...and kissing cousins Victor ( FE126E) and Vulcan (FE166E)
correction: Valiant ( FE126En) and Victor (FE166En)
dave
At the risk of sounding like a broken LP (remember those?), I think the Avebury would need even more real estate - i.e. spacing from rear wall - than the SuperPensils to fully blossom, and regardless of contribution to cubic volume by 9 or even 10ft ceiling, I seriously question that 200sq ft would provide the listening distance for the panoramic soundstage of which this tall double rear mouth design is capable. I've heard the smaller sibling Maeshowe (A7.3) and kissing cousins Victor ( FE126E) and Vulcan (FE166E) fill a big room.
But if you're finding the GR V2s to not present any issues in the room, then I could be all wet. I have limited experience with open baffle designs, and while none that I have heard had issues with bass boom, there were other reasons why they're not quite right for me.
If the 12P is definitely the driver to be used, I'd seriously consider any of the smaller stand mounted designs already named.
I will consider your advice.
I may ask the carpenter to build all 3 carbinets for testing if he donot charge me too much !
after all this is diy .
correction: Valiant ( FE126En) and Victor (FE166En)
dave
thanks, even though we're in the same time zone, after midnight is much later for me than you
Please, i wasn't suggesting a Avebury in his 200sq' room, lol.At the risk of sounding like a broken LP (remember those?), I think the Avebury would need even more real estate - i.e. spacing from rear wall - than the SuperPensils to fully blossom, and regardless of contribution to cubic volume by 9 or even 10ft ceiling, I seriously question that 200sq ft would provide the listening distance for the panoramic soundstage of which this tall double rear mouth design is capable. I've heard the smaller sibling Maeshowe (A7.3) and kissing cousins Victor ( FE126E) and Vulcan (FE166E) fill a big room.
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If the 12P is definitely the driver to be used, I'd seriously consider any of the smaller stand mounted designs already named.
I'd love to build a pair but am afraid to do the 73.5" high Avebury in my largest, a smallish 234sq' ~ 13' x 18' room / 8' ceilings. The only thing that would even lead me to consider it is that it would not be pressurizing (not sure if thats the correct word), the small 234sq' room because one end wall has a 5' opening into a hallway/partially open staircase, and ~ 30" out from the opposite end wall of it's adjacent side wall is a 7.8' opening to a 12' x 11.5' room. I would be seated on the sofa up against that end wall in order to maintain minimal listening distance from the speakers and minimal speakers distances from room boundaries. Not even remotely ideal for those masterpieces
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- screws ~ every 4" along the cleats (and brace depending on it's design), with a closed cell foam weather stripping gasket. Chris suggest accounting for the space filled by the weather stripping. I don't unless you intend for the removable back to be a permanent feature and do not plan to permanently glue the back on when you realize you've spent enough time playing with the amount of fill.
Additionally, and imo, unless you have gorilla arms the removable back concept is overkill. A slightly oversized binding post plate, strategically located so you can reach where you cant thru the driver cutout should suffice.
Additionally, and imo, unless you have gorilla arms the removable back concept is overkill. A slightly oversized binding post plate, strategically located so you can reach where you cant thru the driver cutout should suffice.
- screws ~ every 4" along the cleats (and brace depending on it's design), with a closed cell foam weather stripping gasket. Chris suggest accounting for the space filled by the weather stripping. I don't unless you intend for the removable back to be a permanent feature and do not plan to permanently glue the back on when you realize you've spent enough time playing with the amount of fill.
Fair enough - if you're able to achieve an air-tight seal on the back panel without the use of gasket
for the 12Ps that's probably true, but I guess I just get stuck on a technique that works for the smaller drivers - try that out with the 7.3/ CHR70 etc.Additionally, and imo, unless you have gorilla arms the removable back concept is overkill. A slightly oversized binding post plate, strategically located so you can reach where you cant thru the driver cutout should suffice.
No not needed, the A12P comes with gasket material built into the frame.
Also, i believe Chris misunderstood what i wrote first paragraph post #26 wrt gasket material/removable back.
well then, could you clarify that for me?
- screws ~ every 4" along the cleats (and brace depending on it's design), with a closed cell foam weather stripping gasket.
Chris suggest accounting for the space filled by the weather stripping.
I don't unless you intend for the removable back to be a permanent feature and do not plan to permanently glue the back on when you realize you've spent enough time playing with the amount of fill.
Chris, i never said not to install a gasket when doing a removable back. I don't recommend accounting for the space which the gasket takes up if at some point you plan to permanently glue the back panel in place, and you want it to remain flush with the rest of the box.Fair enough - if you're able to achieve an air-tight seal on the back panel without the use of gasket
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Yeah, different mind sets, lol. This is probably my only Pencil build for now until Mark cooks up a advanced next generation A12P, assuming it'll require another box.
I'm very happy with the direction Mark took the 12P's allowing us to drive them with flea watt amps and the pleasing results to date
I'm very happy with the direction Mark took the 12P's allowing us to drive them with flea watt amps and the pleasing results to date
One last set of questions..
I'm not quite sure if the holes in the bracing account for 30-50% of the bracing itself..could be a little less...is this a huge issue? Nothing i can do about it now, sadly..
Also..how far behind the front opening should the polyfill/wool begin?
Sorry..my first time with DIY speakers
I'm not quite sure if the holes in the bracing account for 30-50% of the bracing itself..could be a little less...is this a huge issue? Nothing i can do about it now, sadly..
Also..how far behind the front opening should the polyfill/wool begin?
Sorry..my first time with DIY speakers
One last set of questions..
I'm not quite sure if the holes in the bracing account for 30-50% of the bracing itself..could be a little less...is this a huge issue? Nothing i can do about it now, sadly..
Also..how far behind the front opening should the polyfill/wool begin?
Sorry..my first time with DIY speakers
Anyone?
" Scott (Super Pensil designer) advises that the stuffing material be unformly distributed throughout the cabinet. "
This from a previous post..
And that's exactly the reason for my asking. I have yet to see a picture of the stuffing of a Superpensil enclosure. Uniformly distributed does not look like the one in the previous picture. I guess i could put it this way : Does the stuffing go from top to bottom and from front to back?
This from a previous post..
And that's exactly the reason for my asking. I have yet to see a picture of the stuffing of a Superpensil enclosure. Uniformly distributed does not look like the one in the previous picture. I guess i could put it this way : Does the stuffing go from top to bottom and from front to back?
KarlsMoody,
Probably there is no single correct answer for this. Depending on room and your system, personal taste (and I daresay stuffing material), the amount will vary.
Suggest you try out like the picture and then add as required. The removable back panel gives you that option.
Probably there is no single correct answer for this. Depending on room and your system, personal taste (and I daresay stuffing material), the amount will vary.
Suggest you try out like the picture and then add as required. The removable back panel gives you that option.
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