MagnumOpus & The B1

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M

MagnumOpus

Member
Joined 2011
Can anyone help me find the right switches?

I have looked at these: controls_toggle_switch

but I don't quite grasp the difference. I get on-on and on-off but that's it.

It could also come from mouser or digikey, but I want one for the power, and two for line toggle. One of them for 2 inputs and one for 3. I'll get them both and decide later which to use...

Thank you! Couldn't have done this without help.:cool:

(The mains here is 230V btw)
 
6L6

6L6

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Joined 2010
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Switches -

Read this - Switch - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

There is a nice chart in the middle that explains the basic configurations. It's intended for mains wiring, but it is still very applicable.


Power needs a SPST (single pole, single throw) You can also use a SPDT and only make one connection.

Inputs need a DPDT (double pole, double throw) preferably in an ON-none-ON configuration.

If you want 3 inputs, you then need a DT3P (double pole, triple throw), ON-ON-ON and jumper the PCB as in my diagram above. Here is an example from Mouser M2044SS1W01-RO NKK Switches Toggle Switches

That manufacturer (NKK) has all the switches you would need. The datasheet is generic for the series, it's worth looking at; http://www.nkkswitches.com/pdf/MtogglesBushing.pdf



.
 
M

MagnumOpus

Member
Joined 2011
Ah, ok. I think I get it. Thanks. I have a power entry module, but I am thinking not to use it, since it would look kinda cool with a switch on each side of the volume knob :)

Looked at attenuators btw. How much do you figure the B1 is worth in volume pot/attenuator expences?

The TKD's seem good, the Nobels aswell, but £70 for a soundcontroll is quite steep. Also the Goldpoints seem quite impressive aswell.

I have also looked at the stepped attenuator from Twisted Pear, but seems like overkill...
 
AuroraB

AuroraB

Member
Joined 2001
You don't need a 3-pole switch for power- the ground connection doesn't need a switch.
I'd use the power entry module, as it is a very nice way to feed power into a cab- don't mind if it has an extra power switch....
Stepped attenuators etc. is up to choice - Noble have been the choice of pot's for years....

BTW- I take it you do know of www.elfa.se for components.... ?
 
M

MagnumOpus

Member
Joined 2011
Yes, what 6L6 said. Thinking of it, anyway. I'll get the stuff I need and decide when hooking up. Don't have any spares, AB, sorry. Let you know if I stumble upon some.

I'll use the power entry module in case of a standalone psu-box if I get the Lighter Note for volume, or in the power amp, or a chip amp or whatever :) To many options and way to many decicions to make in DIY :)

I can add a mundane update though. Having a dialogue with a woodworking company regarding the sidepanels of the enclosures.
I want flame-birch. Perhaps waxed and clearcoated. Think I'll look pretty decent with either black powder coated alu, or natural alu alike.
 
M

MagnumOpus

Member
Joined 2011
Started soldering the B1 tonight. The resistors I have ordered are quite different from the ones I thought I ordered. They are the right values, but really tiny and black. I expected them to be brown and just a wee bit bigger. Anyway...I got most everything for the board, but either digikey muck'd up or I did. I am one lousy resistor short. The R3 is missing. Guess I'll have to order one when I get stuff for the psu or the cmoy I am building...

BTW, does the shorter or the longer pin on the LED go to +? I have forgotten.....
 
C

CanAm Man

Member
Joined 2006
Really tiny and black? Sounds as though you got surface-mount technology (SMT) resistors rather than the more traditional components. Need to be careful that the SMTs have the same power handling capacity (wattage capacity) as the traditional ones called for the in the design.

That's a guess what you have (SMTs). Would be able to tell better, if you had posted a pic or two.
 
6L6

6L6

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Joined 2010
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He doesn't have SMT resistors, or he wouldn't be able to solder them to the board... Most likely they are the Dale 65 series (I think that's the number...)

On an LED, the Anode (+) is the long lead. The Cathode (-) is the shorter lead and the LED will have a flat spot on the plastic.

LED.gif
 
M

MagnumOpus

Member
Joined 2011
6L6 said:
He doesn't have SMT resistors, or he wouldn't be able to solder them to the board... Most likely they are the Dale 65 series (I think that's the number...)

On an LED, the Anode (+) is the long lead. The Cathode (-) is the shorter lead and the LED will have a flat spot on the plastic.

LED.gif
Click to expand...

I thought I ordered RN55 types...guess not...ah well. Knowing myself, I'll probably build another one using some fancy components just for fun and comparison after a while anyway :)

Thanks for the LED info :)
 
A

AndrewT

R.I.P.
Joined 2004
Magnum,
an easy way to remember the diode & LED.

The "bar" on the schematic is the -ve terminal.
The arrow points in the direction of current flow.
The painted line on a diode and the flat side of the round LED, both match up with that "bar" on the schematic.

If you want current to flow through the LED then the arrow pointing to the bar must be towards -ve. The other end is more +ve.

If you want to block current flow then the arrow points to +ve.

Can anyone give me an easy way to remember Anode and Cathode? I always have to look it up to see if I have it right this time.
 
R

Russellc

Member
Joined 2003
Paid Member
MagnumOpus said:
Ah, ok. I think I get it. Thanks. I have a power entry module, but I am thinking not to use it, since it would look kinda cool with a switch on each side of the volume knob :)

Looked at attenuators btw. How much do you figure the B1 is worth in volume pot/attenuator expences?

The TKD's seem good, the Nobels aswell, but £70 for a soundcontroll is quite steep. Also the Goldpoints seem quite impressive aswell.

I have also looked at the stepped attenuator from Twisted Pear, but seems like overkill...
Click to expand...
I used the same part Nelson does in the commercial unit, the PEC model. They were approximatley 10 USD each. I was suspicious, but Mr Pass's use of them gave confidence. I was greatly suprised at how good they sound! I figured it would be easy enough to later change to something else, but I havent seen the need.

Russellc
 
M

MagnumOpus

Member
Joined 2011
Russellc said:
I used the same part Nelson does in the commercial unit, the PEC model. They were approximatley 10 USD each. I was suspicious, but Mr Pass's use of them gave confidence. I was greatly suprised at how good they sound! I figured it would be easy enough to later change to something else, but I havent seen the need.

Russellc
Click to expand...

Sounds good. I might get a 25K TKD pot later on, but I don't think I'll be getting the PEC. I want one pot for stereo.
 
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