I don't even know what a phaseometer is! You can get free software that will allow you to use your PC soundcard as an oscilloscope, if you want to go that direction. I think a test record costs less than $50, although I have never bought one either.
Do you have a blank record to use the method you brought up?
Let's back up and examine the "theoretical" part again. Drag from stylus exerts a force on offset tonearm, which causes a net force toward the centre of the record. So we want to apply an offsetting force. But why?
Because the skating force creates higher tracking force on one groove wall than on the other, causing one channel to have higher distortion, and to mistrack at lower groove modulation. So get a nice mono record, that hasn't been played so many times the grooves are already worn asymmetrically, and adjust the anti-skating force until both channels sound the same. If they already sound the same, why are we having this conversation?
One of the most detailed test discs for setting anti-skating is the H-Fi News one. Has nice protractors too. HFN 002 | A Review of the HiFi News Test Record | Vinyl Engine
Alternatively play a piano or choir record and try various anti-skate settings until you hear it spread even for volume between channels and to focus best. Compromise between start, middle, end of record portions. Some cartridges will be more indifferent than others, depends on stylus profile and VTF. Increasing VTF towards the heavier end of the range recommended in the cart's manual can help in crescendos or not.
if you believe that the start up surges use up "lifetime" then leave it on except for planned and prolonged OFF periods.
For daily use I would leave it ON overnight.
However, the alternative view that prolonged high temperatures use up "lifetime" then just leave it on for the listening periods.
Since I do not believe in over hot anything, I cannot fall into the second category.
You have to decide which camp you are in and switch ot non switch as appropriate.
Some long time back my employer looked at the cost of replacing fluorescent lighting and the cost of the switch gear required to Turn ON massive banks of fluorescents compared to the cost of the electricity used in permanent Lights ON.
They looked seriously at omitting the switch ON gear and having lights permanently ON for all new builds and thus having no ON switches and no cabling to these switches and no start up gear. That is a big capital cost to include or not.
For daily use I would leave it ON overnight.
However, the alternative view that prolonged high temperatures use up "lifetime" then just leave it on for the listening periods.
Since I do not believe in over hot anything, I cannot fall into the second category.
You have to decide which camp you are in and switch ot non switch as appropriate.
Some long time back my employer looked at the cost of replacing fluorescent lighting and the cost of the switch gear required to Turn ON massive banks of fluorescents compared to the cost of the electricity used in permanent Lights ON.
They looked seriously at omitting the switch ON gear and having lights permanently ON for all new builds and thus having no ON switches and no cabling to these switches and no start up gear. That is a big capital cost to include or not.
Consumes 10W total (both channels on). 10mins warm up bring the input stage bias fully up. 30mins-60mins take it to max ambient temp when boxed. Depends on box size obviously. You evaluate your power on practice vs. your listening sessions habits around the clock based on that info.
Substituting the 1% prp's and rn55's in Riaa with 0.1% tnpw and susumu's was an upgrade in refinement. Then i changed the vref mkp1839 with a JFX which brought some slight "warmth" to the sound. I wouldnt call it essential upgrade but more of "flavor" kind of thing. MKP1839 sounds a bit faster with slightly more pronounced highs, JFX is on the mellow side of things.
The biggest difference came from removing the tnpw as a loading resistor and installing the miniohm. Hate to sound like an advertisement, but these are wonderfull resistors. Resolution is really high but not in a clinical and treble focused way like the TX2352. It sounds neutral and the musical enjoyment is high. I find myself tapping my foot constantly. Now i can only imagine what this phono would sound like with a very costly upgrade of miniohm's in riaa cirquit.
The biggest difference came from removing the tnpw as a loading resistor and installing the miniohm. Hate to sound like an advertisement, but these are wonderfull resistors. Resolution is really high but not in a clinical and treble focused way like the TX2352. It sounds neutral and the musical enjoyment is high. I find myself tapping my foot constantly. Now i can only imagine what this phono would sound like with a very costly upgrade of miniohm's in riaa cirquit.
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Substituting the 1% prp's and rn55's in Riaa with 0.1% tnpw and susumu's was an upgrade in refinement. Then i changed the vref mkp1839 with a JFX which brought some slight "warmth" to the sound. I wouldnt call it essential upgrade but more of "flavor" kind of thing. MKP1839 sounds a bit faster with slightly more pronounced highs, JFX is on the mellow side of things.
The biggest difference came from removing the tnpw as a loading resistor and installing the miniohm. Hate to sound like an advertisement, but these are wonderfull resistors. Resolution is really high but not in a clinical and treble focused way like the TX2352. It sounds neutral and the musical enjoyment is high. I find myself tapping my foot constantly. Now i can only imagine what this phono would sound like with a very costly upgrade of miniohm's in riaa cirquit.
Your comments are very interesting, skouliki. But can you explain what the following are (and where I can buy them!
):* tnpw resistor
* miniohm resistor
* susumu (cap?).
Thanks,
Andy
Susumu RG and Vishay TNPW are smd resistors and available from Mouser. Miniohm resistors are a smaller wattage version of Econistor and Squaristor resistors and are available from Rhopoint Components. Some values are stocked in Farnell as well.
Precision (through hole) - Resistors - Components
Edit: You can buy directly from rhopoint components but you have to register an account first and then ask for a quote
Precision (through hole) - Resistors - Components
Edit: You can buy directly from rhopoint components but you have to register an account first and then ask for a quote
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I asked rhopoint for a quote in early december and haven't heard from them. I will contact them again.
Regards
Don't know abt that Marra, others might have a clue. One thing bothers me is the voltage between tp1 and tp2. It supposed to have a sweetspot around 3.6v - mine has that occationally. I've seen that it is moving between 3,2 and 3,8v - is this normal or should I keep on tweaking the pots? I don't know the starting position of the pots, I forgot to center them.
Regards
Regards
Probably due to that they are in open air...
Yepp, found it: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/analogue-source/129126-simplistic-njfet-riaa-1095.html#post3731815
Regards
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Substituting the 1% prp's and rn55's in Riaa with 0.1% tnpw and susumu's was an upgrade in refinement. Then i changed the vref mkp1839 with a JFX which brought some slight "warmth" to the sound. I wouldnt call it essential upgrade but more of "flavor" kind of thing. MKP1839 sounds a bit faster with slightly more pronounced highs, JFX is on the mellow side of things.
The biggest difference came from removing the tnpw as a loading resistor and installing the miniohm. Hate to sound like an advertisement, but these are wonderfull resistors. Resolution is really high but not in a clinical and treble focused way like the TX2352. It sounds neutral and the musical enjoyment is high. I find myself tapping my foot constantly. Now i can only imagine what this phono would sound like with a very costly upgrade of miniohm's in riaa cirquit.
You could move your input coax directly on the pins of your 5K load resistor to skip layout distance also. You don't have the DIP and other load options in use for now, so why not.