Yes Looks to me like it was completely tidy and some stuff was carefully placed around the bench to "simulate" a mess
I just have the feeling it looks contrived...
Tony.
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wow you guys are real ball busters.
I LIKE THIS PLACE!
The order for UPOCC wire cost me 5K alone. Look up Neotech sales in Cali and get a quote if you like. The Co. places orders directly from Japan.
Audiodharma cooker was 800 ish
Manley skipjack was 600 (used)
Connectors, various other items complete the rest.
Purty simple mathematics you see.
ONWARD!
I LIKE THIS PLACE!
The order for UPOCC wire cost me 5K alone. Look up Neotech sales in Cali and get a quote if you like. The Co. places orders directly from Japan.
Audiodharma cooker was 800 ish
Manley skipjack was 600 (used)
Connectors, various other items complete the rest.
Purty simple mathematics you see.
ONWARD!
Lot's of hand waving going on in this thread... let's all calm down and try to stay on topic.
Using a hair dryer to heat the Eichmanns before plugging them in for the first time will ease some of the tension and makes them easier to remove, and if one remembers to always twist the connectors to the right when removing them from your components, it will ensure that the body doesn't separate from the headshell.
I also don't bother screwing the set-screw into the wires, and in fact I just remove the screw... the resulting wire/connecter connection might not be as robust as a regular molded set of interconnects, but as long as one doesn't tug directly on the wires there shouldn't be any problem - at least I haven't had a problem during the six years that I've been using the Eichmanns.
I agree completely. If you purchase cabling like Beldin or other types which come ready to snip and then solder...the chances dramatically decrease with respect to shorting. But if thinner gauge solid core wire is used, then one mistake make be too many. Worse case scenario is that you have to redo the soldering.
Thanks
To totally muddy the waters, MIT courseware is freely available on the Web.
For what it's worth, I'd like to see some "theoretical" claim or explanation for why a certain part or component was chosen over something else. So far I've read a lot of rhetoric that doesn't really explain anything to me technically, and I see pics of cables and connectors in the middle of being soldered and assembled, and that's nice, but it doesn't tell me WHY something was done in relation to improving or attempting to improve sound.
Please! you said you wanted to show how to make certain cables that you designed, yet you seem to be starting a theoretical discussion. You should stick with your original premise. As has already been hinted by others posting, an open ended discussion of theories about cables won't get very far.
On the other hand, if this was a cable build and a series of A/B or A/B/C/D tests using the Slapjack (I see it can be used as an A/B/X box, and I'm not even sure if it's within the rules to mention that on this forum!), then still, go ahead and write up the whole thing with results.
To totally muddy the waters, MIT courseware is freely available on the Web.
For what it's worth, I'd like to see some "theoretical" claim or explanation for why a certain part or component was chosen over something else. So far I've read a lot of rhetoric that doesn't really explain anything to me technically, and I see pics of cables and connectors in the middle of being soldered and assembled, and that's nice, but it doesn't tell me WHY something was done in relation to improving or attempting to improve sound.
On the other hand, if this was a cable build and a series of A/B or A/B/C/D tests using the Slapjack (I see it can be used as an A/B/X box, and I'm not even sure if it's within the rules to mention that on this forum!), then still, go ahead and write up the whole thing with results.
I'm with you completely. I do plan on getting to the technicalities eventually. I want to make sure that this is not misunderstood as a "white paper" on technical aspects. Much of this is subjective obviously. But, there are points that will be made about why I chose a certain metal, or manufacturing process, and to some extent why certain materials are chosen over others for shielding etc.
The problem, as I am working on the blog is that I don't like the format of the "blog". It stinks. You cant update crapola...only edit in more info. AND I just realized that you cant have more than 10 pics. BULLSCHLAGEN!!!!
I am thinking of moving this whole thing to a new thread.
I JUST WANT THIS THING TO BE COHERENT!!!!!!!
Any suggestions from the crue?
Spiro
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First post;
I'm hooked on your thread already.
Me too, I have built a number of my own IC using other people's wire so this is right up my alley.. Can't wait to see your project details, given the "controversial" nature of the discussion I agree that a blog would allow you to share the details without a lot of noise degrading the SNR..
Sounds good to me.
Anyway, I just want to show peeps how to have more control in designing their own cables. Specifically the shielding. There is no need to go into detail about signal transduction through a wire and the phenomenon associated with it. That can be easily followed up with more reading by those individuals who want to further their knowledge about this topic.
HAPPY FATHERS DAY BTW AND EVERYTHING THAT GOES ALONG WITH IT!
Let's begin.
Research has lead me to the following basic conclusions :
1 - Choose the best material that will facilitate signal transfer.
a. Silver and copper is what I use. Choosing Ultra Pure Ohno Continues Cast Cu/Au wire over typical OFC wire was a no-brainer. The process utilized for manufacturing UPOCC wire involves SLOWLY drawing the metal to achieve a certain diameter wire. This process produces considerably larger Cu crystals (100X regularly drawn wire). The advantage is that there are substantially fewer gaps between the crystalline nature of the metal, therefore reducing the overall "gaps" that electrons have to "jump" between the crystals. "Ultra Pure" means that it is 99.9999999% (7N) free of artifacts.
----notes----
I do not find it necessary to scour for information 'proving" this phenomenon. Its a simple concept to grasp. Least resistive (best conducting) material, purest composition = best scenario for electron transfer. Period.
2 - Create an environment that will minimize interference of the signal.
b. The most typical interference that one may experience concerning audio applications (cabling) is EMI. This is usually stemming from power cords, power supplies located near signal carrying cabling. Radio frequency interference (RF) is not common, unless you live by a radio station or power lines. Seldom is the source of interference one is trying to trouble shoot from RFI. Read this...simple discussion. Electromagnetic interference - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Aluminum and/or copper shielding is used in many cables to help block EMI/RFI. Because copper shielding is used primarily to block RFI (due to specific wavelength characteristics), I choose to use only aluminum which is suitable for EMI blocking.
----notes----
Yes, there are many other kinds of interference, but these are the most common in our application. No further technical info is needed to understand these. Just clicky the linky.
more in a little
Simple things to keep in mind when choosing materials.
Solder. Get a good quality solder with as much silver content available. I use WBT 4% silver content solder. "Is nice" (as Borat would say).
Quick word about soldering. It is absolutely imperative that you make sure the conductor makes contact with the metal before soldering. This is not as easy as one might think. A floating wire in solder is by no means a good enough connection. If I could cold weld the connection...I would do it. As shown in my BLOB pic, I have managed direct contact throughout the entire positive well. The only duty the solder should have is to anchor the conductor...that's it.
Check my BLOB (blog) out to see the different connectors that I have use and some comments about their abilities.
Soldering irons don't need to be a trillion watts for cables connectors. 35 watt iron is good enough. Small tip.
Solder. Get a good quality solder with as much silver content available. I use WBT 4% silver content solder. "Is nice" (as Borat would say).
Quick word about soldering. It is absolutely imperative that you make sure the conductor makes contact with the metal before soldering. This is not as easy as one might think. A floating wire in solder is by no means a good enough connection. If I could cold weld the connection...I would do it. As shown in my BLOB pic, I have managed direct contact throughout the entire positive well. The only duty the solder should have is to anchor the conductor...that's it.
Check my BLOB (blog) out to see the different connectors that I have use and some comments about their abilities.
Soldering irons don't need to be a trillion watts for cables connectors. 35 watt iron is good enough. Small tip.
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Small comment...this is for those who feel the need to pick at things that are really not that important (usually looking for overblown thesis type scribble)...
I find it advantageous, when constructing cables (or any other electronics project) to have a picture of George Michael (yes, you know the one from Wham) FRAMED and hung directly across from my work table...eye level. I feel his happy, whimsical disposition to add a little "something" to the cables overall signature. It makes for a quite "Airy" sounding cable. FYI, I think it helps that he's Greek also.
I tried Boy George...but had dreadful concequences.
Feel free to discuss.
more in a few (not about George Michael).
I find it advantageous, when constructing cables (or any other electronics project) to have a picture of George Michael (yes, you know the one from Wham) FRAMED and hung directly across from my work table...eye level. I feel his happy, whimsical disposition to add a little "something" to the cables overall signature. It makes for a quite "Airy" sounding cable. FYI, I think it helps that he's Greek also.
I tried Boy George...but had dreadful concequences.
Feel free to discuss.
more in a few (not about George Michael).
Is there any proof that less resistance sounds better? If this was the case surely transistors would always sound better? What about anode resistors, grid stoppers etc?
Just above you said that lower resistance was better, but you are using aluminium here. I'm a bit confused about the difference between RFI and EMI for our purposes and indeed why the popular use of copper for one should discount it from the other..
The resistance parameter is only important from a technical standpoint, not acoustic. The goal is to transmit the source signals via the most efficient means. Less Resistance and pure formulation allows for the fastest, unadulterated pathway for the signal to take. Silver and copper provide the best conductivity from all other metals.
As far as the aluminum, it does not tie into the signal transfer process. (My bad for not making it clearer). It is used to surround the cotton dielectric (which I have not mentioned yet) so EMI from the surrounding environment does not introduce anomalies which deter from signal transduction. Actually, it's easier to rely on aluminium shielding since it provides enough adequate protection from interference. It is more readily available and cheap. Copper is usually utilized via a braided sheath configuration overlaying the conductor. It is very costly.
EMI/RFI is a problem faced during the operation of electronic equipment. It induces unwanted electromagnetic energy entering or emitting from a specific piece of electronic equipment, thereby causing interference. During normal operation, electronic equipment typically generate undesirable electromagnetic energy that can interfere with the operation of proximately located electronic equipment due to transmission by radiation and conduction. The electromagnetic energy can be of a wide range of wavelengths and frequencies. To minimize the problems, sources of undesirable electromagnetic energy may be shielded and electrically grounded. Sources of undesirable electromagnetic energy or RFI may be shielded and electrically grounded. EMI/RFI shielding is designed to prevent both ingress and egress of electromagnetic energy relative to a housing or other enclosure in which the electronic equipment is disposed. It is common practice to place equipment that emits EM Radiation, or which is sensitive to RFI within a shielded enclosure. EMI shielded enclosures are typically constructed of conductive materials that operate to reflect the radiation component of the EMI and to drain to electrical ground the conducted component of the EMI. As you know, aluminum and steel are the common materials used in most builds for these aforementioned principles.
Spiro
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Actually the shielding used in microwave satellite dish cables is pretty solid, I suspect whipping out the inner and popping in some twisted pair or twin screened through that would work wonders. Cheap as chips too
Ground the shield at one end obviously - possibly the sink side.
The only issue is whether the resultant cable would be too stiff, but I guess compared to some it would be fine.
As for internal wire - the insulator behaves like a dielectric so I guess that could have some effect - any figures on absolute capacitances and resistances of cables?
Ground the shield at one end obviously - possibly the sink side.
The only issue is whether the resultant cable would be too stiff, but I guess compared to some it would be fine.
As for internal wire - the insulator behaves like a dielectric so I guess that could have some effect - any figures on absolute capacitances and resistances of cables?
Actually the shielding used in microwave satellite dish cables is pretty solid, I suspect whipping out the inner and popping in some twisted pair or twin screened through that would work wonders. Cheap as chips too
Ground the shield at one end obviously - possibly the sink side.
The only issue is whether the resultant cable would be too stiff, but I guess compared to some it would be fine.
As for internal wire - the insulator behaves like a dielectric so I guess that could have some effect - any figures on absolute capacitances and resistances of cables?
The insulator in my cables is cotton. BUT, the diameter of the cotton is considerably larger than the 28 gauge (.32mm) conductor (1/10th) . So, in essence, the MAIN dielectric is air which is the best dielectric. There is minimal contact with the cotton. Tara labs sells their high end interconnects which assert that their conductor is suspended in an air vacuum environment. They cost only 7000.00 dollars +/- a few thousand...I don't remember exactly....and don't really WANT to remember. I will try to measure those values out of curiosity and post at a later time.
Most 75 Ohm TV aerial cable has that style - the central copper conductor suspended in a continuous spider with mostly air.
For interconnects I suspect TV (or better quality satellite) would be hard to beat for low capacitance and good shielding, but line stuff in general is shielded perfectly anyway, the odd tonearm being an exception is one really needs balanced screened and shielded for those.
I did try some thin teflon 50 ohm cable as interconnects once, just soldered to some regular gold plated phonos. It sounded really good - but there again so did all my other ones
. Nice wire though!Where shielding makes the difference is for speaker cables, as these act as antennas into the amplifier via the feedback circuits. Capacitance for speaker cables should be irrelevant so here the key would be how to shield the bigger wires well. Perhaps getting some tin foil and wrapping the wire and stuffing it down some heatshrink, or perhaps just add a zobel network.
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