0.5mm or 0.6mm diameter solid core is good enough for 90% of your internal wiring.
Use mains grade double insulated wiring for the mains voltage wiring.
Use speaker type wiring for the speaker output to speaker terminal wiring. This could be 1.5mm² or 2.5mm² stranded, or solid core, from mains cable, or specific speaker cable.
Use mains grade double insulated wiring for the mains voltage wiring.
Use speaker type wiring for the speaker output to speaker terminal wiring. This could be 1.5mm² or 2.5mm² stranded, or solid core, from mains cable, or specific speaker cable.
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OK the PSUs are ready for the transformers.
I finally dropped the idea to solder extra caps on the bottom of the pcbs. Once I start working on the alephs I might try some additional cap banks just to get the extra capacitance thing out of my system
I used 1mm solid core mains grade wire for the jumpers from the rectifiers to the filter part.
Again small comment on the PSU boards from the store. My 3mm chisel tip on my Ersa station @450Cs had difficult time soldering the caps on the huge plains on the center. A bigger tip might helped move heat faster and made things easier.
For now, I have 8x22uKF per channel for a full dual mono configuration (I hope to get the transformers within the week).
I have also added isolation pads between the diodes and their heatsinks and finalized their height.
I am too tired to do any testing now. But tomorrow I m thinking of making tests with the light bulb tester and some 12V @125VA that I have around, just to make sure that everything is working ok. Oh and I really have to tidy some things up on my bench
I finally dropped the idea to solder extra caps on the bottom of the pcbs. Once I start working on the alephs I might try some additional cap banks just to get the extra capacitance thing out of my system
I used 1mm solid core mains grade wire for the jumpers from the rectifiers to the filter part.
Again small comment on the PSU boards from the store. My 3mm chisel tip on my Ersa station @450Cs had difficult time soldering the caps on the huge plains on the center. A bigger tip might helped move heat faster and made things easier.
For now, I have 8x22uKF per channel for a full dual mono configuration (I hope to get the transformers within the week).
I have also added isolation pads between the diodes and their heatsinks and finalized their height.
I am too tired to do any testing now. But tomorrow I m thinking of making tests with the light bulb tester and some 12V @125VA that I have around, just to make sure that everything is working ok. Oh and I really have to tidy some things up on my bench
Attachments
I was jealous to see 1+2s big sinks, so decided to finally order some myself.
Got the modushop ones (4 of them for 2 channels)
[FONT=Arial,Helvetica][SIZE=-1]3PD04200 Profile 200 X 40 H 165[/SIZE][/FONT]
modushop.biz
Got the modushop ones (4 of them for 2 channels)
[FONT=Arial,Helvetica][SIZE=-1]3PD04200 Profile 200 X 40 H 165[/SIZE][/FONT]
modushop.biz
Got them from Mouser. They are some weird patent from Ohmite. Instead of a screw they use a clip. I really do not see a benefit in it (it s rather a problem since if like me you want the sinks a bit higher from the board, they do not hold the diode so firmly), but they were the only ones that had enough dissipation ability and fitted the tight store psu boards.
Here is the link if you are interested
WA-T247-101E Ohmite | Mouser
To be honest, the only reason I got them was that I want to have a solid wood bottom on the amplifier. Otherwise I would snap the rectifier parts off the boards and use the aluminium bottom of the chassis as heatsink for them.
They do look cool though
Here is the link if you are interested
WA-T247-101E Ohmite | Mouser
To be honest, the only reason I got them was that I want to have a solid wood bottom on the amplifier. Otherwise I would snap the rectifier parts off the boards and use the aluminium bottom of the chassis as heatsink for them.
They do look cool though
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Why not?the way the diodes is set up, it is not possible to screw them in place
the sinks are tapped.
Yes, always fix the devices mechanically and finally before soldering the leadouts.
And use untapped sinks. Or drill them out.
Again, the main disadvantage of the these clips vs screws is their smallish mechanical strength. You can relatively easily move the heatsink around. That s why I added pads on them to be sure that nothing funny will happen. The anodized aluminium sink part is also not conductive, but better to be safe than sorry.
The tight space is not such a problem since the diode legs can be carefully bent a bit so that you can screw the sinks and then bent them back up straight. Better to do that before soldering the caps though...
Pre-attaching them is not such a big deal in this case, since they are one per diode, so you do not have to align many parts together before soldering them. You can just screw them whenever you want.
The tight space is not such a problem since the diode legs can be carefully bent a bit so that you can screw the sinks and then bent them back up straight. Better to do that before soldering the caps though...
Pre-attaching them is not such a big deal in this case, since they are one per diode, so you do not have to align many parts together before soldering them. You can just screw them whenever you want.
I would love some input on my chassis design.
I am thinking of using a wood bottom (~40mm thick) and same front and back.
Bottom will be 40x40cm (plus heatsinks on the sides) and height 16,5cm.
Top cover will be 1cm thick glass.
Sides will be 4 modushop heatsinks.
I will also add some ventilation slots on both the bottom wood and the glass. and maybe even raise the glass 1cm to allow some breathing.
I am thinking of using a wood bottom (~40mm thick) and same front and back.
Bottom will be 40x40cm (plus heatsinks on the sides) and height 16,5cm.
Top cover will be 1cm thick glass.
Sides will be 4 modushop heatsinks.
I will also add some ventilation slots on both the bottom wood and the glass. and maybe even raise the glass 1cm to allow some breathing.
I hope this isn't too off topic, but I'm beginning to amass the parts for this beautiful amp and, well, I don't have the knowledge to choose replacement transistors. This thread and the others like it are really valuable to me (this is my first real project - except for a follow the directions kit) because I can see how others have done things and your pictures and notes make it seem so much more possible. I Really appreciated the parts list at the beginning of this thread (dimkasta, I assume that those parts you ordered lots of are just to have plenty of extras for general purpose.)
Also how do you like your cap arangement on p. 9? I'm planning on using 1 PSU and filing it pretty much as you did (2x4 x22,000uF). Anyone have have any thoughs on that note?
So I'm looking for the six chips and where to buy them (mouser?). (should I double or more the order so if I screw up ...)
All advice is GREATLY appreciated and please keep it simple your talking to a newbie.
Thanks in advance,
George
Also how do you like your cap arangement on p. 9? I'm planning on using 1 PSU and filing it pretty much as you did (2x4 x22,000uF). Anyone have have any thoughs on that note?
So I'm looking for the six chips and where to buy them (mouser?). (should I double or more the order so if I screw up ...)
All advice is GREATLY appreciated and please keep it simple your talking to a newbie.
Thanks in advance,
George
Well the list is kind of a mess right now. It includes many parts that I ended up not ordering, but keep in there for refference as I might use them at some point.
And yes I usually order more than required to care for accidents or future projects (It ends up cheaper in the long run this way).
About the transistors, send a pm to h_a (Hannes). He can prepare a kit of matched transistors for you. He can also explain some stuff on their use.
Since you (like me) do not have much experience in this, I would suggest sticking as close to F5 manual as possible. Of course more capacitance in the PSU is always nice, and the 2x4x22KuF is a nice upgrade without creating problems with excess inrush currents etc.
And yes I usually order more than required to care for accidents or future projects (It ends up cheaper in the long run this way).
About the transistors, send a pm to h_a (Hannes). He can prepare a kit of matched transistors for you. He can also explain some stuff on their use.
Since you (like me) do not have much experience in this, I would suggest sticking as close to F5 manual as possible. Of course more capacitance in the PSU is always nice, and the 2x4x22KuF is a nice upgrade without creating problems with excess inrush currents etc.
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Hi,
Is a thread going for F5c from the store ,I have read Nelson's manual and was going to raise the ps to 50v ....but since reading,looks like that's going to be 32v instead,and will 200x40x165 heat sinks be enough or get bigger ones?
Got the F5c built except a few parts so any error's before the switch gets thrown,where does R116,115 go?No place on board and If in the sch, I'm going BLIND,lol
Thanks alot!
NS
Is a thread going for F5c from the store ,I have read Nelson's manual and was going to raise the ps to 50v ....but since reading,looks like that's going to be 32v instead,and will 200x40x165 heat sinks be enough or get bigger ones?
Got the F5c built except a few parts so any error's before the switch gets thrown,where does R116,115 go?No place on board and If in the sch, I'm going BLIND,lol
Thanks alot!
NS
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