh looks good. I may have to find some. Was it a drama to install and will it keep its shape if it gets a knock or two?
I have the same handle as well, I think that the wide feet on it will help as the screw holes sit on ether side of the center brace.
I have some M4 tee nuts that I will install at the beginning of the build that will make it hopefully easier to install the handle and feet later on:
T nuts tee nuts pack of 50 M4 thread bright zinc finish | eBay
All up weight is 17 pounds (of 7.7 kg for those using a superior unit of measure).
@cremoire - I used t-nuts too and it worked out well. I put them in before glue up and dabbed the end with some silicone to prevent any air leaks. The handle doesnt stretch much so make sure you provide enough slack.
@cremoire - I used t-nuts too and it worked out well. I put them in before glue up and dabbed the end with some silicone to prevent any air leaks. The handle doesnt stretch much so make sure you provide enough slack.
I've read here that you should solder wires onto the batteries, but how do you solve if you want to bring like three batteries? I just want to make sure they will last the whole festival! Could i use crocodile clips?
Doesn't doing like rubenn here double the voltage?
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/clas...b-ultimate-party-machine-180.html#post2606439
Doesn't doing like rubenn here double the voltage?
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/clas...b-ultimate-party-machine-180.html#post2606439