Now I got my almost needles 
. Had to make them a little narrower and they also are slightly taller. They do sound very nice so thanks Berndt! I can't believe how well the bass works! I'll send some pictures when I get them home as I made them with my uncle and they are at my parents now and I don't have camera with me.
-Ozz
. Had to make them a little narrower and they also are slightly taller. They do sound very nice so thanks Berndt! I can't believe how well the bass works! I'll send some pictures when I get them home as I made them with my uncle and they are at my parents now and I don't have camera with me.-Ozz
Hi knowledgeable speaker chaps,
referring back to the diagram on page 1, if I was unable to make the speakers as tall as detailed, but had t make them shorter, would retaining the width of the cabinet, but making it deeper maintain the characteristics of this design? Also would the internal part 'C' still slant out to the midpoint?
referring back to the diagram on page 1, if I was unable to make the speakers as tall as detailed, but had t make them shorter, would retaining the width of the cabinet, but making it deeper maintain the characteristics of this design? Also would the internal part 'C' still slant out to the midpoint?
Woodenhead, how much shorter are they? If they are 5-10% shorter, go ahead build it and have fun, be proud/delighted with what you made.
Make the top and bottom as on the drawing, the "missing part" is in the middle. That is what I should have done.
Or if you can maybe you could build a base "like a boot". Difficult to draw with MSPaint, but hope you understand how I am thinking.
As Mythbusters says "Failure Is Always an Option"
You will never learn if you don't have fun and trying.
\\Mårten
Make the top and bottom as on the drawing, the "missing part" is in the middle. That is what I should have done.
Or if you can maybe you could build a base "like a boot". Difficult to draw with MSPaint, but hope you understand how I am thinking.
As Mythbusters says "Failure Is Always an Option"
You will never learn if you don't have fun and trying.
\\Mårten
Attachments
Thanks for the concise and direct answer
I know nothing of speaker cabinet voodoo, so need to ask questions, along with reading and learning,
It has to do with sound wave length inherent in the transmission line speaker enclosure. I don't know enough to explain it, but there are plenty of websites out there that do a great job. I think the Needle is a 'tapered quarter-wave' design, but again, I defer to another more knowledgeable individual. Take a read at this site for starters.
As for the enclosure you suggested: build it with some cheap material first and don't worry too much if you have to chuck it. Have fun first, make it perfect second.
Hi MrMag2001 and tommy_o,
Thanks for the info and feedback.
I don't know how much shorter they would be, at the moment, as it's a maybe. I'd thought I'd throw the the question out there and see what gives. I now know I was wrong thinking it was a case of maintaining internal volume, and now have a good link to look at and learn from.
Cheers!
Thanks for the info and feedback.
I don't know how much shorter they would be, at the moment, as it's a maybe. I'd thought I'd throw the the question out there and see what gives. I now know I was wrong thinking it was a case of maintaining internal volume, and now have a good link to look at and learn from.
Cheers!
As far as I know - The Needle cabinet encompasses a transmission line. It's folded in two. If you shorten the transmission line, everything changes and you need to recalculate everything. Basically.
You might be able to get away with folding the transmission line in three or four, however ... That could shorten the cabinet without changing anything.
Conceivably! Possibly! (No guarantees
)Oh btw, try and have a look at the TABAQ transmission-line speaker that's been discussed in length in this forum. It's very similar in spirit to the Needle. It might be shorter, overall.
This is so true for me, as i do this for fun.
In my "workshop" you could find lots of rejected speakers boxes. But some come all the way into our living room. As my Needle's did..
\\Mårten
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Tried to do a 3d drawing in MS Paint, but this "foot" i think my next Needle will have, I know I alter the TL of the original Needle but it will be the last part of the line and with only 3-5 centimeters.
I like it, so I will build my next Needle with this "foot", they are going to be wedding gifts to my wife's sister and soon to be husband.
\\Mårten
I like it, so I will build my next Needle with this "foot", they are going to be wedding gifts to my wife's sister and soon to be husband.
\\Mårten
Attachments
If it needs to bee shorter, try the Brick, also by the same maker of the Needle.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/multi-way/47558-speaker-projects-tangband-w3-817s-needle-brick.html
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/multi-way/47558-speaker-projects-tangband-w3-817s-needle-brick.html
I built two of these and it was the biggest dissapointment of my speaker building life. All I had at the time was a 20$ hand plane. I used some beautifuls timbers double layered and sanded inside and out to perfection. It took me a month and ended up ruining my carpal tunnel on my one remaining good wrist. I have a plate in place of the other. They just dont go loud enough for me unless I lived in a toilet maybe. And they sound so thin notch filter or no notch filter. YMMV. Of course they will suit some but I feel compelled to warn peeps like me. I wish somebody had warned me. I was so disenchanted I never finished a speaker to that quality ever again. Well I never felt my finger tips again lol. I would much rather have any vintage $50 phillips dual cone in a small refex box scabbed from a opshop. With out a notch filter! Its not put me off tqwt though Iam considering a bib currently.
Hi Needle fans,
I’m also planning to build the needles using TB W3-881. My intention is to make some changes and would appreciate the help and opinion from the community. Idea is to make omnidirectional version of needles by moving the speaker to the top of the box and positioning round disk shaped diffuser above the speaker. Since speaker has moved I’ve made box 5 cm longer and made internal changes to retain similar relative position of the speaker. I would also like to use round 5 cm diameter went and I’m not sure how to convert the dimensions of the original vent to round one. I can post drawing and dimensions if anyone is keen to help. I think that changes are big enough that check using MJK spreadsheets would be beneficial. I don’t have access to the spreadsheets and not sure that will be able to use them correctly. Would anyone be kind to have quick check using recommended amount of stuffing and suggest improvements.
My apologies if this what I’m asking is not considered to be acceptable
I’m also planning to build the needles using TB W3-881. My intention is to make some changes and would appreciate the help and opinion from the community. Idea is to make omnidirectional version of needles by moving the speaker to the top of the box and positioning round disk shaped diffuser above the speaker. Since speaker has moved I’ve made box 5 cm longer and made internal changes to retain similar relative position of the speaker. I would also like to use round 5 cm diameter went and I’m not sure how to convert the dimensions of the original vent to round one. I can post drawing and dimensions if anyone is keen to help. I think that changes are big enough that check using MJK spreadsheets would be beneficial. I don’t have access to the spreadsheets and not sure that will be able to use them correctly. Would anyone be kind to have quick check using recommended amount of stuffing and suggest improvements.
My apologies if this what I’m asking is not considered to be acceptable
moving the unit to the top will not have a big impact on the functioning of the line, should be OK.
to convert a square port to a round one: just keep the area of the cross section the same (unit of measure: square inch). area of square port: height*width; area of circular port: pi*0.25*diameter*diameter. keep length the same
to convert a square port to a round one: just keep the area of the cross section the same (unit of measure: square inch). area of square port: height*width; area of circular port: pi*0.25*diameter*diameter. keep length the same
Thanks Henkjan
Having a problems with uploading the drawings. Regarding the vent, its internal diameter is 5 cm and area is 196.3 cm square. Specified vent is 2.5 X 10 cm which is 250 cm square. My vent has smaller area, so could please someone explain what is required to do to the length to compensate?
Regards
Request: TB 871 and 'Needle' simualted in 'Hornresp'
I believe I have read or skimmed through all the pages in this thread; I join all who expressed their gratitude to Bernt in particular and all contributors in general!
My request: I am hoping someone will have the time and be kind enough to
enter the T/S parameters of the TB871 and the appropriate dimensions and settings of the 'Needle' in Hornresp. and enclose/show picture of InPut Parameters Page in this thread.
Gratefully, arnakke
I believe I have read or skimmed through all the pages in this thread; I join all who expressed their gratitude to Bernt in particular and all contributors in general!
My request: I am hoping someone will have the time and be kind enough to
enter the T/S parameters of the TB871 and the appropriate dimensions and settings of the 'Needle' in Hornresp. and enclose/show picture of InPut Parameters Page in this thread.
Gratefully, arnakke