I am sure the Jensen Copper Foil will do great in that position. It looks like I am going to be removing the Wima's I currently have installed. I didn't realize this was an area worth upgrading. Now i understand that they are the bypass caps for the 5-LED chain. I just looked up the Jensens that you bought and my eyes went to the "paper case" version of what you bought. $104.06/each!!! $37 for the copper foil (aluminum case) is more along my guidelines for continued sanity..
Salas mentioned that i should look into getting some teflon type caps for that position. He suggested some Russian teflon caps with metal bodies. I have seen them positively reviewed. Not to mention they are cheap.
Due to my having a top-notch attenuator, apparently top notch caps in this position would be a good idea. Need to do more research about this. Any suggestions of a .22uF cap that is teflon or a teflon mix would be helpful. Before i do anything, i need to get a transformer. I am eager to test the unit..
Salas mentioned that i should look into getting some teflon type caps for that position. He suggested some Russian teflon caps with metal bodies. I have seen them positively reviewed. Not to mention they are cheap.
Due to my having a top-notch attenuator, apparently top notch caps in this position would be a good idea. Need to do more research about this. Any suggestions of a .22uF cap that is teflon or a teflon mix would be helpful. Before i do anything, i need to get a transformer. I am eager to test the unit..
Heatsink for Caddock resistors
You can also buy the same heatsink form Digikey.
235-85AB Wakefield Thermal Solutions | 345-1016-ND | DigiKey
You can also buy the same heatsink form Digikey.
235-85AB Wakefield Thermal Solutions | 345-1016-ND | DigiKey
Shop around partsConnexion for the capacitors. You can do research Caps in this .22uF spot for days. 37 each was pushing what I'd normally do $$ wise. As with all you just need to guage how far you will go with the insanity of spend as we painfully now know.
I've got a Bob Latino ST120 tube amp and I run some older .22uF Russian Paper in Oil caps he sells. He measures and sends a balanced pair with the capacatance laundry markered on the caps. Good dude.
Call partsConnexion, Parts Express, Madisound, digikey, mouser... blah blah blah and ask about the teflon or a teflon mix you are looking for. Read up on Paper in Oil.. Silver in Oil, Copper in oil... All good stuff.
I've got a Bob Latino ST120 tube amp and I run some older .22uF Russian Paper in Oil caps he sells. He measures and sends a balanced pair with the capacatance laundry markered on the caps. Good dude.
Call partsConnexion, Parts Express, Madisound, digikey, mouser... blah blah blah and ask about the teflon or a teflon mix you are looking for. Read up on Paper in Oil.. Silver in Oil, Copper in oil... All good stuff.
What guage wire do people use for signal path wire?
I made my own RCA and Balanced XLR cables out of 20 ga dead soft .999% pure silver jewlery silver from RIO Grande. Works great. I just got heat shrink on the wire and did the wires up and it was easy... Thinking I'll just use the same wire on the signal path wire in and out of the PCB. Not long runs and it should only cost me 15 bucks for 7-8 feet of the wire.
.999% pure silver wire... The $$ insanity continues
I made my own RCA and Balanced XLR cables out of 20 ga dead soft .999% pure silver jewlery silver from RIO Grande. Works great. I just got heat shrink on the wire and did the wires up and it was easy... Thinking I'll just use the same wire on the signal path wire in and out of the PCB. Not long runs and it should only cost me 15 bucks for 7-8 feet of the wire.
.999% pure silver wire... The $$ insanity continues
I also have a Bob Latino kit. I splurged and bought the M125 monoblock in kit form. It is a very nice setup. WAAAAY too much power for my needs. I am about to sell them because of this reason. My F5 puts the Latino monoblocks to shame. So much more clarity.. I am using the same caps that you speak of (Russian) in those amps.
I believe i have settled on it and will purchase the same caps you bought. They are about what i want to spend and i read a few user reviews of them. They are very highly regarded. May have to wait until my tax return comes (any day now hopefully)..
As i said earlier, Salas suggested a teflon type cap due to the fact that I am going to be using a high quality attenuator. I am a bit unclear on this. Was a teflon mix suggested just simply due to it being high quality material/construction or does teflon mix have some quality that compliments a nice attenuator??
I believe i have settled on it and will purchase the same caps you bought. They are about what i want to spend and i read a few user reviews of them. They are very highly regarded. May have to wait until my tax return comes (any day now hopefully)..
As i said earlier, Salas suggested a teflon type cap due to the fact that I am going to be using a high quality attenuator. I am a bit unclear on this. Was a teflon mix suggested just simply due to it being high quality material/construction or does teflon mix have some quality that compliments a nice attenuator??
I have read on a few occasions that the benefits of using silver hookup wire are only optimized if silver is used throughout the system (hookup wire=>silver RCA jack=>silver RCA cable, etc etc...)
In your case, you already have silver interconnects so i would go for it. I used Kimber TCX (copper) in my F5 and it seems to be of high enough quality for me. I think i will stick with that.
Do you have a link to the silver strand you bought from RIO? That seems like a really great deal..
Check post 2788 for the RIO link. Some day I'll build some solid state amps or a F5... Like all you don't leave well enough alone and sit pat with what ya got.
Kimber is all good. What I did was a DIY knock off
Link: DIY Silver RCA Interconnect Cables
I have about 2 feet of the silver left over... So I'll just get about 6 feet more.
Kimber is all good. What I did was a DIY knock off
Link: DIY Silver RCA Interconnect Cables
I have about 2 feet of the silver left over... So I'll just get about 6 feet more.
A note about Jensen PIO and in oil Mundorf ranges. They don't like excessive heat, it shortens their useful lives. Their oils activate in heat. Jensens are a well known replacement in a few years in BAT tube equipment for instance. Excellent tone caps nonetheless. With big sinks and moderate currents they won't give a toss in a DCB1 though. But if about to go intense hot rod see to measure not higher than 60C on such caps surface. A K-Type thermocouple that comes with many DMMs is a sure way to know. Infrared laser spot cheap thermometer guns make do also but watch for shinning non black body error with them since they have a fixed coefficient. A black tape on a shinny surface of interest will inspire confidence. You should remove it after testing. Best of luck with your elevated parts spending DCB1 builds. After so many years of overwhelming positive feedback from hundreds of builders it seems its not that crazy an idea to splash out a bit. Although I am always on the conservative side about parts cost I can not beat the communal experience. Can I?
Salas, did you suggest a teflon based bypass cap to me because teflon itself has qualities that compliment a high quality attenuator? Or is it just a suggestion on an upgrade and the material does not matter. So do the bypass caps in this circuit have a very close complimentary relationship with the attenuator (volume control).A note about Jensen PIO and in oil Mundorf ranges. They don't like excessive heat, it shortens their useful lives. Their oils activate in heat. Jensens are a well known replacement in a few years in BAT tube equipment for instance. Excellent tone caps nonetheless. With big sinks and moderate currents they won't give a toss in a DCB1 though. But if about to go intense hot rod see to measure not higher than 60C on such caps surface. A K-Type thermocouple that comes with many DMMs is a sure way to know. Infrared laser spot cheap thermometer guns make do also but watch for shinning non black body error with them since they have a fixed coefficient. A black tape on a shinny surface of interest will inspire confidence. You should remove it after testing. Best of luck with your elevated parts spending DCB1 builds. After so many years of overwhelming positive feedback from hundreds of builders it seems its not that crazy an idea to splash out a bit. Although I am always on the conservative side about parts cost I can not beat the communal experience. Can I?
Thanks
10R is first level hot rod. For many people a sweet spot with a very manageable dissipation. In biggish box bottom plate power semis mounting or with oversized heatsinks for future 1A+ experiments the 160-200mA level that the 10R yields is like it never happened. Feels cold. Only the resistor itself feels heated up appreciably.