Salas hotrodded blue DCB1 build

dtes,
how do you measure the internal temperature of a transformer?
How do you know if your duty overheats the transformer?
What does the transformer manufacturer tell you about drawing AC current from the transformer?
What does the transformer manufacturer tell you about drawing DC current from the transformer?
It appears you are completely ignoring what the manufacturer tells you about his own product.
 
how do you measure the internal temperature of a transformer?
with a help of infra-red gun it shows about 50-55c on the surface in non ventilated enclosure.

How do you know if your duty overheats the transformer?
Don't know that actually. The set of IC + Salas reg that I'm feeding requires about 80% of current that is written on the transformer.

What does the transformer manufacturer tell you about drawing AC current from the transformer?
What does the transformer manufacturer tell you about drawing DC current from the transformer?

well..not much info I found.

It appears you are completely ignoring what the manufacturer tells you about his own product.

not on purpose, simply learning on practise from experts' advices and info in the thread, hate books :)

Anyway, I've got your point regarding toroid!
Cheers
 
and the internal temperature is?

max continuous AC current = VA / Vac when feeding a resistor.
Max continuous DC current = VA / Vac / 1.414 * de-rating factor when feeding a capacitor input filter through a bridge rectifier.
The manufacturer will tell you the de=rating factor for that transformer. Expect it to be ~0.7
This results in a max continuous DC current of ~ half the max AC current.

You must check the manufacturer's data on how to use their product.
 
and the internal temperature is?

max continuous AC current = VA / Vac when feeding a resistor.
Max continuous DC current = VA / Vac / 1.414 * de-rating factor when feeding a capacitor input filter through a bridge rectifier.
The manufacturer will tell you the de=rating factor for that transformer. Expect it to be ~0.7
This results in a max continuous DC current of ~ half the max AC current.

You must check the manufacturer's data on how to use their product.

Great... my 80 VA transformer is too small for a hot-rod.
 
... my 80 VA transformer is too small for a hot-rod.
That is not what post2157 said.
That leaves you with the 80VA 15+15Vac. The maximum continuous output current is ~ 1.3Adc
You will be running the transformer at it's full maximum rating continuously if you draw 1.3Adc from the rectifiers.
1.3Adc is 65times the current consumption of the buffer circuit.
That means you would have 64/65ths of the current throughput of the Salas Reg for "hot-rodding".
Whereas a 80mA DCB1 would have only 3/4 of the throughput as regulator overhead.
That is a mighty big leap into "hot-rodding" territory. Particularly when one considers that 200mA and 600mA are both "hot-rodding" options.
 
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Let us know, I hope the sinking is enough for 1A yes? 1A means 20W dissipation per rail constantly for DCB1 usual voltages across the power semis.

Ended up replacing all fets with new and spares - 240s and 9140s. This time with lots of arctic silver on fets/pads/chassis contact. Now I have a tight -10.2 and 10v. With 1.5R instead of 1R I am pulling 866mA and 1A :D. But I have a PC fan on the enclosure (Antek 12in*12*2) so we'll see how it goes. An infrared thermometer is on the way so I can properly gauge temps. Not sure what happened before, must have shorted something?
 
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1A is more refined with increased three dimensional qualities. Not huge but noticeable. I also swapped out Muse KW 100ufs for Silmic IIs and the 470r metals for carbon comp. Not sure which is responsible but delivery is smoother - there was a slight etchiness before, not bad per se but board sounds different now.

Heat dissipation is MUCH better; the chassis is barely warm by the fets at shutdown.:cloud9:
 
Ok, I've been using 100R with dcb1 more or less directly to the amp with only a few inches of wire. I am curious because with this current build and the previous I have found the lower I go the more dynamic, open, and transparent the sound (previous amp had 7kinput imp, current amp 16k)...
 
A lower value of gate stopper allows the FET to operate faster. The filter created by the gate stopper and the internal capacitance of the FET moves to a higher frequency.

You can go as low as you like with the gate stopper value. The limit will be when instability sets in.
You will need to test the circuit thoroughly with all manner of interference and fast changing demands to ensure that stability is good. The lower the gate stopper value the more thorough your testing regime must be.

Or just play safe and use the recommended value or half the recommended value if you like to take chances.

But listening and hearing extra detail may be the sign/symptom that the PSU has already reached the instability operating area and the non smooth output is affecting the amplifier and giving the "sound effect" of extra detail.
you really need to test the PSU properly if you reduce the gate stopper value.