Build your own 2x12" TH (The Kraken 212 TH)

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I'm looking to take the plunge with the 1x12 Kraken with the JBL as directed, And just today picked up a retired from a movie theater QSC MX 1500a amp. I know it's way more amp than I need for this subwoofer, but there is always the future. I was planning on putting a miniDSP on the system. I thought to install it in the open accessory bay, only to find my bay isn't open. I find the QSC FS-1 Subwoofer filter in it. It's currently set to 100hz low pass and 32hz high pass.
Filter type:
second-order butterworth, Q=0.707
(LPF and unboosted subsonic filter)
second-order, +6 dB boost, Q=2
(boosted subsonic filter)

Is this a good starting point without a miniDSP?

Is there another frequency I should start with
hz ohm
20 82K Factory set for RN3
25 68K
32 56K
35 47K
40 39K
50 33K
63 27K
80 20K
100 18K
135 12K
160 10K
200 8.2K
250 6.8K Factory set for RN4

should I still use the miniDSP?
should I consider the dual voice coil version of this speaker instead of the single?

thanks,
 
I hope I don't get kicked off the forums for not being a good searcher, but here goes:

Can anyone explain to me how having two speakers in the box effects the measurements?

In other words, which speaker do I measure from? Or does it completely change everything?

EDIT: To clarify, I'm talking about measuring the segment lengths as per Hornresp. Also, using the push-pull arrangement.
 
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I'm looking to take the plunge with the 1x12 Kraken with the JBL as directed, And just today picked up a retired from a movie theater QSC MX 1500a amp. I know it's way more amp than I need for this subwoofer, but there is always the future. I was planning on putting a miniDSP on the system. I thought to install it in the open accessory bay, only to find my bay isn't open. I find the QSC FS-1 Subwoofer filter in it. It's currently set to 100hz low pass and 32hz high pass.
Filter type:
second-order butterworth, Q=0.707
(LPF and unboosted subsonic filter)
second-order, +6 dB boost, Q=2
(boosted subsonic filter)

Is this a good starting point without a miniDSP?

Is there another frequency I should start with
hz ohm
20 82K Factory set for RN3
25 68K
32 56K
35 47K
40 39K
50 33K
63 27K
80 20K
100 18K
135 12K
160 10K
200 8.2K
250 6.8K Factory set for RN4

should I still use the miniDSP?
should I consider the dual voice coil version of this speaker instead of the single?

thanks,
i found a post a few pages back saying 18hz hpf
so you could do 20 hz or 16 hz if you buy a rn of 100k
 
Is this what you guys are looking for?
 

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I would add an access panel on the low pressure, final fold of the horn side.

Don't put a panel on the high pressure side! Just use bolts and make them studs (like on a car wheel) for the speakers to bolt to. Not too difficult and with the
panel on the low pressure side, it will be much easier to keep the seal. If it leaks on the low pressure side, it will sound weird. If it leaks on the high pressure side, it can cause the driver to loose pressure and exceed Xmax. :eek:
 
Sorry for double Post, i am not familier with forums.
I read the thread and now i know what i want to build. I will build the kraken 112.
I want to build as cheap as possible. Therefore some questions.

The Infinity 1260w looks very similar to the jbl gto 1214, but is 40€ cheaper. Can I use the Infinity?
http://www.jbl.com/resources/Brands...uments/en-US/BoxesandParameters/GTO1214TD.pdf
http://manuals.harman.com/INF/CAR/Boxes%20and%20Parameters/1260W_final.pdf

Is it possible to use thiner plywood than 19mm or mdf 19mm?

What is the best glue for this build, availible in Europe?
 
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Status
This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.