Broken amp
i really need some help with this one! last night i had it all hooked up, and it worked like a charm, it played loud and clear, no problems at all. i then realized the next day, that i had made a mistake in some wiring with a button, so ofc, i decided to fix it. BUT now, when it is all hooked up the way it should the only thing i get from my AMP6-basic Assembled is this annoying clicking noise. and only from the left piezo's. no sound from anything else! i have eliminated all other possibilities, it must be the amp, with the amp hooked up directly to the battery, with no wiring but + and - for the amp. I have a video, so you guys can hear, and see it. it is on the Boominator Facebook page
Also, when hooking my iphone up with the jack plug, and playing music, i still get nothing but the clicking sound.
PS. i am aware that the clicking noise is a short in the input or output wires according to the troubleshooting page, but as i bought it assembled, and it have worked like a charm before, and i have not touched anything it is not the soldering. I have also had it hooked up to a other pair of speakers, from my living room. Making sure NOTHING was short circuiting, and still with the same result. i have absolutely no clue of what to do. and with festival season coming up, i am pretty sad, as i can not afford another assembled AMP6, and i do not have the skills to solder one myself.
Thx in advance!
EDIT: Here is a link to the Video. View My Video
i really need some help with this one! last night i had it all hooked up, and it worked like a charm, it played loud and clear, no problems at all. i then realized the next day, that i had made a mistake in some wiring with a button, so ofc, i decided to fix it. BUT now, when it is all hooked up the way it should the only thing i get from my AMP6-basic Assembled is this annoying clicking noise. and only from the left piezo's. no sound from anything else! i have eliminated all other possibilities, it must be the amp, with the amp hooked up directly to the battery, with no wiring but + and - for the amp. I have a video, so you guys can hear, and see it. it is on the Boominator Facebook page
Also, when hooking my iphone up with the jack plug, and playing music, i still get nothing but the clicking sound.
PS. i am aware that the clicking noise is a short in the input or output wires according to the troubleshooting page, but as i bought it assembled, and it have worked like a charm before, and i have not touched anything it is not the soldering. I have also had it hooked up to a other pair of speakers, from my living room. Making sure NOTHING was short circuiting, and still with the same result. i have absolutely no clue of what to do. and with festival season coming up, i am pretty sad, as i can not afford another assembled AMP6, and i do not have the skills to solder one myself.
Thx in advance!
EDIT: Here is a link to the Video. View My Video
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AMP6 failure
Unfortunately, after my initial excitement of a fully working AMP6, alas, I cant find out what is wrong with it, its dead.......
I've had to resort to reordering a ready made AMP6 (my boominator has been an expensive experiment).......
It hasn't put me off, I just know that I'm no good at electronics so I will be looking for a ready made AMP9 (I'm not even going to attempt it)....
I can see why people are attracted to cheap chinese amps, the one I'm using was £19 as opposed to £68 for an AMP6..... and it doesnt sound that bad.....
*BJ*
Unfortunately, after my initial excitement of a fully working AMP6, alas, I cant find out what is wrong with it, its dead.......
I've had to resort to reordering a ready made AMP6 (my boominator has been an expensive experiment).......
It hasn't put me off, I just know that I'm no good at electronics so I will be looking for a ready made AMP9 (I'm not even going to attempt it)....
I can see why people are attracted to cheap chinese amps, the one I'm using was £19 as opposed to £68 for an AMP6..... and it doesnt sound that bad.....
*BJ*
It's actually only €30 and a bit of elbow grease. The AMP6 Sneaky is really easy to solder
It's actually only €30 and a bit of elbow grease. The AMP6 Sneaky is really easy to solder
I don't think that the AMP6 sneaky is any easier to solder than the basic..... I managed to **** that up and I'm 40 euros down..... I'm crap at electronics and I have to buy ready made..... I've learned nothing by makin my first amp because I can't figure out what is wrong with it so its pointless building another....
BJ
I went and bought all of the wood, and got it cut at the vendor to get accurate measures.
Got home and did a quick stacking of wood and drivers (GW-1058), to match how the boominator would be put together. But I seem to be having a problem, since there is a gap of around 5mm between the stack and the side panel, this being without the grills that would add a little extra.
I have measured the end pieces and they are exactly 276*276mm as the Sketchup shows, and with the wood being 12mm thick, the only thing I can think of as a source of error is the drivers.
So my question is: Will these 5mm be gained when the rubber gasket on the drivers is compressed when gluing the whole thing together, or do I have a problem?
I tried "sitting" on the stack to compress the gaskets, and it seems they just about get compressed enough, but this worries me as it seems it would put a lot of stress on the glue?
Additionally, I have yet to see how people get the wiring from speaker compartments to electronic compartment? Do I simply but them between the middle pieces and the lid, or drill a small hole to put the wire through, and then seal with silicone (non solvent) ?
Edit:
If this gap won't be closed by compression, then I might think it is due to the drivers not being completely flat on the back, here they are thicker around the middle of the back of the drivers.
Pictures of the stackup:
Got home and did a quick stacking of wood and drivers (GW-1058), to match how the boominator would be put together. But I seem to be having a problem, since there is a gap of around 5mm between the stack and the side panel, this being without the grills that would add a little extra.
I have measured the end pieces and they are exactly 276*276mm as the Sketchup shows, and with the wood being 12mm thick, the only thing I can think of as a source of error is the drivers.
So my question is: Will these 5mm be gained when the rubber gasket on the drivers is compressed when gluing the whole thing together, or do I have a problem?
I tried "sitting" on the stack to compress the gaskets, and it seems they just about get compressed enough, but this worries me as it seems it would put a lot of stress on the glue?
Additionally, I have yet to see how people get the wiring from speaker compartments to electronic compartment? Do I simply but them between the middle pieces and the lid, or drill a small hole to put the wire through, and then seal with silicone (non solvent) ?
Edit:
If this gap won't be closed by compression, then I might think it is due to the drivers not being completely flat on the back, here they are thicker around the middle of the back of the drivers.
Pictures of the stackup:
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Hi. The GW1058 drivers have been updated to accommodate higher Xlim (maximum cone excursion limit). It's the bump on the back.
Solution is pretty straight forward and simple. You just route out that bump or cut a hole big enough in each of the blocks of wood between the magnets and center brace. Routing it out is far the best option though.
The GW1058 should then fit with grills between baffles and drivers with about 1mm too much which is compressed in assembly. So minimal compression of the sealing gasket just like for the HP10Ws.
Most people just drill a hole and seal that after to get cables into the speaker compartments. Some prefer to have connectors instead. Either will work fine.
Solution is pretty straight forward and simple. You just route out that bump or cut a hole big enough in each of the blocks of wood between the magnets and center brace. Routing it out is far the best option though.
The GW1058 should then fit with grills between baffles and drivers with about 1mm too much which is compressed in assembly. So minimal compression of the sealing gasket just like for the HP10Ws.
Most people just drill a hole and seal that after to get cables into the speaker compartments. Some prefer to have connectors instead. Either will work fine.
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Hi.
I still wait for a New bms for my batterypack(lifeo4). I got charger from same produser and there is a led who is red when charge and turn green when full charge. If i charge whitout bms will this led still turn green when finnished?( I'm a bit afraid to destroy batteries).
I have a low hiss sound when unmuting is this normal?
rgs Bjoern
I still wait for a New bms for my batterypack(lifeo4). I got charger from same produser and there is a led who is red when charge and turn green when full charge. If i charge whitout bms will this led still turn green when finnished?( I'm a bit afraid to destroy batteries).
I have a low hiss sound when unmuting is this normal?
rgs Bjoern
John, I have the equipment to solder these kits for you. Drop me a PM if you're interested - methinks you'll save some money.
Chris
Sorry for posting again, didn't find any edit button.
My amp6 is dead and I'v done this list and got stuck on nr 4 and 5. The C2 seems to be dead and so is the R7. But C5 gives about 12v. What to do? Help please.
1. Check if the power supply polarity is correct.
2. Check if you have the correct voltage after the D1 diode.
3. Check all soldering on the power supply and the D1 diode direction
4. Check if you have 5V over C2 (5V is from a voltage regulator in the Tripath chip)
5. Check if you have about 1.2 V over R7 (internal reference voltage for the chip)
6. Check if you have about 10V over C5 (a voltage generated in the Tripath chip)
My amp6 is dead and I'v done this list and got stuck on nr 4 and 5. The C2 seems to be dead and so is the R7. But C5 gives about 12v. What to do? Help please.
1. Check if the power supply polarity is correct.
2. Check if you have the correct voltage after the D1 diode.
3. Check all soldering on the power supply and the D1 diode direction
4. Check if you have 5V over C2 (5V is from a voltage regulator in the Tripath chip)
5. Check if you have about 1.2 V over R7 (internal reference voltage for the chip)
6. Check if you have about 10V over C5 (a voltage generated in the Tripath chip)
I'm pretty sure you only need to connect one of the jumpers, - the one closest to R3 for awake mode.
hi there, this is my first post after becoming hooked on the boominator idea.
forgive me please with my naïve enquiry, but i am looking to get some drivers in the uk for the halfinator, do they have to be 4 ohms, and also what is so specific about the drivers listed on the wiki?
will any from this site work?
Blue Aran - Professional Sound and Lighting > Speaker Components > Loudspeaker Drivers > 10 Inch Drivers
forgive me please with my naïve enquiry, but i am looking to get some drivers in the uk for the halfinator, do they have to be 4 ohms, and also what is so specific about the drivers listed on the wiki?
will any from this site work?
Blue Aran - Professional Sound and Lighting > Speaker Components > Loudspeaker Drivers > 10 Inch Drivers
Hi, blue Aran do not stock the correct drivers in the UK.... I bought my HP10Ws from interteknik in Germany, no probs..... Do not use any other drivers.... won't sound good....
BJ
Thanks, that is very kind....I don't know what I'm doing wrong, I may take you up on that..... I'll PM you.
BJ
thanks brummie, have you a link to their website?
also in a basic layman's term, what will be the noticeable bad sound difference and how and what makes the hp10ws and its alternatives sufficient?
The Boominator is designed for the HP10W with it's specific parameter, frequency response, physical size, and mechanical properties.
The alternatives, GW1058 and Basslite, are close enough that they can with slight modification to the design be used instead but for different purposes.
The GW1058 is the alternative for north american builders as the HP10W is still not available on that market.
The Basslite S2010 is an alternative for making a PRO version that is lighter and louder, but also a lot more costly as you can't use piezoes in combination with this driver as the sensitivity is too high and frequency response range too limited.
If you do not live in north america or intend to build a PRO version, I strongly advice to get the p.audio HP10W.
The tweeter alternatives to the original Motorola/CTS/Piezo source KSN1001 are cheap replicas of the same, however, strive to get a name brand due to quality control generally being very relaxed on replicas otherwise. If you buy replicas from no-name brands, I advice buying at least 5-6, and better still 8-10. Take the best 4 and toss the rest.
The other alternatives to tweeters are p.audio PHT407N or Monacor MHD-220N/RD. Note that all filters and recommendations in this thread are calculated with the PHT407N, if you use the Monacor you have to adjust yourself for the 3dB higher sensitivity and slightly different frequency response.
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