I Should Patent This....
One thing I left out.
Standard solder suckers use a teflon nozzle.
I shorten this teflon nozzle by 2/3mm or so, and then slide a 12mm length of silicone tubing over the teflon...to same/similar effective length as the original tip.
The result is a resilient/soft nozzle that seals perfectly against the pcb/hole and enables efficient removal of all solder without damaging/shifting pads due to the recoil action.
This will clear through hole components perfectly and is ideal when removing DIL ICs, connectors, anything....at close to zero cost....solder wick is expensive !.
Spraying furniture polish (IGA Signature brand, "Furniture Polish with Beeswax" $2.80) up the nozzle lubricates the O-ring seals and keeps the solder sucker working perfectly.
Don't be afraid to put your solder tip up the nozzle to clear blockages...the silicone tubing is surprisingly durable and the working end will last many, many hundreds of operations/joints....when it is cooked, just trim back a couple of mm and slide the remainder down.
Aero model shops sell the silicone tubing as fuel tubing....IIRC 1/4" is the size I use...you may have to buy 1 metre, and that will last you a life time.
I trust this helps you, Dan.
BTW, this wax polish stuff lubricates and protects just about anything really well...workshop hand/power tools, car/home/shed door locks/hinges/padlocks, gate latches, ute tray side/shipping container latches/hinges etc, etc...more uses than WD40 even...WD40 Company
You're most welcome, of course.Dan, thanks very much for that input ...
One thing I left out.
Standard solder suckers use a teflon nozzle.
I shorten this teflon nozzle by 2/3mm or so, and then slide a 12mm length of silicone tubing over the teflon...to same/similar effective length as the original tip.
The result is a resilient/soft nozzle that seals perfectly against the pcb/hole and enables efficient removal of all solder without damaging/shifting pads due to the recoil action.
This will clear through hole components perfectly and is ideal when removing DIL ICs, connectors, anything....at close to zero cost....solder wick is expensive !.
Spraying furniture polish (IGA Signature brand, "Furniture Polish with Beeswax" $2.80) up the nozzle lubricates the O-ring seals and keeps the solder sucker working perfectly.
Don't be afraid to put your solder tip up the nozzle to clear blockages...the silicone tubing is surprisingly durable and the working end will last many, many hundreds of operations/joints....when it is cooked, just trim back a couple of mm and slide the remainder down.
Aero model shops sell the silicone tubing as fuel tubing....IIRC 1/4" is the size I use...you may have to buy 1 metre, and that will last you a life time.
I trust this helps you, Dan.
BTW, this wax polish stuff lubricates and protects just about anything really well...workshop hand/power tools, car/home/shed door locks/hinges/padlocks, gate latches, ute tray side/shipping container latches/hinges etc, etc...more uses than WD40 even...WD40 Company
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FWIW (and that ain't much compared to folks who are actually paid for their knowledge of soldering) when I learned to solder on electronics (as opposed to sheet metal in jr high school) I learned from an experienced repair technician who I respected. Our parts sat in plastic bins, often for years for components like resistors; power transistors had a much higher turnover. Before he inserted a part he always quickly ran the lead through the jaws of a pair of needle-nose pliers, to straighten the leads and to remove oxidation, tape residue, and assorted crud. I never saw him get down to copper, just knocked off the nasty-looking stuff. Leads so prepared seemed to solder easily and quickly, so I picked up the habit.
I'm sure he never heard the word "passivated" in his life, but he sure repaired a lot of Japanese amplifiers (back when they were made in Japan).
I am grateful to JN for opening my eyes to some FACTS about soldering, and sharing his expertise. I will try to learn from him. However, I don't have a solder pot, and I don't intend to get one, so when I see a nasty lead on an old resistor, I'll probably still knock off the oxides with something abrasive. Old habits die hard. But I promise I will try to improve. I will stop relying on the rosin core of my solder and pick up some proper liquid flux.
I'm sure he never heard the word "passivated" in his life, but he sure repaired a lot of Japanese amplifiers (back when they were made in Japan).
I am grateful to JN for opening my eyes to some FACTS about soldering, and sharing his expertise. I will try to learn from him. However, I don't have a solder pot, and I don't intend to get one, so when I see a nasty lead on an old resistor, I'll probably still knock off the oxides with something abrasive. Old habits die hard. But I promise I will try to improve. I will stop relying on the rosin core of my solder and pick up some proper liquid flux.
Nezbleu, what your 'experienced repair technician' did EXACTLY what I have been talking about.
MY resistors sit in plastic bins, often for years. Before inserting a part, I always quickly run the lead through the jaws of a pair of needle-nose pliers, to straighten the leads and remove oxidation, tape residue, and assorted crud. And I never get down to copper, just knock off the nasty looking stuff. Leads so prepared seem to solder easily and quickly. That is why I am trying to share my habit! '-)
MY resistors sit in plastic bins, often for years. Before inserting a part, I always quickly run the lead through the jaws of a pair of needle-nose pliers, to straighten the leads and remove oxidation, tape residue, and assorted crud. And I never get down to copper, just knock off the nasty looking stuff. Leads so prepared seem to solder easily and quickly. That is why I am trying to share my habit! '-)
I prefer the paste to the liquid, just for ease of application. And the comfort of knowing it won't spill.
I sometimes use the pliers method on components, and applying solder to the iron tip and joint simultaneously (though all the texts say not to).
I also prefer a desoldering bulb to the ****-it-and-fire vacuum pump style. I seem to be in the minority with at one. It provides easier use and better control for me.
I guess the censors will have you guess what the complete gun analogy is.
I sometimes use the pliers method on components, and applying solder to the iron tip and joint simultaneously (though all the texts say not to).
I also prefer a desoldering bulb to the ****-it-and-fire vacuum pump style. I seem to be in the minority with at one. It provides easier use and better control for me.
I guess the censors will have you guess what the complete gun analogy is.
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The slap method for clearing THP boards works a treat. No more solder wick, and I use my solder suckers MUCH less now.
https://www.sparkfun.com/tutorials/339
https://www.sparkfun.com/tutorials/339
Mr. Curl
I had to go back and look for the start of the scraping issue:
After you initially advised (Sep 4) for leads cleaning by scraping the leads:
jneutron remarked as thus:
Posts with data as to the technical details of the importance of intermetallics and other less known but important technical factors followed, you insisting on mechanical scraping and finally, you posting this:
as if “the details of the others” were technically in line with your suggestion or at least they were of secondary importance.
This IMO is lack of communication.
George
On another area of interest:
Many here have heard that the Toshiba P channel jfet replacement is becoming available. We have tried to get this happening for years, because a significant number of design approaches such as the complementary differential jfet input are best made with high Gm, relatively similar complementary jets, and Toshiba's were the best.
I know that Linear Systems has been reluctant to advertise them, due to a finite inventory, but I presume that they well be offering them generally in the near future.
This is certainly a relief for me, because most of my designs depend on this topology. Let's hope!
Many here have heard that the Toshiba P channel jfet replacement is becoming available. We have tried to get this happening for years, because a significant number of design approaches such as the complementary differential jfet input are best made with high Gm, relatively similar complementary jets, and Toshiba's were the best.
I know that Linear Systems has been reluctant to advertise them, due to a finite inventory, but I presume that they well be offering them generally in the near future.
This is certainly a relief for me, because most of my designs depend on this topology. Let's hope!
John, you did see that LIS provided Didden with a bag of them to be distributed as one per copy, along with an LSK170, with the latest Linear Audio issue? That makes them sound a lot more real to me. SY has a datasheet but it is provisional.
I hate with a passion the guys that use solder wick every 4" or so and then throw the rest away even though I don't pay for it. I use the end and cut it off each time.
As I said I have samples of every grade and now from more than 1 date code.
Mr Curl
What I think or what I am unable to think, should not make you worry.
My understanding is that jneutron tried to make clear that scraping practices either undefined or as per the methods you wrote here
pose the risk of removing the essential layers of intermetallics thus leading in worsening the solderability.
He went on to explain how this may happen and why the consideration of other aspects of soldering process may provide for positive results without the need of exercising the -potential risky- scraping of the leads.
You haven’t acknowledged that you considered his inputs.
This is what I call lack of communication.
End of story
George
George, I am only trying to help people who HAND SOLDER with older resistors and caps, and how it certainly can't hurt to take care with cleaning the leads. Also, many cleaning techniques can potentially damage the device being 'cleaned' or require several steps. Now, I don't know it you personally am involved with small production soldering, but you would be foolish to ignore my input, if you are.
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