I asked in the solid state thread, but I suppose I can cover it here, too. I'm starting to think about building an amplifier to go with these, or to go with anything, really. I've looked at Gainphile's 8 channel Class T using the Sure boards, however I'm also considering something like the Destroyer-X boards, which can be had on E-Bay for not much more than a pair of the Sure class T boards.
What do you guys think?
What do you guys think?
I think I'm going to Hypex after using a 6-channel Sure setup for over a year. I built the 6-channel amp for a 4-way dipole I had at the time. The Sure boards have a noticeable turn on/off thump......the turn off is the worst. Had a tweeter channel let go one day. Thought the comp driver was fried but fortunately it stood up to the hellacious pop from the amp. A bit of noise from the drivers when it's on but it wasn't too bad on my dipoles. Not noticeable from the lp. I will say I'm fairly happy with the sq.
If you're one of those "what if I would have........" (like me!) type of guys I'd save your money for something from Hypex or Class D Audio here in the states. Then again the Sure stuff is so cheap that could hold you over for a while. I'd suggest some sort of driver protection circuit if you do go with the Sure.
Naw, I've got it going straight through from speaker outs -> passive network -> drivers. I measured it yesterday and it's got some dips that are partially room modes and partially crossover goofy-ness. It's "listenable" meaning I can play it at low volumes when I'm busy with other things, but it's rather thin.
I'm sure it'll be much better when complete. I keep getting busy, I really need to drag one outside with the one MiniDSP and get at least one channel squared away...and then try to reserve judgement until the other dsp arrives.
Mail takes so long from China!
As far as the amplifiers, after a few drinks and some dreaming about it last night, I think I'm going to go crazy and order 4 sets of the DX amp boards, along with speaker protection and power supply boards. I'm not sure if I should try to use a switching power supply or just get a massive toroid and a handful of bridge rectifiers.
I just need to find a good chassis with heatsinks.
I drug one of them outside this morning so I could get the MiniDSP set properly and the xml file saved so I could load it into the second one when it gets here.
Here's the result and what I did to get it.
What do you guys think?
Here's the result and what I did to get it.
What do you guys think?
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Well, that's pretty darn flat for a first go. If you find the high end a little too much, remember even SL now uses a slow rolloff into the high end starting from around 1KHz taking down the top most range of the tweeter by 2-3dB or to taste. I find it also depends on how "live" your room is.
Greg
Greg
It's probably going to be a little bright, it sounded bright outside. It should be trivial to adjust a bit once they're both in place
Hi just from the pic you need to raise the speakers much higher from the ground to have better midrange measurement
Hi just from the pic you need to raise the speakers much higher from the ground to have better midrange measurement
I had thought about raising it up high, I remember seeing the photo of when you measured yours and it was up on an ironing board
So, I guess it should be up for only the mid measurement? I remember Rudolf saying that the woofers should be near the ground, a concept I'm familiar with, which is why I left it where it was.
Out of curiosity, what sort of effect will measuring it like I did have on the mid?
Bwahahaha, it would seem that a lot of my voltage / distortion issues were coming from the wall wart power supply I was using. I've got an old laptop 16v / 4.5A supply running both of these, they now has no trouble driving multichannel inputs to a decent level.
Note to others using MiniDSP boards: do yourself a favor and use a laptop SMPS!
Edit: FML, I just noticed that I have the left and right boards reversed inside the case...*eye twitch*
Edit2: Maybe you guys might get a kick out of this.
Note to others using MiniDSP boards: do yourself a favor and use a laptop SMPS!
Edit: FML, I just noticed that I have the left and right boards reversed inside the case...*eye twitch*
Edit2: Maybe you guys might get a kick out of this.
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Concerning Edit#2, I'm currently flushing my ears out with isopropyl alcohol. I love Phil, but that song is not one of the good ones.
Hahahaha, that was the only one I had on my hard drive that was two hearts, except the U2 one, which is even worse.
Ok, so, there's some cone ringing or something going on that's really irritating, and I can't seem to pinpoint it. I re-measured them in-room so that I could do some global EQ, but I'm having a really hard time trying to voice these, as they aren't really behaving like the box speakers I'm used to.
I'm not sure if it's because of the air load on the drivers (or lack of) or what, but I'm gonna run out of beer before I figure out what part of this is pi**ing me off...I keep wanting to yawn to pop my ears!
I'm sure there's just some difference that I haven't quite put my finger on from boxed to OB, besides dipole peak.
I'm not sure if it's because of the air load on the drivers (or lack of) or what, but I'm gonna run out of beer before I figure out what part of this is pi**ing me off...I keep wanting to yawn to pop my ears!
I'm sure there's just some difference that I haven't quite put my finger on from boxed to OB, besides dipole peak.
Hi just from the pic you need to raise the speakers much higher from the ground to have better midrange measurement
Thanks again for this, I think I've made some good progress this morning raising the baffle up about 36 inches, I was able to get a mid measurement that let me cure some of the issues.
More or less I'm looking for something that'll do ~400 up to 4 or 5k, partially so I can get away with shallower crossover slopes and still have decent power handling for the Neo3.
I was considering getting a pair of Neo 10s, but GD...they're expensive.
Edit: Do you mean the Markaudio 8"s?
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