Well, that is the most effective, but if they are big enough it doesnt matter that much. Heres mine standing fins down on the desk over an hour.
30,6 Celsius
/Staffan
If you are running less than 4R7 the heatsinks realy start to come into play. Above that the MOSFETs barely get warm anyway.
Some guys have been pushing the Salas reg to silly currents. I tried 100mA, 300mA, 600mA and 1.2A and to me they all sounded the same. I eventually opted for longetivity by keeping everything cool and now run at about 200mA.
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I'm also looking to do 1 pair R/L of RCA inputs to 2 pairs of R/L of RCA outputs after the PCB1. I'm running my PCB1 as just a buffer having no vol control. I was going to run the RCA in to the DCB1 and then run two pairs of outputs
I'm going to run on output R/L to a tube amp with 180K input impedance and then the other output R/L to a plate amp (28K input impedance) running a sub.
The 100R resistors run on the ouput.. Is this for situations like I have where the two amps i'm driving are so far apart on input impedance?
For the Right channel as an example. Would I run the + output of a R channel to two 100 R resistors and then one resistor to the 1 Right RCA + output and then the next resistor to the other 1 Right RCA + output?
I've done some internet research. I follow you on that needed circut now.
I'm finding some interesting kits. This kit looks like a candidate. This kit is two Analog VU meters and a PCB for the circut you mention. You could power the PCB with the power supply of the DCB1 perhaps. The VU's look a little cheap so I worry about them holding up...
Link to Kit:
VU KIT
For some reason a pair of back lit VU meters has a cool old school look... If I can pull it off and not mess up the sound/performance of the DCB1 then cool. I think I could buy this kit and then just run a R/Neutral/L connection to this PCB and then power this with the DCB1 PCB.
What connection spots on the DBC1 would have DC10-15V? I'm going to run with a 15 100MA tranny
I'm finding some interesting kits. This kit looks like a candidate. This kit is two Analog VU meters and a PCB for the circut you mention. You could power the PCB with the power supply of the DCB1 perhaps. The VU's look a little cheap so I worry about them holding up...
Link to Kit:
VU KIT
For some reason a pair of back lit VU meters has a cool old school look... If I can pull it off and not mess up the sound/performance of the DCB1 then cool. I think I could buy this kit and then just run a R/Neutral/L connection to this PCB and then power this with the DCB1 PCB.
What connection spots on the DBC1 would have DC10-15V? I'm going to run with a 15 100MA tranny
If that circuit ain't a burden creating too much heat on the 7812 for the relay, take a +12V auxiliary line from there. So not to mess with the audio PSU. Can also tap off from the positive side filter caps with a twisted pair to an additional LM7812 for the meters circuit. With 0.1uF caps across the chip reg's input and output for its stability.
I thought I've seen others running some LED power indicator bulb from the VOUT. The specs on this kit that the DC 10 volt is to just power the LED lights in the VU meters
I supose I could just build and then listen... Try this kit connected and see if I hear any difference?
I'm pretty new to this. I'm not sure what pollute the power feed means.. I was just thinking the 100VA transformer, all the caps in the power supply.. That the power supply would be able to handle just a bit more load.
I supose I could just build and then listen... Try this kit connected and see if I hear any difference?
I'm pretty new to this. I'm not sure what pollute the power feed means.. I was just thinking the 100VA transformer, all the caps in the power supply.. That the power supply would be able to handle just a bit more load.
For the "take a +12V auxiliary line from there" How do I ID the spot on the PCB where you are talking about?
Sorry for the noob question here... I am about to place an order with the Canadian toroidal transformer company "SumR". His transformer come with a 117V primary. I understand that Canada has 110V line voltages. My wall voltage ranges from 116-122. I can get him to wind a 120V primary version. Just wondering if this is an issue...? I am planning to get the 80VA, 2X15V toroidal with all shielding. Thanks in advance
