Trying my hand at pics again...
Been playing the Thorens tonight; never ever thought vinyl could sound so good, and especially on a piece of equipment the is older than me (1957 vs 1963)!!!
pictures added! 
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Very cool pictures, Skylounger.. I note the use of the mandatory tracking force enhancement device on your headshell.. I've had to do this in a couple of instances with my Schick arm with lighter headshell/cartridge combos..
Mine is a very late II and I've not yet had anything that performs better.. The effort I put into mine has been well rewarded..
Would you like me to embed the pix in your post rather than linking them from an external site? (That way they will be here any time a member would like to see them regardless of what happens to the originals..)
I've had to do this in a couple of instances with my Schick arm with lighter headshell/cartridge combos.. Mine is a very late II and I've not yet had anything that performs better.. The effort I put into mine has been well rewarded..
Would you like me to embed the pix in your post rather than linking them from an external site? (That way they will be here any time a member would like to see them regardless of what happens to the originals..)
Check out the Audio Technica Universal Head Shell.. I'm using an AT-LH18/OCC (rather heavy) but there are a number of other lighter versions to choose from, one thing for sure is the commonly available light weight SME S2 head shell is not the best choice.. Yamamoto and AT make a variety of head shells that might be good choices.
I actually use the clutch a lot, I play records for 3 - 4 hours at a stint..
Same here... That tt sound sooooo good! I just can't stop...
Go right ahead... I can't seem to find the trick!
Really? what do you suggest? I wanted to keep it as stock as I could... I've added a 4.5g counterweight between the cart and headshell and it works fine for now!
I'm open to suggestions.
Go to advanced, click on manage attachments for future reference..
I'll go ahead and add local copies of your pix to your post..I highly recommend the AT line of head shells and perhaps a 12gm - 13 gm one would be about right..
Here's one: http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Audio-t...628?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1c1f0044ec (edit: replaced with link to more reasonably priced seller. I've done business with this one.)
Do weigh your whole head shell set up and make sure that any head shell you buy fits your mass requirements with the cartridge installed.
The AT LH series headshells are fantastic IMHO, and I prefer my 18gm AT-LH18 to my Orsonic with some cartridges..
One sort of annoying development since I installed the cast iron platter is that when I turn on the turntable the idler pulley now squeals briefly as the platter comes up to speed - which I will add occurs rather rapidly. (Much faster than on any of the old 124/I I have worked on including my 124/I which definitely do not have this particular problem.) The late motors based on my limited experience seem to develop significantly greater torque than the earlier motors depending on internal winding configuration in the motor in question.
Otherwise it works and sounds great.. Getting the clutch reset properly was a bit of a chore, but once done it too seems fine.
It seems like a new idler is in my future.
Otherwise it works and sounds great.. Getting the clutch reset properly was a bit of a chore, but once done it too seems fine.
It seems like a new idler is in my future.
Before I managed to work out all the kinks with the SME3012, I had ordered a Jelco SA750LB which I received today.
I have been playing the tt for a few days now and really like the sound of it with the SME.
Do you guys think the Jelco will be an improvement at all? If so, in what regards?
I have to admit that the classic looks of the 3012 really please me but the Jelco seems more sturdy and very well built...
Opinions?
I have been playing the tt for a few days now and really like the sound of it with the SME.
Do you guys think the Jelco will be an improvement at all? If so, in what regards?
I have to admit that the classic looks of the 3012 really please me but the Jelco seems more sturdy and very well built...
Opinions?
Probably play to somewhat different strengths.. I would try the jelco, you just need to get a second arm board for it. Exchanging arm boards is very quick, this is one of the strengths of the TD-124..
Running the 3012 without the bed plate grommets should result in significantly improved bass and better imaging.. Not subtle when I tried it.
The Jelco has significantly better bearings than the 3012 and I would expect it to out perform it on difficult material with the right cartridge.
Both incidentally are good arms, the 3012 has cachet that many arms don't due to its comparative rarity and age.
Thanks for your input Kevin!
My plan is, in fact, to make a second armboard for the Jelco, probably even a new one for the 3012.
As per your suggestion a while back, I didn't get new bedplate grommets when I sent the 3012 for rewiring at SME Tonearms, so it is mounted directly to the armboard and I am very pleased with the presentation and bass response so far. In fact, I have to ease up on the bass since I think my tt isn't properly positioned with regards to the speaker and I get some low freq feedback...
You are right about the cachet of the 3012 though... It a split decision in my house... Wife prefers the looks of Jelco, daughter SME (14 y/o)...
My plan is, in fact, to make a second armboard for the Jelco, probably even a new one for the 3012.
As per your suggestion a while back, I didn't get new bedplate grommets when I sent the 3012 for rewiring at SME Tonearms, so it is mounted directly to the armboard and I am very pleased with the presentation and bass response so far. In fact, I have to ease up on the bass since I think my tt isn't properly positioned with regards to the speaker and I get some low freq feedback...
You are right about the cachet of the 3012 though... It a split decision in my house... Wife prefers the looks of Jelco, daughter SME (14 y/o)...
I'd say you're very lucky to have both, apparently they are interested in what you are doing.. Obviously I meant your wife and daughter, although the arms are cool too.
I can't recommend a heavy, massive plinth enough for this table, and it will take care of your feedback issue as well.. Mine is in a custom slate plinth, any good local high end kitchen counter top fabricator should be able to make you what need for a lot less than the boutique sellers of same.. Night and day difference to my 124/II..
I really liked the 3012 Series II I restored for a friend but ultimately end up purchasing a Schick as the next logical step up and for only slightly more money..
I'd say you're very lucky to have both, apparently they are interested in what you are doing.. Obviously I meant your wife and daughter, although the arms are cool too.
I can't recommend a heavy, massive plinth enough for this table, and it will take care of your feedback issue as well.. Mine is in a custom slate plinth, any good local high end kitchen counter top fabricator should be able to make you what need for a lot less than the boutique sellers of same.. Night and day difference to my 124/II..
I definitely have to work on a better plinth as I think the only appeal this one has is the "vintage" look...
Do you have any idea how acrylic would compare to slate re mass? I was toying with this idea of a big translucent plinth...
I'm not a materials scientist, but with a mechanically noisy deck like the TD-124 I suspect something that is very massy and reasonably lossy would be the ticket. Acrylic plinths can be quite good, (I had one made which I subsequently gifted to a friend who made a killer table with it.) however it will be about as expensive and perhaps not as good as slate. Other options of course are more sophisticated CLD designs you can build, and there are a number of reputedly good plinths on eBay as well..My slate plinth weighs about 36kg..
E50 motor rebuilding kit
Hello
I bought a motor rebuilding kit from Mirko (ebay seller )
The guy who I let renovate the motor said that the bushings delivered with the kit doesn,t fit properly and the motor doesn,t come to proper speed even after running in. He now wants to replace them with (very expensive 225 euro ) Schopper bushings . Is there anybody who has the same expience with the bushings from mirko (or on the contrary : good experience )
Is there a workaround ? prolonge the running in time ?
thanks jeremy from the netherlands
Hello
I bought a motor rebuilding kit from Mirko (ebay seller )
The guy who I let renovate the motor said that the bushings delivered with the kit doesn,t fit properly and the motor doesn,t come to proper speed even after running in. He now wants to replace them with (very expensive 225 euro ) Schopper bushings . Is there anybody who has the same expience with the bushings from mirko (or on the contrary : good experience )
Is there a workaround ? prolonge the running in time ?
thanks jeremy from the netherlands
How has he made this determination? A cold motor will take several minutes to warm up sufficiently to run dead on speed. I have used these bushings in a number of motor rebuilds for others and have never had a problem - performance is very similar if not identical to that of original low hour bushings..(I did not purchase the bushings, that was done by one of the fellows whose table I overhauled.) Motor run in is typically 100hrs or more with new bushings. What weight oil did he use, and did he properly impregnate them with 20wt oil prior to installation?
I used bushings on mine purchased from jec965 on mine which seem to work quite well. (Now nearly a year in service.)
I'm assuming that when he says they don't fit properly that he means they are too tight? They should slide on easily, but with no discernible play and other than that I can't say - access to a dial gauge, calipers, and other measurement devices being necessary for a careful determination.. It is possible I suppose that a new batch of bushings could have excessively tight tolerances..
Hopefully User510 will weigh in with some additional thoughts. In the mean time check the analog depot TD-124 rebuild pages: http://www.theanalogdept.com/td124_dept.htm
Motor stuff here: http://homepage2.nifty.com/pantone/thorens/overhaul_1.htm
Hi
Thank you for your reply
The ebay seller is Sq385 , so NOT jec965 see :
E50 Motor Rebuilding Kit for Thorens TD-124 Turntable | eBay
I will post a picture of schoppers bushings and the ones the ones from mirko side by side so you can see the difference .
regards
Jeroen.
Thank you for your reply
The ebay seller is Sq385 , so NOT jec965 see :
E50 Motor Rebuilding Kit for Thorens TD-124 Turntable | eBay
I will post a picture of schoppers bushings and the ones the ones from mirko side by side so you can see the difference .
regards
Jeroen.
