PeeCeeBee

Hand Made PeeCeeBee

Beautyful job. Now just increase the thickness of the power and output traces and etch it ASAP! :)
Build two ;) , get blown away and be proud of your PeeCeeBee, like us.

Satisfaction, gurranteed! :D
Hi Shaan & everybody

Finally I have a pair of PeeCeeBee :cool: even not finnish yet hehehe :D
 

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My take of the PeeCeeBee Rev 1.4

I want to retrofit an AV amp with a pair of VSSA PeeCeeBee and I made the following PCB with thru-hole components. It is based on LazyCat Rev 1.4 with shunt regulator and JFET current source. I have made one channel & it is singing :D
 

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This is pretty ridiculous. I have mentioned multiple times that this thread is for discussion of VSSA PCBs "without CCS". That remains a topic of the original VSSA thread.

Seems like I need to speak louder.

My friends,
>>Please, PLEASE, don't post here if your amp has 1.CCS, 2.Multilayer Board, 3.Parallel caps in feedback node.<<

Any future post(s) containing/promoting any of the above will be considered as off-topic and will be reported to the moderators. I hope the point has been made clear.

Thankfully,
shaan
 
@Shaan: I think you have more than met your goal of making the VSSA accessible to everyone, and all the testimonials from those who have built a board from you schematic pretty much agree that the results are excellent with 6 transistors, and with components easily obtained anywhere. That pretty much speaks for itself... :)

I have been testing with the simplest supply I can think of, transformer, rectifier, 2x4700uF per rail, fuse... and comparing with a Tektronix bench supply, still sounds very good, at least at average listening level, and 8-ohm speaker (bigger load would probably require much larger reservoir caps).

If only all my home projects turned out this well... ;)
:cheers:
 
TeeOhThree PeeCeeBee Reference Post

OK, here is my reference post regarding the PeeCeeBee for TO-3 output devices.

My board is 4" x 3" (101.6mm x 76.2mm). Offset and bias are adjusted if required with the installation of fixed resistors; I temporarily installed a potentiometer to get what I wanted and installed the closest standard value onto the board. There are two different layouts to accommodate either the Japanese ECB pinout or the BC5xxC CBE pinout, so please be aware of which files you use. There is provision for compensation of the VAS. If a Zobel is desired then install it at the speaker terminals inside the case or solder it beneath the board.

This is in keeping with Shaan's desire to maintain a comparatively simple VSSA variant that is easy for the DIY builder to produce at home using common through hole components, an easy to produce single sided PCB and without any features like CCSs and parallel bypassing. My hope is that this serves anyone who chooses to use it well, enjoy.
 

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My friends,
>>Please, PLEASE, don't post here if your amp has 1.CCS, 2.Multilayer Board, 3.Parallel caps in feedback node.<<

Thankfully,
shaan

Hi Shaan,

I apologise for NOT reading all 400 messages before I posted my version of REJECTED PeeCeeBee. I read all the recent posts from page 31 onwards, plus the first five pages of this thread and I only found some casual reference to the omission of CCS on page 1.
Anyway I am not trying to pollute your thread but I just build a PCB with the parts that I already got to suit my requirements. :)
TO-92 JFET are a bit hard-to-find nowadays and they may need a bit of bread-boarding to get to the required CCS current. Our master LazyCat designed a simple and yet elegant way to use the TLVH431 for bias reference and the output bias had been very stable with this shunt regulator. This is my two cents.

Cheers, sng001
 
Hi sng001. :wave:

I have absolutely no problem with the fact that those premium components may well bring VSSA to the top of the greatest ever amps list. However, this thread will remain in the "easy and available" way. Also, budget is a factor, and one can get a stereo set of complete boards done at or under $60, fast. Like any average LTP based amp.

Now that you mentioned it, I think I will add the rules in the first post. Hope it will help keep the thread clean.

Your board is very cool. And its not rejected or something like that, only pointed to the place it belongs - the great VSSA thread. After all, one must appreciate the hard work you've put into the layout. :up:

shaan
 
A stereo set for under $60

Hi sng001. :wave:

I have absolutely no problem with the fact that those premium components may well bring VSSA to the top of the greatest ever amps list. However, this thread will remain in the "easy and available" way. Also, budget is a factor, and one can get a stereo set of complete boards done at or under $60, fast. shaan

Hi Shaan,

I think that I can build a stereo set for just under $60, provided you know where to buy components and avoid expensive delivery charge.

The big-ticket items:
2 pairs of 2SJ162+2SK1058 = $20 (Tayda)
8 x Nichicon UFG1H102MHM = $10 (rs-components : 602-2523)
4 x Wima 6.8uF Film cap = $8 (MKS4C046805D00KSSD - WIMA - CAPACITOR, 6.8UF, 63V | element14 Australia)
5 x TLV431 = $2 (rs-components : 661-9846 )
5 x Rubycon ZL 2200uF 6.3V = $7 (rs-components : 627-0873 )
4 x 2SK117 = $1 (Tayda)
10 x 1uF film cap = $3.5 (Tayda)
TO-126 pair : 2SB1109+2SD1609 = $2 (from my parts bin)
BC550+BC560 = 0.50 (from my parts bin)
Subtotal = $54


RS-components does free delivery in most countries and the delivery charge for Tayda is very reasonable.

Cheers, sng001
 
Cheers, sng001

Hi sng. Seems you get my point and the rules very clear. I wish I was born in Australia. ;)

1058/162 pair costs $7 where I live. Don't worry they can take the torture, tested. ;)

Congrats on your bargain. We'll watch your progress in the VSSA thread. :)
cheers

.....


Thanks Jason and PMI for uploading the files. They will be linked in the first post shortly. :worship:
 
My friends,
>>Please, PLEASE, don't post here if your amp has 1.CCS, 2.Multilayer Board, 3.Parallel caps in feedback node.<<

Thankfully,
shaan
Dear Shaan,
if I changed some parts is that okay...
on the picture I replace BD139-140 with something different ;)
not soldered yet, if it is okay I will solder if not I will replace with 139-140 instead...

In my PeeCeeBee also we can add a pair more 1000uF at the rails if needed :cool:
BTW what is the HFE of your input pair?
I don't have any matched yet,

Regards
 

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Dear Shaan,
if I changed some parts is that okay...

Yes of course! Come on man it's your own peeceebee! :)

on the picture I replace BD139-140 with something different ;)
not soldered yet, if it is okay I will solder if not I will replace with 139-140 instead...

I got a feeling it will work without any problem. ;)

In my PeeCeeBee also we can add a pair more 1000uF at the rails if needed :cool:

:cool: :cool:

BTW what is the HFE of your input pair?

Approximately 380. BC559B/BC549B.

Try using the ones having the highest rated ones, i.e. 'C' suffixed ones with hFE of 600 or more. :up:
 
Try using the ones having the highest rated ones, i.e. 'C' suffixed ones with hFE of 600 or more. :up:
Speaking of transistors, I wonder if Shaan, or someone else, should say a little about measuring/matching the transistor pairs, at what current, and how closely they need to be matched.

I have pretty much conceded that matching hFE using a meter with an fFE measurement setting built in may not have the best results, because you really do not know how or from what current hFE is calculated.

What I do NOT know is the best method for this specific circuit. I can make a guess, but perhaps this is something that has come op in one of the other SSA or TSSA threads... ?
 
Speaking of transistors, I wonder if Shaan, or someone else, should say a little about measuring/matching the transistors... .,perhaps this is something that has come op in one of the other SSA or TSSA threads... ?

Yes this has been discussed in quite some length in the SSA thread. Run a search and you'll find a handful of posts, many of them from Andrej himself. Useful of course.