I have a general question about this Board..That causes it to Cut-Out at High Levels?...Too much Input, or Too much Load to Drive? I drive mine with a Cmoy PreAmp and 31.5V 3.17A HP SMPS into (4) 8 Ohm Speakers and it Sounds Great...But, sometimes..Mostly listening to Zep on the TT it will Mute and I have to turn it's PS Off and On and it will resume playing Loud and Proud...I have the Board's Input Pots set on Low..Would it be better if I set them at Med. or High and not turn up the PreAmp as much? Or, is it that it wants more than 3 Amps?
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4 speakers
You are using 4 speakers? The amp or power supply may be cutting out on protection. You can buy another amp and power supply so that each pair of speakers can have it's own.
Hey all, I've finally finished by Sure TK2050 powered speakers, and they sound great! Here's a few pics, I've gone for function over form!
A quick test using my mp3 player:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
I've only managed to listen to one at a time so far, as I still need to build a few XLR cables, but during the test using my Sansa Clip (with a flac file with HP and LP filters already applied) as a souce, they both sound good. Nice dynamics and also much cleaner bass compared to the previous LM3886 based amp that originally came with the speakers.
Once I get my XLR cables made and modded my DCX2496 I should be able to hear them in all their glory.
I'd like to say thanks to everyone in this thread, I wouldn't have managed to get things sounding so good without the great info contained in this thread.
Hello,
Interesting looking build you have there, but quite cool I must say. I browsed through the thread, but I couldn't see an answer to my inquiry, so I shall just ask myself. Apologies if it was mentioned somewhere that I overlooked.
How did you wire the XLR jacks to the Sure?
I'm also interested in using 4 channels of Sure Tripath amplification, fed directly from a Behringer DCX2496, and while I was originally just going to buy some XLR to RCA cables, I decided I could just build my amp with XLR inputs.
Xlr
Wire pin 1 to ground, Pin 2 to your input cap, pin 3 can be terminated with a 22k resistor to pin 1 to balance the cable. You may also want to experiment with a fixed attenuator at the amp as the DCX has way too high an output level. I would start with -12db. Once you get this right, you will be able to use the DCX with it's digital input and use digital volume control. Add 4k resistors in series with pins 2 and 3 and then another set of resistors from the output of the 4k resistors to pin 1 to form the pad. Start with 1.3k for the shunt resistors. increase or decrease from there to get the right listening level for your speakers with the digital in and to just keep from peaking the the analog input meters when the system is playing at your loudest listening level. If you have one driver that is much more efficient than the other, you can also use different pads for the tweeters and woofers to get them to a closer match so you don't have to use so much digital attenuation in the crossover of the louder driver.
If you want to use balanced cables;
Wire pin 1 to ground, Pin 2 to your input cap, pin 3 can be terminated with a 22k resistor to pin 1 to balance the cable. You may also want to experiment with a fixed attenuator at the amp as the DCX has way too high an output level. I would start with -12db. Once you get this right, you will be able to use the DCX with it's digital input and use digital volume control. Add 4k resistors in series with pins 2 and 3 and then another set of resistors from the output of the 4k resistors to pin 1 to form the pad. Start with 1.3k for the shunt resistors. increase or decrease from there to get the right listening level for your speakers with the digital in and to just keep from peaking the the analog input meters when the system is playing at your loudest listening level. If you have one driver that is much more efficient than the other, you can also use different pads for the tweeters and woofers to get them to a closer match so you don't have to use so much digital attenuation in the crossover of the louder driver.
I did the 2.2uF input cap + 50k potentiometer mod. Used 1% tolerance poly-metal caps.
Removed the parts marked by audio1st and was wondering why it wasn't working, then realized I was an idiot and needed to close the circuit for where the stock input caps used to be.
I don't really notice much improvement in sound but the volume control is handy.
Removed the parts marked by audio1st and was wondering why it wasn't working, then realized I was an idiot and needed to close the circuit for where the stock input caps used to be.
I don't really notice much improvement in sound but the volume control is handy.
either
Btw, my trusty vincent sv-236 wiped the floor with tripath
With what Tripath was that?
I've done some comparing myself (understatement...) in the past and Tripath certainly came out way on top!Clash of some Titans
You can have a marvellous chipset (engine), but in the end it's the implementation that counts most...
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1. Remove input suppressors (underside of the board, look like smd diodes)
2. Replace input caps (audio1st has a great tutorial picture)
3. Use 32v
4. Remove the fan and replace the heatsink with a zm-47j northbridge cooler
5. Replace output filter, some wurth xxl coils fit right in the original space and sound great, search this thread for wurth xxl to find them
6. Replace buffer caps
7. Replace output caps
Number 1 is most important, while number 7 is least.
Might be not in (complete) correct order, but if you get to 5, you might as well do 6 and 7.
2. Replace input caps (audio1st has a great tutorial picture)
3. Use 32v
4. Remove the fan and replace the heatsink with a zm-47j northbridge cooler
5. Replace output filter, some wurth xxl coils fit right in the original space and sound great, search this thread for wurth xxl to find them
6. Replace buffer caps
7. Replace output caps
Number 1 is most important, while number 7 is least.
Might be not in (complete) correct order, but if you get to 5, you might as well do 6 and 7.
Thanks!
I already did audio1st mod, replaced C10/14 with Wima MKS 0.1uF, C9/11 with Panasonic FC 1000uF 63V (should I put more??), C3/4 with Panasonic FC 100uF 63V and removed R14/34.
I'm also considering replacing C1 and C2 with Wima MKS 0.1uF 63V and already ordered Arjen's T68/2 10uH coils.
I already did audio1st mod, replaced C10/14 with Wima MKS 0.1uF, C9/11 with Panasonic FC 1000uF 63V (should I put more??), C3/4 with Panasonic FC 100uF 63V and removed R14/34.
I'm also considering replacing C1 and C2 with Wima MKS 0.1uF 63V and already ordered Arjen's T68/2 10uH coils.
How did you remove all the white rubbery TIM from the tp2050 chips? I had to use a hair dryer to heat up the heatsink until it was burning hot before I could pull it off, but the residue is still there
I have a Zalman NB-47J ready to replace it
I would recommend a metal oxide paste instead of metal containing paste. With Arctic Silver I have repeatedly seen problems because in time it dripped on the chip pins and because it is conductive (in whatever degree) it caused pins to short out...
In fact you don't, it's Ethyl alcohol which is drinkable, sure
... But very very very strong...This type of alcohol comes from the medical industry, meant to clean wounds and stuff, if it were toxic like Methyl alcohol this would never be allowed in the medical industry....
In fact you don't, it's Ethyl alcohol which is drinkable, sure
This type of alcohol comes from the medical industry, meant to clean wounds and stuff, if it were toxic like Methyl alcohol this would never be allowed in the medical industry....
In the States isopropyl alcohol (propan-2-ol) is commonly used for this purpose. It is NOT the same as ethyl alcohol and will poison you and possibly even kill you if you drink it (turns into acetone in your liver...)
It's cheaper to buy a 1L container of 95% isopropyl than it is to buy a 1L container of 95% ethanol. Trust me on that one
Scott,
I wrote to Sure Electornics about your situation and got the following reply:
"Thanks a lot for your letter.
According to our past test, there is no phenomenon of mutual interference among the amplifier boards when powered by one power supply. But a certain effect of EMI exists due to the following 650 KHz high frequency amplifying signal; even though amplifying signal was removed by LC Low Pass Filter.
And we doubt that it is the overlarge ripple wave of the power supply itself which lead to the interference. It is suggested that you should connect the two amplifier board respectively to avoid the interference."
I then asked an electrical engineer I knew and he said: "if output impedance of power supply was high, you might get some of the ripple of one mixing with other one , say 651 Khz mixing with 650 to give 1 Khz tone. SInce switch freqs are free running, the difference could be anything.
Use separate plus and minus from each amp to power supply and not daisy chained through each amp."
Perhaps this was the issue?
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