Just opened one of my KSN1005A Tweeters which and now have another question about the whole sealing-of-the-piezo's part:
Do i just put some of the acrylic sealer where the arrow points and, before it hardens, screw it back together?
(Yes, i'm sure this is an obvious question, but i really doesn't feel like ruining the tweeters when we're starting with the building tomorrow..)
Do i just put some of the acrylic sealer where the arrow points and, before it hardens, screw it back together?
(Yes, i'm sure this is an obvious question, but i really doesn't feel like ruining the tweeters when we're starting with the building tomorrow..)
No. On the outer rim of the horn part. And it's not acrylic sealant there. It's plastic superglue preferably two-component.
If you feel really adventurous you can file the slots too but I really don't recommend trying it unless you've had practice on a few replicas first.
If you feel really adventurous you can file the slots too but I really don't recommend trying it unless you've had practice on a few replicas first.
Attachments
Something you guys might find interesting: Solar Panel - 10W - SparkFun Electronics
10W solar panel, dimensions are 14.125" x 11.5", the narrow dimension being slightly under the width of the Boominator. Two of them should fit on top of the unit, wire them in series and you're good to go.
Sparkfun is American, but they've got a few resellers around the world.
10W solar panel, dimensions are 14.125" x 11.5", the narrow dimension being slightly under the width of the Boominator. Two of them should fit on top of the unit, wire them in series and you're good to go.
Sparkfun is American, but they've got a few resellers around the world.
HI! Believe it or not but I have read every single comment on the past 220 pages now, took me a while but well worth it! Alot of good information in this thread!
I was hoping to find some answers even though I am not building a boominator I am however building a boombox.
I have a 12L enclosure, which makes it 6L for each speaker in stereo. The purpose of the boombox is to take it with me over to friends apartments for small partys. So by having very sensitive speakers is not the main goal, but to get something that sounds very audiophile at the same time as I am getting enough low bass and loudness. I have found 2 woofers that fullfill these requirements, but I CANNOT decide which one to buy! PLEASE let me know what you guys think I should go with. Sealed Enclosure it is.
Monacor SPH-176 VS Monacor SPH-170
Sensitivity: 90dB (1W/1m)
Qts: 0.37 | 0.44
Fs: 39Hz | 38Hz
Vas: 27L | 37L
Xmax: 5.5mm | 3.0mm
BxL: 7.7Tm | 5.9Tm
Moving mass: 14g | 12.5g
Sd: 140cm2 | 137cm2
Vb: 5L (Calculating out 1+1L cus of electronic stuff + magnets.)
Qtc: 0.93 | 1.27
F3: 79.8Hz | 79.4Hz
F10: 53.0Hz | 56.7Hz
Fb: 98.0Hz | 109.6Hz
Monacor SPH-176:
Monacor SPH-170:
I was hoping to find some answers even though I am not building a boominator I am however building a boombox.
I have a 12L enclosure, which makes it 6L for each speaker in stereo. The purpose of the boombox is to take it with me over to friends apartments for small partys. So by having very sensitive speakers is not the main goal, but to get something that sounds very audiophile at the same time as I am getting enough low bass and loudness. I have found 2 woofers that fullfill these requirements, but I CANNOT decide which one to buy! PLEASE let me know what you guys think I should go with. Sealed Enclosure it is.
Monacor SPH-176 VS Monacor SPH-170
Sensitivity: 90dB (1W/1m)
Qts: 0.37 | 0.44
Fs: 39Hz | 38Hz
Vas: 27L | 37L
Xmax: 5.5mm | 3.0mm
BxL: 7.7Tm | 5.9Tm
Moving mass: 14g | 12.5g
Sd: 140cm2 | 137cm2
Vb: 5L (Calculating out 1+1L cus of electronic stuff + magnets.)
Qtc: 0.93 | 1.27
F3: 79.8Hz | 79.4Hz
F10: 53.0Hz | 56.7Hz
Fb: 98.0Hz | 109.6Hz
Monacor SPH-176:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Monacor SPH-170:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
So, something horrible has happened. I have gotten the idea of "upgrading" the Boominator with a dedicated sub solution.. and I figured that I would be needing some kind of low-pass RC filter to filter higher frequencies. The problem is that I have no idea of how to calculate what components I would be needing for this filter, as it is my first time ever making one. That is also why I'd prefer it to be as simple as possible, i.e a RC filter.
I have attached an idea of how I imagined the sub solution would turn out to be. I am wondering if I should get 2 or 4 speakers for the subwoofer. I was thinking of using 12" speakers in 8 ohm, parallel connect them and get them into 4 ohm. This case with subwoofers would also be running on its own seperate TA2020 amplifier.
This brings me back to my question - where can I find some sort of tutorial on about how to create such a filter and calculate the values of the components needed?
Thanks in advance, this will turn out to be an interesting project for a beginner such as me.
I have attached an idea of how I imagined the sub solution would turn out to be. I am wondering if I should get 2 or 4 speakers for the subwoofer. I was thinking of using 12" speakers in 8 ohm, parallel connect them and get them into 4 ohm. This case with subwoofers would also be running on its own seperate TA2020 amplifier.
This brings me back to my question - where can I find some sort of tutorial on about how to create such a filter and calculate the values of the components needed?
Thanks in advance, this will turn out to be an interesting project for a beginner such as me.
Attachments
Well, I was thinking of using 4 HP-12W's, which by the spec sheet have 97 SPL. These will be fed with 20W RMS, and paralled into 4 ohm. Are you sure this won't be sufficient? I have considered getting a amp9b, and going into 24v, but this requires alot of battery capacity, and so far I do not believe my budget can afford that.
Where should I put my low-pass filter? 120 Hz? I have no idea where it should start cutting frequencies, so do you have place where I can gather information that enables me to calculate this? And should I get a high-pass filter for the Boominator, that in this case will be playing mid-range and the high frequencies, or just let it play the lower frequencies aswell?
So many questions
Sorry!I bought a grill to my speakers, theese: http://www.ljudia.se/images/products/size-09/padding-00/hogtalargaller-hifi-10-p1763.jpg , but I dont't know how to install them, there is no holes. I probably sound stupid, but I can't solve it. Please help me!
Are you building a boominator?
Either glue them directly on the speaker. There should be some foam around the speaker that matches with the grill. Glue sticks easily there.
Or else you could try something like this:
https://elextra.dk/main.aspx?page=article&artno=H19321
@ Wubbaz
There's a reason why Saturnus didn't choose those HP-12W speakers and I think the reason lies in the speaker box design.
I tried to calculate a suitable vented box for the driver and if those calculations are right, you'll get a 198 litre box, which is way bigger than the box for the HP-10W. Sure there's some extra sensitivity but speaker parametres are different and makes you want to use a different enclosure.
Unless you want a really huuuge box, you might want to reconsider
There's a reason why Saturnus didn't choose those HP-12W speakers and I think the reason lies in the speaker box design.
I tried to calculate a suitable vented box for the driver and if those calculations are right, you'll get a 198 litre box, which is way bigger than the box for the HP-10W. Sure there's some extra sensitivity but speaker parametres are different and makes you want to use a different enclosure.
Unless you want a really huuuge box, you might want to reconsider
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@ Wubbaz
There's a reason why Saturnus didn't choose those HP-12W speakers and I think the reason lies in the speaker box design.
I tried to calculate a suitable vented box for the driver and if those calculations are right, you'll get a 198 litre box, which is way bigger than the box for the HP-10W. Sure there's some extra sensitivity but speaker parametres are different and makes you want to use a different enclosure.
Unless you want a really huuuge box, you might want to reconsider
I think I read somewhere that the HP-12W's can be used in enclosures with about 100 liters volume, and the for example Coffin Camp used 4 HP-12W's in a cabinet with about 420 liters.. I could be wrong though. That's mainly why I thought that using them as a sub for my Boominator could work. I have been told that filtering my subs at 150 Hz would be optimal.. do you agree with this?
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How do you know which one is the plus and minus on a dc-plug, like this on when you have taken away the black part: http://www.molectric.com/images/dcplugghane.jpg
There is one small part and a big one. Is the big one minus?
There is one small part and a big one. Is the big one minus?
The amp 6 is using about 0,3A ..
Do anyone know how much this is using pr. hour? TOPPING TP22 TP-22 & TK2050 T-AMP 2X30W & Tripath Class | eBay
Do anyone know how much this is using pr. hour? TOPPING TP22 TP-22 & TK2050 T-AMP 2X30W & Tripath Class | eBay
Just had a bunch of stuff come in the mail, from Q Components here in Canada. I thought about building a smaller Boominator using Eminence Beta-8A's but decided to go full size instead.
GW1058's: The magnet on these things is HUGE - probably 7-8 inches across. I'll measure the full size/shape of these and put together a Sketchup model for it, and come up with a volume displacement as I'm thinking the extra size might throw off the speaker box calculations.
Goldwood GT-1001 tweeters, KSN-1001 clones. These were ridiculously cheap, less than $2/pop, and I certainly got what I paid for. The terminals on the back of them are melted into the plastic to hold them in place, one of them ended up coming to me with a terminal broken off embedded in the tweeter's box. The front mounting plate is also really thin, to the point of being flexible - and one of them ended up getting busted during shipping - no surprise since it's so thin. Can't recommend these. Think I might order some of the real deal and throw these out.
I also ordered four 4" ports (Goldwood PT-307), I'm doing 2 of these ports per side on the box instead of doing port handles.
GW1058's: The magnet on these things is HUGE - probably 7-8 inches across. I'll measure the full size/shape of these and put together a Sketchup model for it, and come up with a volume displacement as I'm thinking the extra size might throw off the speaker box calculations.
Goldwood GT-1001 tweeters, KSN-1001 clones. These were ridiculously cheap, less than $2/pop, and I certainly got what I paid for. The terminals on the back of them are melted into the plastic to hold them in place, one of them ended up coming to me with a terminal broken off embedded in the tweeter's box. The front mounting plate is also really thin, to the point of being flexible - and one of them ended up getting busted during shipping - no surprise since it's so thin. Can't recommend these. Think I might order some of the real deal and throw these out.
I also ordered four 4" ports (Goldwood PT-307), I'm doing 2 of these ports per side on the box instead of doing port handles.
Battery, charger wiring question
I've built a suitcase boom box with the Lepai tripath based 2020 amp, a 12V 8ah SLA battery, two goldwood 8 inch woofers and a goldwood horn tweeter/mid. It sounds pretty good!
My questions is, can I wire it up so the battery charges all the time when the charger is plugged in? My charger is a 1000ma charger, but I don't know if I can leave it plugged in all the time without frying the battery.
Also, can I play the amp while the battery is charging, or will that damage the amp?
I have a d/c 2.5mm jack with three terminals on the back, and I think one of them is a battery bypass terminal. Could I incorporate that somehow to fix my problem? Will the amp run off this 1000ma charger as well?
I've built a suitcase boom box with the Lepai tripath based 2020 amp, a 12V 8ah SLA battery, two goldwood 8 inch woofers and a goldwood horn tweeter/mid. It sounds pretty good!
My questions is, can I wire it up so the battery charges all the time when the charger is plugged in? My charger is a 1000ma charger, but I don't know if I can leave it plugged in all the time without frying the battery.
Also, can I play the amp while the battery is charging, or will that damage the amp?
I have a d/c 2.5mm jack with three terminals on the back, and I think one of them is a battery bypass terminal. Could I incorporate that somehow to fix my problem? Will the amp run off this 1000ma charger as well?
It accounted for. The Goldwood G1058 is a direct drop in replacement.
Yeah, replicas are generally crap. The Monacor MPT-001 is a decent quality replica though so if you're on a very tight budget these can be used. But I'll reiterate that the original Motorolas are much better.
You'll have to notice that you'll probably need a steeper sub-cut filter than just adjusting the input cap to avoid excessive cone excursions if you don't use the intended port/handle design. The Boominator is intentionally designed to produce too high port air velocities at higher excursions because it limits air movement, and thereby helps protects against excessive excursions.
It hard to put an exact measure on the effect but from observations on actual compared to calculated cone excursions, I'd estimate it equal to adding at least another 1st order sub cut and probably more.
I also find it curious that you chose a 4" port. From an aesthetic point of view a 3" port would match the tweeter cut-out.
Actually the amp6 (or any other TA2020, TA2021 or TA2024) uses about 360mA
The calculation is pretty simple, it just assumes an average music level at -10dB (-9dB dynamic gaussian signal normalized to -1dB). So it's just V^2/(Z*10) to have the power consumption of both channels at full music power output. That's 300mA. To that you add the quiescent current consumption which for the TA2020/2021/2024 is 60mA, so 360mA total (assuming the amp has no LED to indicate power, otherwise add 20mA).
For the above amp, assuming the same battery, the output will be the same since the supply voltage is the same so the load consumption is also the same at 300mA but quiescent for the TP2050 chipset is 185mA plus the LEDs beside the potentiometer which uses 40mA so 525mA total.
So about 50% more consumption at the same maximum power output. However, the interesting thing is that the idle consumption is totally different; amp6 in idle uses 60mA, the above amp uses 225mA in idle. Almost 4 times as much.
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